Brake Fluid Flush / Change - Where is a How-To

[phoenix_iii]

I have yet to see a how-to on this for the NB. I would hope it hasn't changed between MK3 and MK4 (98-2000, 2000-end, right?). Anyone have a walkthrough or areas of concern when doing this? Pics would help, but detailed text is fine too, looking to do this this weekend, will have extra help and already have the fluid. =)

p3

[bugasm99]

I will look for the write-up i used. The hardest part is filling the resevoir if you do it the old fashioned pedal way. The fluid resevoir is tucked undo the rain tray behind the intake pipe and can make it a little tricky to get to.

also, if you have a manual the clutch slave cylinder runs off the same fluid so you should plan to bleed the clutch at the same time.

[phoenix_iii]

Thanks 99, no it's an automatic. =)

[noR]

It's the same normal method used on most cars.

It's a bit different to bleed the ABS system, but that's not usually necessary either.

Sorry this isn't detailed, but here's the quick & dirty:

Do them in the order of farthest to closest. (RR, LR, RF, LF)

use a length of vacuum line and a clear container to see what what's coming out. Never let the vacum line's tip come out of the liquid (exposed to air).

Open resevoir & fill to top, close resevoir. Pump up the pedal until it pushes back hard, and hold. Open bleeder screw, when pressure is almost out, close it, but don't let it fully go out.

Helps to yell back and forth between yourself and the help.
Screw: Done.
Driver: (pump then hold) Holding.
Screw operator opens screw, driver feels the pedal dropping, right before the pedal hits bottom driver yells "Close".

... rinse and repeat, and repeat, and repeat.


If you have plenty of extra help, take some pics & we can make it into a how-to thread w/better directions. Toolsizes, etc.

[phoenix_iii]

I can take pics and make a how to.

However, I need to go through the directions again with a bit more clarity...

1) I won't need to touch the ABS system, right? Don't plan to, don't want to.

2)Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front, correct?

3) Where should I get the vacuum line? Autozone or similar?

4) Clear container like a jelly jar (empty and clean now), with clean Dot3 maybe two inches in it to keep the hose in as to not introduce air.

5)How obvious will it be to see the bleeders for the brakes? Never done a brake job before. Do the ABS lines run in there too? Don't want to pick the wrong one, is that even possible? What should I be looking for?

6) Need to clarify this..
"Open resevoir & fill to top, close resevoir. Pump up the pedal until it pushes back hard, and hold. Open bleeder screw, when pressure is almost out, close it, but don't let it fully go out.

Helps to yell back and forth between yourself and the help.
Screw: Done.
Driver: (pump then hold) Holding.
Screw operator opens screw, driver feels the pedal dropping, right before the pedal hits bottom driver yells "Close".
"
Can you explain the above again, in a little more detail? I think I get it but want to make sure.

Thank you!

[phoenix_iii]

Brake system, bleeding without pressure bleeder


Connect hose from bleeder bottle to brake at each wheel using sequence.
Pump brake pedal several times and then hold pedal down.
Open bleeder screw.
Close bleeder screw.
CAUTION! The brake fluid level in the reservoir must not fall below the MIN mark during bleeding.



Release brake pedal.
Repeat operation until brake fluid flows without air bubbles.


Umm, it says
Brake Fluid Type

Use only brake fluid that meets SAE specifications J 1703 and conforms to Federal Motor Vehicle Standards 116. DOT 4

Dot4? I thought it used Dot3... Anyone know?

[bugasm99]

*you don't need to "flush" the ABS as it shared fluid and will technically flush itself.

*When you fill the resevoir, leave the cap off the whole time. IF you screw the cap back on it will creat a vacuum and you will get no more fluid out after the first 1-2 pumps. Just be sure to keep topping off the resevoir as you do not want it to suck in any air.

*Use 1/4 ID clear tubing so you can see the fluid color and bubbles and know when to stop bleeding. I picked up a length at home depot, you can get it at lowes, sears, any major tool/ lawn care place.

* you can use any clear jar, just make sure you have enough room to put fluid in to start, and then room for the expelled fluid.

[phoenix_iii]

Originally Posted by bugasm99

*you don't need to "flush" the ABS as it shared fluid and will technically flush itself.



* you can use any clear jar, just make sure you have enough room to put fluid in to start, and then room for the expelled fluid.

How much fluid comes out? How much replacement fluid will I need, including needing to put some in the jar to begin with.

[noR]

1Ltr. maybe? Really more like 2/3 of a liter.

The instructions you posted look right.
DOT4 fluid in NB's.

[noR]

Each bleeder screw has a plastic cap on it. They're very obvious. They're ontop of the caliper (inside edge).

If you have the car on ramps or jacked up just a smidge you don't even have to remove the wheels; but it makes it easier for the fronts.

[phoenix_iii]

I was just at autozone to trade my Dot3 (super duty dot3) for Dot 4, but their computer (they said Autozone bought Alldata) says Dot 3 or Dot 4. Dot 4 for higher temps/super performance brakes (cross slotted and drilled rotors type heat), but Dot 3 was fine (comp even said 3 or 4) for normal (she has plain vented discs) brakes.

I picked up 2ft of 1/4 and 2ft of 5/16 of clear hose at Sears Hardware. =)

[noR]

Yeah, but how effective those 'suck the oil out the top' devices are has always seemed a very viable question.

Nothin' wrong w/it for sure, but I know I wouldn't use those devices.

[phoenix_iii]

As long as it doesn't collapse the line (if it sucks) or blow the hose (connection) if it blows....

[bugasm99]

I have only had minimal experience with bleeders since I prefered the old fashion method, but what I have found is that a pressure bleeder will work much better then a vacuum bleeder.

[noR]

Originally Posted by phoenix_iii

As long as it doesn't collapse the line (if it sucks) or blow the hose (connection) if it blows....

Temporary insanity; I was thinkin' oil, and not brake fluid. :P

[noR]

wow. Y'know, that doesn't sound bad at all now that you mention it.

[bugasm99]

i would be careful with the pressure. I have seen quite a few people blow the seals on the resevoir with a pressure bleeder. 10 psi should be fine.

[phoenix_iii]

IIRC alldata says don't go past 14psi/

[Porkchop]

BTW, in regards to worry about the "ABS lines" at the wheels - there is no issue. The only thing at the wheels are the electrical sensors that look for a wheel locking up - so it is an electrical wire, not a brake fluid hose/line.

The pulsing the ABS system does that prevents a wheel from locking is all done from the ABS control unit which is near the master cylinder in a central location.

[littlebugger]

I found this useful guide on how to flush brake fluid that is generally used on most cars. I think it will work with the New Beetle as well.