2006 Head Unit stuck

[dmbluebeetle]

Originally Posted by turbokid

Could this head unit also cause the amp not to go into sleep mode?

The AMP powers up when it senses voltage on the right rear radio output. It should then shut down when the radio is turned off and that voltage quits.

It's possible, if you get corrosion around the audio outputs or near the power block where the wires connect.

[turbokid]

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

There are 2 retainer clips mounted to the sides of the radio, the keys are supposed to draw the clips in towards the radio to allow it to be pulled out.

The black lever is to hold the antenna cable to the back of the radio so it won't pop loose.

Is it possible it could be in the way to keep it from sliding out.. Anyway. I've ordered a 98-2010 Bentley manual. I figure since I'm going to keep buying Bugs I might as well get one all the way to the final edition.

[sean_fabanich]

im pretty shocked no one mentioned this yet.

almost every beetle ive worked on....as in replaced the radio...the wire harnesses in the back wont slide up thru the dash to allow me to fully...or at least easily remove the radio...the harnesses are wrapped in a tape...and if they settle down into the dash....dont like to move back up. i doubt the amp is whats draining your battery...it could be...but i bet a more likely option is that you were pulling so hard you may have pulled one of the wires out of the harness...or broke the wire...it should cause the fuse to blow..but ya never know for sure with wiring.

assuming you arent an idiot...no offense....just covering myself here...id say thats the problem. dissasemble the dash on the driver side...underneath...near the pedals...and try to reach up and find the bundles of wires. and asssit them up...thats gonna be tough thou...another option...and probably easier on the hands...would be to remove the screw covers on the bottom part of the radio dash bubble...below the heater controls...there are screws behind the mini panels next to the buttons for defroster and caution lights i think. remove those...and you might be able to reach up and assist those wires...or get a finger on the back of the radio for better leverage.

of course you could just be the lucky person who bought a car that the radio was installed poorly...and the clips are messedup...if you cant get it out at all..ur pretty much screwed..as there are 2 screws behind the left and right side of the radio that must be removed to take off the dash piece.

good luck

[turbokid]

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

There are 2 retainer clips mounted to the sides of the radio, the keys are supposed to draw the clips in towards the radio to allow it to be pulled out.

The black lever is to hold the antenna cable to the back of the radio so it won't pop loose.

I've noticed there are two styles of removal keys. Which work the best. I have the somewhat rounded taper tip. The other is somewhat angled straight with a slightly rounded tip.

[turbokid]

Originally Posted by sean_fabanich

im pretty shocked no one mentioned this yet.

almost every beetle ive worked on....as in replaced the radio...the wire harnesses in the back wont slide up thru the dash to allow me to fully...or at least easily remove the radio...the harnesses are wrapped in a tape...and if they settle down into the dash....dont like to move back up. i doubt the amp is whats draining your battery...it could be...but i bet a more likely option is that you were pulling so hard you may have pulled one of the wires out of the harness...or broke the wire...it should cause the fuse to blow..but ya never know for sure with wiring.

assuming you arent an idiot...no offense....just covering myself here...id say thats the problem. dissasemble the dash on the driver side...underneath...near the pedals...and try to reach up and find the bundles of wires. and asssit them up...thats gonna be tough thou...another option...and probably easier on the hands...would be to remove the screw covers on the bottom part of the radio dash bubble...below the heater controls...there are screws behind the mini panels next to the buttons for defroster and caution lights i think. remove those...and you might be able to reach up and assist those wires...or get a finger on the back of the radio for better leverage.

of course you could just be the lucky person who bought a car that the radio was installed poorly...and the clips are messedup...if you cant get it out at all..ur pretty much screwed..as there are 2 screws behind the left and right side of the radio that must be removed to take off the dash piece.

good luck

Thanks for the tip Sean. It's good to see positive advice without being called mentally challenged as another on the ORG did. Another issue. I'm versed in electronics and worked in the electrical field for 35 years. The only reason I've asked for help is my Bentley manual hasn't arrived yet.

I'm familiar with the bundle of wires your referring to. The unit needs to UNLATCH before that's an issue. It's obvious the keys I'm using are correct but not working as they should. I don't know if the 06+ models used the same keys. I was told these would work. But you know how that goes sometimes.

As for a broken wire. The HU was working perfectly except for the CD. No battery drain. That's the one thing I didn't try before I bought the car. (stupid me). Radio works great. Now the battery dies after a day and a half. Traced it to fuse 41 or 42. Whichever controlls SOUND as it's labeled in the manual. This is just my theory. I think since the CD load/unload (wife put in a CD) is not working properly it's telling the AMP to not shut off thus a 2.75 amp drain on the battery while the ignition is off.

I'll probably do as you've mentioned and try to take off some dash pieces to see if I can get a hand in there or at least peek inside with a mirror.

One more question for you or someone. How strong are these key released side latches. Can brute force overcome them..

As it stands right now. Fuse is out. New battery installed. No more drain. Thanks Sean.. `robert`

[dmbluebeetle]

These are what mine look like

[turbokid]

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

These are what mine look like

One mystery solved. I went to my local dealership and the tech pulled the HU out without any problems. I asked to see his keys and they where like yours.. Dang.. SOB's on eBay sold me the wrong keys.. He also told me a defective HU could keep the Monsoon amp hot causing a battery discarge over X amount of hours. I unplugged the HU from the car with the SOUND fuse in place and no amps being pulled. So the HU has something to do with the amp staying on.. Stay tuned..

[turbokid]

This is an update for anyone that was following this thread. I had a two fold problem and didn't realize they where related.
1. Dead battery
2. CD stuck in radio.(turns out this head unit was going bad)

I bought new battery. Battery still dies after about 48hrs of no use.

Scatching head. Traced the current draw to the audio circuit. Pulled fuse. Battery not dying now.

I bought keys to remove Radio head unit from dash. Keys described as for VW New Beetle.. WRONG.. Turns out the keys they said where for a beetle was actually for a Mercedes head unit. Duhhh. Banging head now..

Went to dealer they pulled the head unit for free. Nice tech. I will do bussiness with them again till I get screwed over.

Ordered a new set of keys off eBay.

Since the CD no longer functioned on the head unit I decided to buy another one. Patiently searched around and found one for sale at no reserve on eBay. Said it was new. Won the auction.

I received it today. Took the CORRECT removal keys and pulled the head unit as it should. Replaced the head unit, entered my new coded and behold. Sound again.

Still unsure the problem is fixed. It seems the monsoon amp was staying on (reason unknown) and pulling a tad under three amps discharging the battery in about 36hrs. I went out this evening after the unit was installed about four hours earlier. I pulled the audio fuse and reinstalled it. No load arcing. This indicated the amp had turned itself off. <wiping forehead>

So... It turns out one problem was related to another. Killed two birds at the same time. I kept my old battery and use it in my hotrod. The head unit, I'll sell to someone handy with CD player repair on Craigslist. I really appreciate the advise and suggestions which lead me to the root of the problem.

The wife is a happy camper now. Got her CD tunes back. I'm happy because the car is fixed as it should. End of story.. C-ya.

~robert

[4SEVEN3]

For refrence: The first keys pictured (D shaped holes) are the same keys that work on Mercedes-Benz radios. I had 2 sets from when I worked on MB, I called Crutchfield (who I orderd a few parts from) and they said its the same key and should work fine. To get my radio out I have a set of plastic pry tools I used to get the radio without marring the dash itself. Worked like a champ! More than likely you wont be able to get the radio out with just the keys...itll take a little gentle prying and a few choice words to get it out!

[turbokid]

Originally Posted by 4SEVEN3

For refrence: The first keys pictured (D shaped holes) are the same keys that work on Mercedes-Benz radios. I had 2 sets from when I worked on MB, I called Crutchfield (who I orderd a few parts from) and they said its the same key and should work fine. To get my radio out I have a set of plastic pry tools I used to get the radio without marring the dash itself. Worked like a champ! More than likely you wont be able to get the radio out with just the keys...itll take a little gentle prying and a few choice words to get it out!

If you referring to the keys I first posted a picture of, then you are correct. They are Mercedes keys and will not release a 2005 stamped head unit. The second set posted are indeed the correct keys. They are posted just like them in my 2010 Bentley manual which at first I didn't have. With the correct keys the head unit slides right out. The only problem one will run into is the unit cabling that snakes around inside the dash that keeps the head unit from pulling out far enough to remove the rear cabling connectors. You have to pull with a bit of force to get the unit out far enough to get your hand behind to work the cable wires out far enough to be able to disconnect on the back of the unit. ~robert