Well I got a little closer to my objective of removing the cylinder head, with emphasis on little and not because I was not trying.
First let me say that I made an assumption; which is something you should never do.
My assumption was that the tensioner [CCH DIY 063] is the same as is on the 2.0 NB and this is not the case. Apparently there are two more special tools required, a T10092 (which is a bolt/stud of some type 063-2) and a T40011 (which is a retaining pin 063-3). Also I noticed the white mark on the tensioner and I "assume" it is an alignment mark of some sort. Must have been done by a previous mechanic.
Of course my younger brother had the solution in hand, the exacto knife!
I said, "Dude your
that is a perfectly good timing belt and I'm not cutting it off!"
However I did manage to do everything else; which amounted to the steps required to do a TB/WP change, without actually making any changes.
The motor must be supported by some alternate means before removing the motor mount. The VW special tools for motor support is expensive, so I opted for the jack with an 18" 2x12 [CCH DIY 067] under the oil pan. Not a recommended method, but it works. Be careful using this method or the oil pan and/or dog bone mount can be damaged; afterwards the motor will move when loosing any bolts that are torqued down.
The pics for these steps are out of work sequence, sorry about that.
Step Twenty-One: [CCH DIY 067] Remove the coolant tube, to give yourself room to get the motor mount out. Disconnecting the rubber hoses, 066-1 and 067-2 (out of view), it will be difficult as they are in awkward positions. I choose to disconnect the tube from the frame clamps, 067-3 and 067-4, it helped a little.
Step Twenty-Two: [CCH DIY 068 and 069] (
Danger Will Robinson, Danger...) Removing the lower crank pulley. 068-1 is the serpentine belt, if you have not already removed it, now would be a good time. 068-2 is the Crank Bolt and you will need a 12 point socket for it. The only concern here is not to move the crank out of alignment that was set at the beginning. Some movement is to be expected, so place close attention to it or all of your work will be for naught. 068-3 is the crank pulley alignment mark, which is to ensure that you put the pulley back on the crank gear correctly. To get the pulley bolts 068-4 through 068-7 off, put your 12 point socket wrench on the crank bolt 068-2 and hold it, with the other hand loosen bolts 068-4 through 068-7. The crank pulley is an exact fit on the crank bolt, so some wiggle/wobble of the pulley will be needed to get it off;
DO NOT TURN THE PULLEY AND DO NOT FORGET ABOUT THE TIMING MARKS while you are doing it.
Step Twenty-Three: [CCH DIY 069 and 069-A] Removing the lower timing belt cover plates. The notable item here is 069-6, which is the block timing mark; there is a matching alignment mark on the crank pulley.
Step Twenty-Four: [CCH DIY 064, 065, 066 and 067] Removing the frame motor mount; bolts 064-1, 065-2, 065-3, 066-1 and 066-2. 065-3 will be difficult as it is under the coolant/expansion tank; mine was already done as the previous mechanic did not bolt it back down.
Step Twenty-Five: [CCH DIY 064, 065, 066, 066-A, 066-B and 067] Removing the motor mount; bolts 066-3, 066-4 and 066-5. Bolts 066-4 and 066-5 cannot be removed from the motor mount until it itself has been removed. Removing this part of the motor mount is difficult as it will take some twisting and rotating to get it out. I had to adjust the motor support jack to get mine out.
FYI [CCH DIY 070] Shows the water pump and the lower portion of the timing and serpentine belt tensioners.