HELP! So many problems.

[THE_FATTIE]

After fixing the coolant flange on the driver side of the engine and stopping the leak. I have a slow coolant loss problem. I figured I would try some stop leak to see if it helped. Some time later I noticed a brown goo inside my oil cap. I also noticed that when I take my oil cap off with the engine running positive pressure seems to come out, in time with the engine. I also am still losing coolant, very slowly. While running around doing errands the hot coolant light came on and I pulled over. I attempted to let it cool off, but being alone in the car with a 10 month old baby on the side of the interstate may have hastened my responce. I managed to break my hood latch, and get to an exit where I could be safer, and had the car towed home. I tried to refil the coolant but after almost 2 gallons of coolant eneded up on the driveway I figured something was up. I would leave the cap off and let it run for a while and slowly add more until it got close to full. I then shut the car off and let the level go down. It always emptied the resivour, and my heat never worked. I noticed after a while that my coolant would violently boil over when the engine cold light would go off. and after only moments the hot light would come on.

All of that led me to do a water pump/timing belt job, and I figured while I was there I would check the head gasket. I have most of the engine apart now, the exhaust bolts are a pain and so far 3 of the 6 have just snapped off, but that is not my primary concern. The harmonic ballancer bolts are a PITA. I managed to get one out but 3 of the 4 stripped and Im at a loss for what to do next. Any help would be appreciated and any questions will be answered to help you help me.

I dont want to lose my bug lol

Before I forget its a 98 new beetle, 2 liter gas, auto trans, 125k and the current timing belt is cracked pretty bad. Im surprised it has not snapped yet.

[pencilneck]

Wow, where to start. OK, so the bolts on the crank pulley. When I had issues with those, I used my zip gun and this accessory:



Different tool companies sell them, this is the Matco MC88. You put it in your zip gun and fit a 3/8" drive socket (I used odd torx bits). Use the zip gun to drive the torx into the stripped out 6mm opening while using a 19mm wrench to turn it. This will crack loose bolts like gangbusters.... a must have tool. Plus it is noisy as f#%k!

Did you ever do a coolant pressure test? Coolant flow test? What kind of coolant were you putting into the car? If it wasn't pink G12 then you'll need to really flush the coolant system out.

[jfoj]

I believe the term zip gun=air chisel?

First time I have heard the term zip gun used!

[AceJay]

Originally Posted by pencilneck

If it wasn't pink G12 then you'll need to really flush the coolant system out.

Really? I can't use this? Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant - Choose your region | Prestone®

Maybe that's why I'm going through a bottle every 10 days...

[Oh Randi]

Originally Posted by AceJay

Really? I can't use this? Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant - Choose your region | Prestone®

Maybe that's why I'm going through a bottle every 10 days...

Uh, yeah... that's bad. Mixing coolant will make it gel and clog up. Or corrode the aluminum. Either way, no bueno.. you'll need a coolant flush ASAP at the very least..

[Jeff2]

Originally Posted by AceJay

Really? I can't use this? Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant - Choose your region | Prestone®

Maybe that's why I'm going through a bottle every 10 days...

I'd personally stick with the VW coolant (as has already been said, it's best to never mix it with any other coolant type). If you've mixed them, you need to flush the system to get all the gunk out before filling it again.

That said, if you're losing a bottle of coolant every 10 days, you've got bigger problems that what type of coolant you should be using. You obviously have a leak somewhere. Check the obvious first. Is there coolant dripping from anywhere on the engine either when the car sits or when the car is running?

[IndyTom]

So did you already replace the timing belt, tensioner, water pump etc?
And it's still leaking coolant?
Have you done a compression or leak down test to see if you head gasket has been compromised?
Is there coolant in the cabin? Perhaps the heater core went belly up?
More info is required.

[AceJay]

Originally Posted by Jeff2

I'd personally stick with the VW coolant (as has already been said, it's best to never mix it with any other coolant type). If you've mixed them, you need to flush the system to get all the gunk out before filling it again.

That said, if you're losing a bottle of coolant every 10 days, you've got bigger problems that what type of coolant you should be using. You obviously have a leak somewhere. Check the obvious first. Is there coolant dripping from anywhere on the engine either when the car sits or when the car is running?

Originally Posted by Oh Randi

Uh, yeah... that's bad. Mixing coolant will make it gel and clog up. Or corrode the aluminum. Either way, no bueno.. you'll need a coolant flush ASAP at the very least..

Well, I never knew that I had to use VW coolant only. Got it cleaned and flushed. I had a cracked hose that I couldn't see behind the engine and and the dealer replaced it, and threw in 2 jugs of coolant too!

I wrote "VW coolant only" on the cap :P

[THE_FATTIE]

Some updates.

I had some things to take care of and had to drop internet for a while, but now Im back.

I recently got a coolant pressure tester, but with the snow and cold it has not been used yet. The leak itself baffles me. There was a period of about a month when I had to add coolant every other day as it would vanish. And then suddenly it stopped. I went almost 3 weeks without having to add any. Then it started again. I replaced the upper hose and the two hose clamps and it seems to have stopped, but then about 1 time every 2 months Ill have to add a bit of coolant.

I had a CEL for p1128, and I replaced my MAF about 150 miles ago and the light has not come back. And just from that my mileage jumped from 17 to about 22mpg.

I also have some random needs. I need a new hood latch, mine grenadded. Its really in pieces and I have to use a screwdriver and a small crow bar to get my hood open. Its rather frustrating. The hood itself will stay put when closed, but doing anything under the hood becomes a chore.

I also need a new dipstick tube. A shop replaced the crank sensor a while back and I just found out that they broke the tube and replaced it with a section of rubber hose. I have no idea if my oil level is right. And to top it off I think the oil filter housing/coolant block is leaking oil.

I recently had to replace the headlights as one burnt out, and with my luck if I only replaced one the other would have the next day

While I was doing it I noticed the driver side does not want to go in right and sit in place. The plastic rails and pegs on the housing itself seem to be banged up and in rough shape so I was thinking about getting aftermarket replacements. Any suggestions?

I have an exhaust leak in the resonatior I think. Its a large tube before the muffler right almost even with the back of the doors under the car. Whats the best replacement option?

And my final thoughts for tonight, Im fairly certain that my driver side wheel bearing is bad. I hear it at about 25-30mph and above. The sound itself is almost like hearing a second engine, but its definately tied to wheel speed and not engine speed. The sound changes slightly on left turns and almost dissappears completly on right turns.

After all these repairs the bug should be tip top and ready to go back to my mom. And I can get my own bug and start on a project that I think will be awesome. But Ill make a thread on that when time/money allows.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Casey

[Oh Randi]

Originally Posted by THE_FATTIE

Some updates.

I had some things to take care of and had to drop internet for a while, but now Im back.

I recently got a coolant pressure tester, but with the snow and cold it has not been used yet. The leak itself baffles me. There was a period of about a month when I had to add coolant every other day as it would vanish. And then suddenly it stopped. I went almost 3 weeks without having to add any. Then it started again. I replaced the upper hose and the two hose clamps and it seems to have stopped, but then about 1 time every 2 months Ill have to add a bit of coolant.

I had a CEL for p1128, and I replaced my MAF about 150 miles ago and the light has not come back. And just from that my mileage jumped from 17 to about 22mpg.

I also have some random needs. I need a new hood latch, mine grenadded. Its really in pieces and I have to use a screwdriver and a small crow bar to get my hood open. Its rather frustrating. The hood itself will stay put when closed, but doing anything under the hood becomes a chore.

I also need a new dipstick tube. A shop replaced the crank sensor a while back and I just found out that they broke the tube and replaced it with a section of rubber hose. I have no idea if my oil level is right. And to top it off I think the oil filter housing/coolant block is leaking oil.

I recently had to replace the headlights as one burnt out, and with my luck if I only replaced one the other would have the next day

While I was doing it I noticed the driver side does not want to go in right and sit in place. The plastic rails and pegs on the housing itself seem to be banged up and in rough shape so I was thinking about getting aftermarket replacements. Any suggestions?

I have an exhaust leak in the resonatior I think. Its a large tube before the muffler right almost even with the back of the doors under the car. Whats the best replacement option?

And my final thoughts for tonight, Im fairly certain that my driver side wheel bearing is bad. I hear it at about 25-30mph and above. The sound itself is almost like hearing a second engine, but its definately tied to wheel speed and not engine speed. The sound changes slightly on left turns and almost dissappears completly on right turns.

After all these repairs the bug should be tip top and ready to go back to my mom. And I can get my own bug and start on a project that I think will be awesome. But Ill make a thread on that when time/money allows.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Casey

You should be fine to get a headlight off ebay.. I believe they're around $150 for a set aftermarket.

[red99]

Originally Posted by THE_FATTIE

I have an exhaust leak in the resonatior I think. Its a large tube before the muffler right almost even with the back of the doors under the car. Whats the best replacement option?

This is called the "front" or "center" muffler. It can be replaced separately. The original exhaust is one piece, so you'll have to cut the pipe between the front and rear mufflers. There is also a special coupling part (similar to the one used to join the catalytic converter to the front muffler) that will be needed to join the pipes together at the new cut.

It can also be replaced with a pipe section without a muffler that was used on the TDI models, I believe.

[THE_FATTIE]

Originally Posted by red99

This is called the "front" or "center" muffler. It can be replaced separately. The original exhaust is one piece, so you'll have to cut the pipe between the front and rear mufflers. There is also a special coupling part (similar to the one used to join the catalytic converter to the front muffler) that will be needed to join the pipes together at the new cut.

It can also be replaced with a pipe section without a muffler that was used on the TDI models, I believe.

I like the TDI pipe option, is there a walkthrough somewhere or is it pretty straight forward?

[red99]

It's not too bad. I did mine a couple years ago. You need to cut the existing single piece exhaust and add a new coupler. I removed the whole exhaust system and laid the new center muffler on top of the old one to find the right place to make the cut. See this:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals - Golf Mk4 - Silencer with mountings