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| 2.5 Liter Gas Discussion area for the 2.5 liter gas engine. |
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Are there any special tools required to remove the struts or is it pretty much unbolt and change? Also can someone tell me what the differance in the engine codes BPR and BPS, thanks for any help.
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Make sure you replace these components as well.
2x Strut Mounts 2x Strut Bearings 2x Top Strut Nut 2x Strut Stretch Bolt/Pinch Nut 2x Shock Mounts 4x Shock Mount Bolts 2x Lower Shock Stretch Bolt/Pinch Nut Start with the drivers side front, doing the easy side first will allow you to see what needs to happen when doing the pass side. Disconnect the swaybar to let the LCA drop far enough to get the strut out. On the pass. side, loosen (dont remove) the two subframe bolts on that side and lower the subframe to get the strut out. The rears are super easy. Put some blue loctite on the threads of the shock rod when you put the mounts on. As far as tools, you'll need these Metalnerd tools: Part MN3424 - Strut Spreader Bit Part MN2122 - Specialty Double 21 & 22 mm Strut Nut Sockets. Certain deep offset wrenches may work in place of the Strut Nut Socket tool (but you'll have to gauge the torque you're putting on them), you just need to be able to counterhold the strut shaft with an allen wrench while you torque the upper nut. Metalnerd's tool allows you to use a torque wrench as long as you use it right. DO NOT USE impact tools when reassembling. Hand tools and torque wrench only, especially the top strut nut. Shops will often blast them on with an impact in an effort to not use the strut nut tool that allows them to counterhold the strut shaft with an allen wrench...the result of this is broken strut bearings. An alignment afterwards is recommended...but it doesn't have to happen immediately. I did my suspension (struts, shocks, VR6 springs and 2" lift) last fall and still have not got it aligned yet. Car tracks fine and tire wear isn't any worse than before. I need to get my tie rods replaced before it can be aligned. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND purchasing a paper Bentley manual if you do not already own one. Sometimes there are shortcuts around some of the procedures (like dropping the subframe instead of pulling the CV axle on the pass side for strut removal) but they are absolutely worth their weight in gold for most jobs and all the torque specs are there and easy to find. They can be found easily on Amazon:
__________________
2000 New Beetle GLS TDI 5 speed swap w/SBC Stg 3 clutch and Dieselgeek short shifter, RC3, PP520's, Eurojet SMIC, 3 bar map, Dieselgeek skidplate, 2" lift w/VR6 springs, 2.5" turbo-back straight pipe "weedburner" side exhaust, air horn, ABD Cup front bumper, HID retrofit, LED tails, Bernt Pod w/McNally gauges. WISH LIST: VNT 17/22 hybrid turbo, RC5 and other silly stuff. |
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My bad I have just been so busy, I am grateful for the help, I just cant sit and watch the screen all the time.
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Good lord! What the heck happened? And did it happen on your watch or did you buy it this way?
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Susan Hester --------------------- Tater 2006 Harvest Moon Beige TDI Auto/Tiptronic/DSG Package 2 with XM Former owner of:
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Quote:
I bought the one with the black top first and it had damage that I could not see when i bought it, I then bought the one that had the engine fire to use it for parts. This is almost mind blowing but I will get there and complete one and part out the other, wish me luck and thanks to anyone that has answered any of my questions. |
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The best I can tell it looks like it may of started below the windshield on the passenger side, I may be wrong. The motor is still good I think, it just melted all of the plastic and wiring harness. I will try and keep this updated when I get time to post, it all looks like hell now but I will have one ready shortly and alot of extra parts. |
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