possible subwoofer install?

[dhunters4life]

i wanna put a system in my fiancee's bug, but i got some questions,

how do you run it off the battery cause it has the extra thing ontop with a bunch of accesories to it?

were would you mount the ground?

and can a monsoon cd player handle the system? or do i need to put a aftermarket in,,,,

i got all the stuff to do it with just lookin for some help with the how to



thanks

[noR]

Run a power cable from the battery through the firewall under the carpet to the trunk where you'll mount your sub.

Ground it to the metal in the trunk.

Yes, a monsoon system will allow you to add a subwoofer; but you'll need to tap into the speaker lines, and add your own amplifier to handle the extra power the sub requires.

[dhunters4life]

how do i run it off the battery with all those extra things there?

and how do i run the remote wire

[dhunters4life]

and i guess i need a Auxillary Input Converter can i run the sub into that for it still?

n how do i take it out i tryed but it wouldnt budge

[HarlequinPixie]

Hm, i'm not familiar with the stock head unit since my car hasn't had one in it since before I got her.. Running the power wire for the amp though.. you should just be able to connect it directly to the positive terminal of the battery and run it out the side of the box. My power wire had an in-line fuse with it, so didn't need to monkey with the fuse box on top of the battery. For the remote wire, my wiring harness for the stereo had a wire for it that wasn't being used until now, I *think* the wire was blue, but I'm not 100% positive on that. It also had a tag on it that said REM and (+)

[sean_fabanich]

u have two main options...either get an aftermarket radio or keep your original. either will work. but if your planning on eventually changing the radio for mp3 connectivity or what not then do it now. keep in mind not all after market radios will fit in there...especially with all the rca cables you may want to do...id just use the stock unless you have a professional do the install.

otherwise. flip up the top of the battery box and attach a power wire (i suggest at least 8 gauge, but possibly 4, depending on how powerful an amp u use). i have a 5 channel kicker amp (runs all speakers and sub) and a single 10 inch diamond audio sub in a box built to its specifications, its a big box. but well worth it if you want to make a 10 sound like two 2 twelves. ive helped others with the install and most go with a single 10 or 12 in a truck box to maximize truck room. again this depends on what kinda of sound ur looking for. when getting an amp look at the rms wattage. and its easiest to get a mono amp. match the sub rms wattage with the rms output of the amp. dont go by peak wattage(pay attention to wattages at what impedance (2 or 4 ohms)...

anyways. you can run the power cable out the inside of the battery box. at which point i suggest mounting the inline fuse on the rear top of the battery box(keep the fuse out until ur all done)....then run the cable to the right side of the engine compartment and around the air intake and air filter box. behind the air box on the firewall is a rubber grommet which 4 gauge will easily fit thru. inside the car you'll have to drop the kick panel above the pedals. ull need a small set of torqs bits. remove that black panel and ull see the grommet up fairly high. put the cable thru that gromet.

then you have 2 choices.....either pull apart all the panels running the length of the car...or dont...i did in my install...definitely takes more time but allows you to completely hide the power cable and also gets you set up to pick up signal at the driver rear speaker. there is a small kick panel that you can rest your left foot on...it actually slides up and then a bolt hides behind it for the panel that houses the hood release...u can leave that small panel in place...but helps to loosen it....run the power cable to that point then pull up the piece of panel that covers the edge of the carpet around the bottom of the door. at the rear of the door that panel snaps together with the entire rear panel that covers the rear speaker. that panel must be slid upward to take off....first pull around the rear part of that panel to loosen some popits and then slide it upward....first you may want to remove the bottom of the rear seat...it lifts right out...then fold the back flat. i would run the cable thru the different channels of supports to underneath the back seat..then pull it out to where youll mount your amp..i suggest on the back of the seat.u can drill into the metal that the back of the seat sits above...the shorter the ground the better.

while you do all that youll also have to run a remote turn on lead wire....it needs attached to any wire that turns hot only when the key is turned to accessory. u can for sure find a wire like that in the bottom kick panel...

to catch signal for the amp u can buy a signal converter(two channel line output converter) that metra makes....it will give you a rca output. it has five wires that come out of it. a gray. a gray with black, an all black, a white, and a white with black. ignore the all black...just tape it off. strip an inch or so off of the other four wires....twist together the white and gray wire...(in a fashion that you can still splice them to something else) and do the same with the white and gray that both have the black line. the two wires that have the black line on it get spliced into the driver rear speaker signal wire that is negative...and the white and gray solid colors get spliced to the positive side. (bass is mono so you only need to pull signal from one speaker...normally i would suggest getting this signal in the dash....but the stock radio is a pain to pull out and there is very little room in the dash for this line converter....so just do it at the driver side rear speaker.) usually the converter has some type of adjustment on it...dont mess with it...its preset. (ull have to look up the speaker wire colors for + and -...i dont remember them...try metraonline.com.

once you have it connected id suggest wrapping the converter in bubble wrap and securing it somwhere in that panel..so it doesnt bounce around. of course connect a set of rca first...7 feet should be enough...dont use cheap ones or ull end up with a hair of distortion that sounds like the whine of a turbo. run the rcas down and out under where the rear seat will be...careful with placement so it doesnt run somewhere that can be pinched when you replace the panels and bottom of seat.

at this point id replace the panels and then attach the power and ground cable and the rca cables.

***** things to think about....if you buy an mtx jackhammer amp it comes with a patented set of rca wires that would eliminate the need of the converter and remote turn on lead... so definitely worth considering...one end of the wires have an rca end...the other is like stranded wire....just connect them like you would have the converter. plus you wont need a remote turn on lead...the amp turns on when it senses signal thru the rca leads provided. they make a jackhammer 300 amp that is very good. it is underrated and would work well in this application and not be very expensive. they also make a 600...but honestly youd only need that if you wanted some serious dbs....like i said my sub is just a ten in a vented box and runs off an amp that pushes at most 400 watts to the sub...and the gain is turned up just over half...and my car hits at about 130 db. the cars has great acoustics...just face the sub towards the back of the trunk and get someone qualified to tune the amp....also if you go with more than a 300 rms watt amp id suggest getting a small capacitor...or else youll end up replacing a battery or alternator sooner than later.

good luck