speaker sizes??

[theslag]

Hi all...

Im looking to replace my stock speakers in my 2003 GL bug...I was on crutchfeilds site and they have a few sizes for the front and rear...what sizes to they both use and also...whats a good sounding speaker for the Bug?? Any suggestions...not looking to spend a ton of cash, but looking for 1/2 decent sound over the stock speakers..

Thanks!!

[jdesigns]

The doors and rear speakers are 6 1/2's. I don't recommend changing out the door speakers as they are only woofers and don't put out any high frequencies.

If you are going to replace just speakers, replace the rear and the dash speakers. That'll make the biggest difference in sound. (Other than adding amps and fun stuff like that)

[dkarmann]

The factory speakers in most cars are just terrible. Even you monsoon guys only get marginally better speakers. Here is a representative of a factory speaker with a paper cone and a foam surround. Paper is the cheapest material used for speaker cones and foam surrounds usually start to deteriorate extremely fast. Just a small amount of moisture can warp a paper cone, so you can imagine that with the beetles low speaker placement this is not a good choice of cone materials.


Here is a sample of a low end aftermarket speaker. It has a Polypropylene cone with a UV-treated ribbed polypropylene/foam surround. Polypropylene is not affected by moisture. This replacement speaker is $69 on www.crutchfield.com
Not to mention it is a 2-way which simply means it has a tweeter built onto the woofer for mids and highs.

Basically when it comes to replacement speakers everyone will have their own opinion as to what to get. I would say that the factory speakers are so bad that just about anything you can buy aftermarket will be an upgrade. Personally I would stick with a name brand that has been around and has a good reputation of producing quality products. Sony, Kicker, Alpine, Blaupunkt, Kenwood and Pioneer are just a few.

[theslag]

but, if the front is only a woofer..what should i use to replace it?? also, is it easy to replace the back set too..

How about Infinity speakers???

[iScott]

I'm in the process of planing and saving for my audio set up. I'm getting all new speakers and a new head unit. I'm going to rewire the speakers to that they go directly to the head unit instead of being self powered and stuff like the stock speakers are (hence that weird connection that's causing me to rewire it). I'm going to have an amp and a sub for the bass.

What REALLY threw me off where the damn rivets that hold the stock spears in place. What's up with that?! I'm kinda stuck on how to mount the new speakers.

[dkarmann]

I'm not 100% as of your setup. I have an aftermarket radio and my front door speakers arent just woofers. They are midranges just as they should be. There is no tweeter mounted on the door speakers so there is not going to be any higher frequencies. I get higher bass frequencies (mid bass) and voice coming from mine. My radio has a built in highpass crossover to cut out all the low frequencies that can possibly harm smaller speakers at high volume. The front speakers are riveted onto the door but the back ones are just screwed on with 4 screws. I've always heard good things about infinity products.

[dkarmann]

www.crutchfield.com
Kicker Car Speaker Half-price Sale

Buy one set of select Kicker speakers and add a second pair
of equal or lesser value to your order at half-price. See details
Free shipping through May 31st
Free installation gear for most cars and free lifetime tech support

Sorry I'm sorta partial to Kicker. You could get 2 pair of the Kicker ds series coaxials pictured above for $105 shipped. Great Deal! Would sound 100 times better then stock.

[iScott]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

Any comments on those rivets and what a good way to mount the new speakers?

[dkarmann]

I actually have yet to tackle the front speakers. My Kicker components should be here on the 25th. I've already removed all my door panels in preparation. I replaced the back speakers before about a year ago when I blew one of my factory speakers. I can't wait to get out the ol' drill and go to town. I'm hoping I can somehow remove the factory speaker from the plastic surround and attach the new speakers to the plastic surround. I hope to be able to use the plastic surround because it has the rubber gasket that helps create a good seal between the speaker and the grill and it moves the speaker out further from the door panel placing it closer to the grill.

[iScott]

So the rear speakers don't use those rivets?

[dkarmann]

My rear speakers were held in with 4 phillips head screws. I've owned it since day 1 so I know it wasnt done by a previous owner.

[marvins_dad]

Originally Posted by UFC_Champ_Scott

Cool. Thanks for the info.

Any comments on those rivets and what a good way to mount the new speakers?

With the new speakers - be very careful and watch the deapth of the new speaker magnets compared to the stock ones. The stock ones clear the window when rolled down - but most aftermarket speakers will be too deep. We installed a pair of infinity 6.5's in a members bug a few years back and had to build 3/4"-1.5" spacer to allow for the window to clear the magnets...would really suck if you were to install the speakers then you go to drop the window and smack the top of your magnets and really screw something up.
I suggest doing your install with the windows rolled dow so you can account for the clearance you need (just be careful if you have tinted windows not to scratch them)

antoine

[iScott]

Originally Posted by marvins_dad

We installed a pair of infinity 6.5's in a members bug a few years back and had to build 3/4"-1.5" spacer to allow for the window to clear the magnets.

That's what I planned to do. But what did you use in place of the rivet? Some type of bolt/but combo or what?

[EvilinaDM101]

Originally Posted by dkarmann

The factory speakers in most cars are just terrible. Even you monsoon guys only get marginally better speakers. Here is a representative of a factory speaker with a paper cone and a foam surround. Paper is the cheapest material used for speaker cones and foam surrounds usually start to deteriorate extremely fast. Just a small amount of moisture can warp a paper cone, so you can imagine that with the beetles low speaker placement this is not a good choice of cone materials.


Here is a sample of a low end aftermarket speaker. It has a Polypropylene cone with a UV-treated ribbed polypropylene/foam surround. Polypropylene is not affected by moisture. This replacement speaker is $69 on www.crutchfield.com
Not to mention it is a 2-way which simply means it has a tweeter built onto the woofer for mids and highs.

Basically when it comes to replacement speakers everyone will have their own opinion as to what to get. I would say that the factory speakers are so bad that just about anything you can buy aftermarket will be an upgrade. Personally I would stick with a name brand that has been around and has a good reputation of producing quality products. Sony, Kicker, Alpine, Blaupunkt, Kenwood and Pioneer are just a few.

WOO-HOO!! Those are a GREAT deal!! I am thinking about ordering them RIGHT NOW!! The only hold back is I can't hear them first . . .

Anyone have these have a pic of what it looks like installed?

[manoverboard987]

Originally Posted by UFC_Champ_Scott

That's what I planned to do. But what did you use in place of the rivet? Some type of bolt/but combo or what?

silly scott. you're forgetting what we've already discussed in this thread...

Originally Posted by manoverboard987

my speakers came with screws and little metal clip-looking-things to fit around the sheet metal.

the clips dont wrap around our sheet metal like they should, but i taped them in place behind the holes, then screwed the speaker in.

the point of the clips is that the hole in them is small enough for the screw to hold tight to.

if your speakers didnt come with them, i'm sure you could find them in an auto parts store, though i've never looked.