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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:36 AM
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the engine flush really does a good job. and the eao filter catches 98.7 percent of the crap. my oil should not need changed for another 5 months...

i love it, just sharing my experience!

much vw luv!

melanie
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwharrie View Post
Thanks for posting the DIY photos.
What I am really impressed with is you just hit 5000 miles on a three year old car!
(we just put 5000 miles on Shutter in less than two weeks!)
lol no kidding... i am at 24,404 in about a year.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2009, 07:43 PM
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Default Need these details for the 2.0 engine

Thanks for all these great details and close-up pictures. My wife's car is out of warranty so I'm not eager to return to our local, friendly (read: voracious) dealer for routine maintenance. Thanks to people on the web I was able to puzzle out the process of changing headlamp and taillight bulbs, what a joke that VW won't give directions.

Now I"m faced with an oil change. This is a 2005 new beetle convertible, 2.0 L engine. It has the metal shield below the engine that nearly completely blocks access. It looks to me like a conventional twist-on oil filter but I could be wrong about that. It has an oil plug with a recessed hole for a DIN8 hex key (if I measured right). No normal hexagonal bolt for a conventional socket wrench, no sir. The oil-extractor process seems like an interesting way of avoiding the pain. Any hints? TIA!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2009, 12:46 PM
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1. Buy a Pela extractor.
2. Buy a Haynes manual. Your car is old enough you don't need the expensive VW manual.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeetleHusband View Post
Thanks for all these great details and close-up pictures. My wife's car is out of warranty so I'm not eager to return to our local, friendly (read: voracious) dealer for routine maintenance. Thanks to people on the web I was able to puzzle out the process of changing headlamp and taillight bulbs, what a joke that VW won't give directions.

Now I"m faced with an oil change. This is a 2005 new beetle convertible, 2.0 L engine. It has the metal shield below the engine that nearly completely blocks access. It looks to me like a conventional twist-on oil filter but I could be wrong about that. It has an oil plug with a recessed hole for a DIN8 hex key (if I measured right). No normal hexagonal bolt for a conventional socket wrench, no sir. The oil-extractor process seems like an interesting way of avoiding the pain. Any hints? TIA!
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2010, 03:39 PM
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where do you buy the oil filter drain tool/tube?? At VW?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2010, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010BeetleConv View Post
where do you buy the oil filter drain tool/tube?? At VW?
I provided a link in post #2 where to buy it.

But here it is -> GermanAutoParts.com
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:48 PM
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Just did the oil change on my sons GFs 2.5 Jetta. What yutz is gonna pay $35 for a filter drain tube?????..USE A FLAT SCREWDRIVER!!!...it does the same thing!.FOR FREE!! And do it right, remove the actual drain plug. You won't get all the oil out otherwise. Quit all this mamby pamby "clean oil change" crap and CHANGE YOUR OIL! lol.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2011, 06:54 PM
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Default can't get the housing off...

First off thanks for all the pictures and steps, it was very helpful! BUT... I bought the 73mm cap, and its too small. It won't fit around my oil filter housing (2006 2.5). I bought the next size up, and that was too big! There's no space in there to use a wrench with self tightening metal bands, so... how the hell do I get this thing off lol?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2011, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonValleyVDub View Post
Just did the oil change on my sons GFs 2.5 Jetta. What yutz is gonna pay $35 for a filter drain tube?????..USE A FLAT SCREWDRIVER!!!...it does the same thing!.FOR FREE!! And do it right, remove the actual drain plug. You won't get all the oil out otherwise. Quit all this mamby pamby "clean oil change" crap and CHANGE YOUR OIL! lol.
When it is done correctly the oil extractors do indeed get all the oil out. You need to be patient and manipulate the tube towards the end of the extraction. I have had great success with my CC especially with it having a top mount filter. I never need to get under the car. I look forward to trying it with the Beetle.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonValleyVDub View Post
Just did the oil change on my sons GFs 2.5 Jetta. What yutz is gonna pay $35 for a filter drain tube?????..USE A FLAT SCREWDRIVER!!!...it does the same thing!.FOR FREE!! And do it right, remove the actual drain plug. You won't get all the oil out otherwise. Quit all this mamby pamby "clean oil change" crap and CHANGE YOUR OIL! lol.
Thanks for the tutorial. Agreed i just pushed with a 3/8s extension to drain a lil off and spun it off. got some oil on me but ur supposed to get dirty when u wprk on cars. I bought a 73mm 14 flat tool made by power tools from advanced auto but it was too small. my 2008 took a 76mm 14 flat tool. after a trip to advanced my grandad cam out and told me to see if his Harley Davidson filter tool would work and it was a perfect fit also
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:18 PM
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Default DIY: Oil Change for 2.5

Thanks for all the great pictures & information. Changed the oil on my wife's 08 NB with extractor. Everything went smooth until I attempted to remove oil filter canister. Ended up breaking the center out of the filer wrench(Advanced Auto B wrench ) had to take it back to the dealer where I bought it 10,000 miles ago for them to loosen the filter. Of course they said they had no problem loosening it. I asked them to please just put it back on hand tight.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:49 AM
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Sorry about opening an old thread but I had a few questions. Do I need an oil filter drain tool and fluid extractor? Or could I do the oil change like I would do on a Honda? I plan to do this at my school's autoshop where we have lifts since the dealer takes a long time. And for the filter, do I have to use a Volkswagen filter? Where could I get one of those? Or would Purolator be okay?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 12:40 PM
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I use the filter drain tool T40057 all metal type. Ebay and ECS Tuning has them. The tool makes filter draining very easy and little to no mess. If you plan to change you oil for a long time, buy the tool. Some folks just a screwdriver to push open the valve and catch the draining oil - sometimes a little messy.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:08 AM
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So would I really need the OEM filter? Or is Purolator fine?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2012, 03:37 AM
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Doesn't your beetle have a Filter cartridge rather than a conventional filter? That is the reason for the filter drain tool.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Filter/ES4739/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Filter/ES8616/
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2012, 08:01 AM
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Default Just did my first oil change today

And I have to say the filter canister drain tool is pretty slick. I got the expensive brass one off ebay for $25 and the guy through in an OEM filter, drain bolt and crush washer. I would imagine jamming a big screw driver in the valve works fine, but the drain tool works great. Of course I couldn't get the canister off. Whoever changed the oil last really torqued it down. The #1 reason I do my own oil changes, That sucker was on tight. Didn't have the right size wrench, tried a strap wrench but there's no room, finally had to resort to my toothed, slip joint filter remover. I was worried I would damage the canister (when I use it on spin on filters, it usually crushes them). Luckily, I got it off. Filled her up with 5W-30 Mobil 1 and now I'm good to go until probably next year.

Last edited by gforrest2; 04-09-2013 at 06:58 AM..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2012, 11:42 AM
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Lucky Dog!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2012, 06:28 PM
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I'm going to be a fly in the ointment and disagree about the oil extractors. It MIGHT get most of the oil out, but it will NOT get out all of the sediment that rests in the lowest parts of the engine. However, pulling the drain plug will help with that much more efficiently since the sudden rush of oil out of the drain pan hole will carry most of the sediment out. Further, and I will gladly concede that pulling the Panzer Armor plate from underneath is a PITA, it provides you with something that the extractor method cannot. By pulling the Panzer Armor, you get full unbridled visual access to the underside of your engine, enabling you to do a good thorough visual inspection of everything, from CV joints to hoses, to transmission seals and hoses. Better to do the inspection without the plate each oil change, especially since it's only every 10K miles. Just my 2 cents.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregu710 View Post
Better to do the inspection without the plate each oil change, especially since it's only every 10K miles.
Is this true? 10K MILES between oil changes??

Just got our first VW (06 NBC)and love it (of course)and I am learning lots on this forum, but 10K sounds like a lot of miles... (even more KMS)

TIA

XO.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2012, 05:09 PM
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Just curious. I am having difficulty finding a Oil filter cap that fits the Oil filter casing.

I went to Autozone and found that the part # 25401 is for a 76mm OEM B oil filter cap and not a 73mm like stated in this article.

I've bought a few oil filter caps but can't get one to fit this darn oil filter casing without slipping!

I just want to verify that 73mm is correct. Or is this ONLY the measurement inside cap?
Where 76mm would be the measurement to the outside of the cap?

Kinda want to change my oil, but last time I skipped changing the filter because I could not get it off! I really need to change it this time!
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