Electrical system died overnight

[Toad]

Is there anyone here that can help me diagnose, and hopefully fix my car asap?


The car was perfect last night, i went to start it today, and here's what happened:

ABS light stayted lit, brake light beeped and started blinking, so far, what i've tested that doesnt work: Horn, wipers, signals, heater fan, headlights, defroster, etc...

What does work is the interior lighitng and exterior side markers and brake lights, the high beams only come on when thier flashed, the emergeny blinkers, and the radio works.

The car runs and drives fine, no CEL. i have no clue what happened, this is my only car and i dont want to drive it anywhere.

[GatorBeetle]

That sounds like what happenned to me. After about a day and a half of this (I couldn't do anything else) he finally colapsed on the side of the road, nothing would work. It was the alternator. It might be that the symptoms are the same, but I can't say.

Also be aware, that once it dies, and they then have to replace it, and get the system back up and running, the throttle body had to be reset. Hope you have a Vag-Com or friendly Stealer-Ship nearby. I took mine to an independent shop, they do excellent work, but they didn't have the ability to reset the throttle, so I had to have a second tow to VW, and another $80 charge...still cheaper than going to the stealer in the first place...

[nagal]

Taking a shot in the dark here as I dont know a whole lot about the electrics of the NB but it might only be a fuse or a common ground that has come loose. You would need a good wiring diagram to see if any of those circuit share the same ground.

[GatorBeetle]

Another symptom in my car...after he "died" I hooked up one of those portable jump start packs...the car would run, until I took it off. There was basically nothing coming from the alternator, and the battery was toast.

[from Margaritaville...]

Not too sure but it seems from your description that what is working normally works when the ignition is off anyway, and what doesn't work generally is governed by the ignition being in the ON position. Perhaps your ignition switch has gone bad. Try jiggling it before or while turning it on...

[Toad]

Originally Posted by Alan Margosian

Not too sure but it seems from your description that what is working normally works when the ignition is off anyway, and what doesn't work generally is governed by the ignition being in the ON position. Perhaps your ignition switch has gone bad. Try jiggling it before or while turning it on...

That is a very probable thing. Just one question, how do i get to it?

[from Margaritaville...]

Toad, I'm leafing through the Bentley but I've gotta leave for work in a few minutes. I'm checking...

[Toad]

Originally Posted by Alan Margosian

Toad, I'm leafing through the Bentley but I've gotta leave for work in a few minutes. I'm checking...

I read thru my bentley, and i got to the switch. The electrical connector is melted a little (i snapped a few pics but they're all blurry), and i have no clue how to get the actual switch out.

[from Margaritaville...]

Toad, the process described in the Bentley manual is detailed on page 48-10 with the steering column stuff. In brief it states that after you disconnect the battery ground strap you must remove the airbag unit and steering wheel as well as the upper and lower steering column trim as described in a previous chapter (don't forget to have radio code handy). It does state that (after you remove all the aforementioned assemblies) the procedure is to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it to the ON position . Then, you would insert the end of a large paperclip or 3/64 drill bit into the tiny hole located at the 1 o'clock position on the cylinder. Then you can release the lock cylinder by pulling on the key while pushing in on the paperclip or drillbit . It states that you may then disconnect the harness connector from the ignition switch and remove the paint sealant from the threaded holes of the ignition switch securing screws (illustration shows that screws can be accessed after steering column trim).

(After looking at the instructions for removing the airbag and steering column, this looks like something for someone with a Bentley manual on hand and some tools (chisel, short-bladed screwdriver etc., steering wheel positioning required. Hmmmmmm...)

[Deserion]

To get the ignition switch out, you do NOT need to pull the airbag. I just completed this (again) last night on my '00 2.0L.

Once the battery is disconneced, pull the ignition wiring connector off. You'll see two small flat-blade screws somewhat embedded in the tube the switch sits in. Once those screws are out, you can slide out the switch. The other end is just the key lock cylinder, which operates the switch via a T-shaped rod that goes into the back of the switch. Don't need to remove that.

My wiring was melted, too, and I replaced it with some wires I obtained from 1st VW Parts (000-979-227). You'll also need a new socket (8D0-971-975). I bought a new switch from ECS (Mahle), but, believe it or not, that didn't work with the new wiring. I cleaned up the old switch, and it works wonderfully. I'm monitoring it for a while to see if it goes back to being melty.

-Des

[Toad]

Originally Posted by Deserion

To get the ignition switch out, you do NOT need to pull the airbag. I just completed this (again) last night on my '00 2.0L.

Once the battery is disconneced, pull the ignition wiring connector off. You'll see two small flat-blade screws somewhat embedded in the tube the switch sits in. Once those screws are out, you can slide out the switch. The other end is just the key lock cylinder, which operates the switch via a T-shaped rod that goes into the back of the switch. Don't need to remove that.

My wiring was melted, too, and I replaced it with some wires I obtained from 1st VW Parts (000-979-227). You'll also need a new socket (8D0-971-975). I bought a new switch from ECS (Mahle), but, believe it or not, that didn't work with the new wiring. I cleaned up the old switch, and it works wonderfully. I'm monitoring it for a while to see if it goes back to being melty.

-Des

Why did you have to replace your switch? I really dont even know if this will fix it, i really hope so. That wire part # is for one wire, right? How many do I need? I can't really afford to be car-less and this is pretty much killing me.

[Deserion]

Replacing the wiring will fix it. It loses connectivity, and therefore kills your accessories. Last time the switch was replaced, but they didn't fix the wiring. Anyway. I think the aftermarket switch I got is bum.

I fixed the wires, the wiring socket, cleaned the switch terminals. Car starts better than it did previously.

On the wire, yes, it's one. However, it does have two ends on it so you'd cut one end off and use that portion to replace the fubarred wire.



-Des

[Toad]

that's the same wire as mine. Mines not that bad tho, just the inner part of the plug is melted and burnt.

[Deserion]

Originally Posted by Toad

that's the same wire as mine. Mines not that bad tho, just the inner part of the plug is melted and burnt.

I changed both of the near wires for new ones. So far so good, everything works again.

-Des

[Toad]

Small update, my brother came home with a harness from a junkyard bug. I spliced it on and still nothing.

I'm gonna have to try a new switch.

[Deserion]

Originally Posted by Toad

Small update, my brother came home with a harness from a junkyard bug. I spliced it on and still nothing.

I'm gonna have to try a new switch.

Get an OEM switch, the Mahle (aftermarket) one I got was crap.

-Des

[Toad]

I had a super awesome idea that took me forever to think of.

With the new harness in place, i just made a small connection to engace the loop, and ta-da!! it worked. Now all i needa do is get a new switch.

I'm gonna have to run up to south shore vw monday to get one with my bsd discount. Cuz with the discount it's usually cheaper than goin thru ecs for oem stuff. (hint hint anyone in massachusetts should join bsd)

[DarthTheo]

Sounds like you'll be able to make it to Dust Off then?

[Toad]

If it's the same day as the Treffen, as it now currently is scheduled to be, I'm not gonna go to the dustoff.

[gilligan]

Originally Posted by Porkchop

Just out of curiosity - do you run your fog lights regularly (Toad or Des..).

I seem to vaguely remember from the old Org a discussion about running the fog lights burning out the ignition switch. Any truth to that, do you think?

I seems like I just saw something about if one fog burns out the fuse will smoke because the other fog gets to much power or something which is rediculous if you think about it considering the way electricity works. it was in a fog light thread around here somewhere. usually smoked wires is because the wire is carrying more current than it is rated for or the result of a direct short.