Yellow gunk on oil cap. - NewBeetle.org Forums
NewBeetle.org Forums
Go Back   NewBeetle.org Home > NewBeetle.org Forums > Discussion - Technical > 2.0 Liter Gas

2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine.

NewBeetle.org is the premier Volkswagen Beetle Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2006, 07:57 PM
Toad's Avatar
big poster turned lurker.
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Mableton, GA, USA
Car: Miss Amanda; RIP Chester & Freddy
Default Yellow gunk on oil cap.

So I know this has been brought up before on the old org, but i just want to know, what causes this gunk and how do I stop it from forming?
Attached Images/Files
 
__________________
Amanda Audi - Freddy Fox - Chester Bug | LULZ | FIP - H*R - My Videos
Oops, you think I'm in love, that I'm sent from above.... I'm not that innocent!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2006, 08:48 PM
Mazzzja's Avatar
Foreign Exchange Orger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Zwanenburg, Netherlands
Car: 2001 Batik Blue ~ 2.0l, Bugje
Default

Yeah, I'm curious about that too.
Do you also use longlife oil?
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 01:53 AM
180 Degrees out of faze
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Central Coast, CA,
Car: 98 TDI NB.
Default

What is it? That stuff is just condensed water that has mixed with motor oil. This usually only happenes when the weather turns cold.

How did it get there? Water is a by-product of combustion that has gone past the piston rings.

How can I get rid of it? Get the motor hot while driving for a while. About 25 miles of stop-and-go driving or about 60 miles of highway driving. The oil will then get hot enough to drive off the water.

Can it be prevented? With short trips where the motor never gets up to full temp (not just the coolant temp), NO.

Can something be done to make this less of a problem? Use a high quality synthetic oil. I have used Mobil-1, Red Line, Torco, Neo, Esso, and Amsoil with good results. To stop an argument, yes there are other synthetic oils out there that should work. Find one that you like, and use it.
__________________
I have been accused of many things, sane is not one of them.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 03:02 AM
BlackBug's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
LocustGroved, VA, USA
Car: 99 GLX 2.0
Default

Nice hannaco .
My words exactly....
__________________
It's not WHAT you drive.
It's HOW you drive it!
99 GLX Black 2.0 - 15.992
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 03:31 AM
Toad's Avatar
big poster turned lurker.
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Mableton, GA, USA
Car: Miss Amanda; RIP Chester & Freddy
Default

It really takes that long to heat the oil up? damn. And that was with mobil 1.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 02:13 PM
rcyRegistered Member rcy is offline
Save a horse, ride a....
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Car: 2000 GLS, silver arrow
Default

You could also try replacing the seals in the oil filler cap, and the one in the oil filler neck (the thing you screw the cap onto - just turn it (left or right I can't remember) and it comes off). These seals get brittle over time from the heat and don't seal well. When they don't seal they allow air (cold air in the winter) into the area of the neck/cap and the cold air causes condensation. When the seals crap out, they also allow oil to seep out and dirty up your engine - I had this with the lower seal especially.

Still, getting the oil hot enough to burn off moisture is probably all you need to do.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 07:52 PM
Mazzzja's Avatar
Foreign Exchange Orger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Zwanenburg, Netherlands
Car: 2001 Batik Blue ~ 2.0l, Bugje
Default

With the short distances I drive (approx. 12kms to work, one way) I won't be able to get rid of the gunk
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 08:00 PM
noR's Avatar
noRAdministrator noR is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Jackson, MS, USA
Car: 2000 GLX Tekno-Blue/Grey 1.8t 5-spd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazzzja
With the short distances I drive (approx. 12kms to work, one way) I won't be able to get rid of the gunk
Maybe not, but you can still clean off the cap & try to clear out the residue.
__________________
noR | me | Phrog
southern fried dubs - "we like it crispy"
PHROG
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:48 AM
rcyRegistered Member rcy is offline
Save a horse, ride a....
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Car: 2000 GLS, silver arrow
Default

Just had a closer look at your picture and I can tell you that your seal is toast. See the brown burned look to it (as opposed to the original pukey green colour)? I can almost guarantee that the lower seal in the filler neck will be the same. The new seals I put in are black and were much more flexible than my old seals. Just as an aside, it was cheaper to buy two new oil caps (which include the seal) than it was to buy two seals by themselves...go figure.

Nice Magnecor wires btw - I have the same ones...
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2006, 05:25 AM
Toad's Avatar
big poster turned lurker.
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Mableton, GA, USA
Car: Miss Amanda; RIP Chester & Freddy
Default

so, to remove the filler neck, i have to unhook all those hoses clamped to it and just twist it off like the oil cap to get to the bottom seal.?

thanks for noticeing the magnecor's, those were a really easy install to do. I'm taking baby steps in backyard car maintnence. And the less mechanical it is, the easier it seems.
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:22 PM
rcyRegistered Member rcy is offline
Save a horse, ride a....
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Car: 2000 GLS, silver arrow
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad
so, to remove the filler neck, i have to unhook all those hoses clamped to it and just twist it off like the oil cap to get to the bottom seal.?

thanks for noticeing the magnecor's, those were a really easy install to do. I'm taking baby steps in backyard car maintnence. And the less mechanical it is, the easier it seems.
IIRC, there's only the one big hose (this is your 'PCV' valve hose - not really a valve per se, but just a hose leading to the intake. Near the intake you'll see a round ring type thing with an electrical connector on it - this is a heater to prevent that end of the hose from freezing in cold weather. But I digress - I don't think I even removed the hose, just twisted the neck off with the hose on.

Anyway, with a new seal, my minor oil seepage where the neck meets the valve cover stopped, and just to give a tighter seal at the CAP end, I left the old green seal in and put the new rubber one on top of the old one.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2006, 04:19 AM
HudsonValleyVDub's Avatar
Member Sponsor
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Hudson Valley Area, NY, USA
Car: Techno Blue 01 GLS 5 spd
Default

Thanks! This thread just saved me a bunch of worry! I just changed my oil and saw that crud under my cap! Scared the crap outta me! I thought I blew a head gasket or something...although the oil itself was normal looking. I'll be replacing my cap...thanks again!
__________________
- Joe


2001 Techno Blue Pearl 5 spd GLS. Heated leather, fog lights, power sunroof, alloy wheels.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2006, 05:23 AM
btb's Avatar
btbNewBeetle.org Member Sponsor btb is offline
Member Sponsor
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Boston, Mass, USA
Car: MY00 2.0SC, MY99 TDI
Default

It's the winter indicator...
__________________
AKA Beantownbug
=============================================
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 05:34 PM
Evanrude's Avatar
~Feel the Sting~
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Longview, WA, USA
Car: 2011 Ford Transit Connect
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcy
IIRC, there's only the one big hose (this is your 'PCV' valve hose - not really a valve per se, but just a hose leading to the intake. Near the intake you'll see a round ring type thing with an electrical connector on it - this is a heater to prevent that end of the hose from freezing in cold weather. But I digress - I don't think I even removed the hose, just twisted the neck off with the hose on.

Anyway, with a new seal, my minor oil seepage where the neck meets the valve cover stopped, and just to give a tighter seal at the CAP end, I left the old green seal in and put the new rubber one on top of the old one.
Random question, about what is the approximate price to replace these 2 seals ( or to get a new cap with a seal and then a new seal for the bottom of the neck?) ? Thanks!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS : 01 Yellow Sport snekeptp Market Place Archives 18 04-20-2006 02:03 AM
WNAB911 - '98 Yellow NB WNAB911 Photos: New Beetles 29 01-18-2006 06:53 PM
Yellow 00 GLI in Fresno Hammer Market Place Archives 0 12-06-2005 07:24 PM
How about Red and Yellow together slugo Miscellaneous Hoo-Ha Archive 7 12-01-2005 12:53 AM
Interior yellow platic walls...from yellow to black? help!!!!!!!!! crazi_daisy Paint and Body 2 10-24-2005 11:40 PM

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:47 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2