I have a 99 beetle 2.0 auto my car starts and it shuts off in seconds i replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and it still did not fix the problem the weird thing about this thing is that i got small vise grips and clamped the return fuel line and the car stays on at idle.....has anyone encounter this problem before i ran out of options.....can anyone help thanks

.....to try to ascertain why there are so few water-cooled-specific Beetle clubs out there today. Consider these facts: Modern Bugs with FWD, radiators, and front engines have been around now for over 15 years. In the beginning, NB clubs sprung up all over the place and events like Roswell were once huge. I saw a You Tube video of Roswell from 2001 and wanted to cry. Instead, I asked myself, "What happened?"

Today, another Orger and I have a club in the upper Midwest, but he and I are the only active participants. I see there's still a NB club in So Cal, Florida, and ones forming in Connecticut and North Carolina, but that's about it.

I have a couple of theories as to the answer:

Consumer Reports didn't help when they ripped the New Beetle in reliability reports, and sales began to fall rapidly by 2002 or so.

Nevertheless, for reasons completely baffling to me, the average NB driver fails to realize that they own an iconic automobile that has been updated to today's standards and instead regard it as just another car. Some go as far to say that NBs/12+ models aren't "real" Beetles because they're not air-cooled, and thus not show-worthy. Unless, of course, they're slammed and modded. :rolleyes:

And yet.....magazines like Hot VWs were around 40 years ago and had no problem featuring then-current Beetles. WTF is up with that?

In contrast, the Mini Cooper was reborn around 2002 or 2003,(I'm not sure) but that was a good decade ago either way you slice it, and there are Mini clubs everywhere. They also outsell Beetles by about 3:1, which is quite odd when the original Beetle was once far more prevalent than the original Mini.

My sister is an avid Mini person in such a club, and I have agreed to attend one of the shows she goes to as a spectator to see what sets these people apart from NB/12+ people. Hopefully, I'll be enlightened by the experience and find out why Mini Cooper clubs are so much more popular. Certainly, the 3:1 sales play a role, but there has to be something else going on, too, and I intend to find out.

The burning question, then is this: Are NB/12+ enthusiasts destined to settle for all-VW shows, or will water-cooled Beetle clubs ever resurface to 1998-2000 era numbers? In the former setting, this wouldn't be such a bad thing if it weren't for the bias at air-cooled shows or the fact that NBs/12+s are clearly out-of place at your typical water-cooled VW shows as well. In short? Water-cooled Beetle people are in a class of their own, and a very special class to boot. Sadly, there are far too few of us.

Not the S Model – The symptoms are: no cold air and little electrical anomalies like erratic engine idle, or high engine idle, or an occasional sputter.

I tested both cooling fans, all okay. A mechanic tested my 1-year old Behr compressor, he says it is working. He also tested the Freon, that checked out satisfactorily. I pulled the 3 fuses out several times and reseated them (I assume this area is okay, but cannot prove it). Any thoughts?

I opened my convertible top but forgot that I had some hats behind the back seat. The top got stuck in a funny way...the window didn't fold down and that pushed the frame into the headrests on the back seat. I finally got the hats out of the way and pushed the window down so the top went down but will not go back up. I'm on a month long road trip, in Nashville, TN toight.
Any help would be appreciated because my baby is sitting outside a motel with no top!

This is a very basic write-up of the work I did over the last weekend to replace the AC condenser on my 1998 TDI. This should apply to all engines I would suspect.

Two major steps to this operation, removal of the front body of the Beetle, and then removal of the radiator/condenser.

Tools required are basic, socket set, torque wrench, Torx set of screw driver bits (T15, T20, T25, T30 required), allen wrenches, ramps, jack and jack stand.

Before you begin, if you are going to work on your AC system, removing the condenser or working on the compressor, you will need to have the R134 in the system removed by a shop. It is illegal to allow it to vent to the atmosphere. If you are like me and had your AC system have a broken hose then it's been taken care of (hooray?).

Removal of the front body
1. Parking brake set, and transmission set to Park or in 1st.
2. Loosen the lugs on your driver side front tire and then jack up the front driver side and put a jack stand under the frame. Leave the jack on as well to have both the jack stand and jack holding up as it is safer. Complete the removal of the driver side front tire.
3. Remove the wheel well liner by removing all of the torx screws holding it in place. There are approximately 10 in total, there is one non-visible screw up in the perch for your strut. I use a stubby screw driver to get that one out as there is little room up there. Pull out the liner being careful around the strut as it needs a bit of twisting to fit around.
4. Remove the bolts, nuts, and screws holding the front body to the frame within the wheel well. There are two bolts up above that require a 10mm socket, four nuts on the side that require a 10mm socket, there are two screws under the car by the driver door that use a T30 torx, and then one screw to the front top that also uses a T30.
5. Put the wheel back on the car and tighten the lugs. Remove the jack stand and lower the driver side of the car. Optionally you can leave the wheel off and leave the car on jack stands. I prefer to lower the car to the ground for the next part as it is easier to work on the screws that need to be removed from above that way.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the passenger side of the car.
7. Reach in under the car and disconnect the electrical connection for your fog lights if you have them.
8. Remove the driver and passenger side front signal lights by prying off the cover and using a philips head undoing the screw.
9. Remove the front headlights from the Beetle.
10. With a T30 torx screw driver remove the approximately twenty screws holding the front on to the frame from above.
11. With an assistant, DO NOT TRY THIS ALONE YOU WILL WRECK YOUR CAR, pull the driver/passenger fenders away from the bolts holding it in place, transfer your hands so that one is on the fender part, and one is on the bumper part for proper support, and then tilt/pull the front away from the car. Do not hold the front part up by only the fender or bumper as that will cause the other part to flex and potentially bend out of shape ruining your day. Make sure you and your assistant understand how you want to move the part before you begin to move.

Removal of the radiator/condenser

Now this part gave me some problems at first. The bentley manual was vague and/or wrong in regards to removal or working on the radiator and condenser. I had to take what was there, and what I found online in regards to the Beetle and other VWs like the Jetta to piece together what needed to be done to get the condenser, radiator and fan assembly apart and off the car. Now for my work to repair the AC system I did not need to touch the radiator and fans, just needed to remove the condenser. I'll try to cover how to get all of it apart. The first thing to know is that the radiator, condenser, and fans are not mounted to the frame of the vehicle directly or to the engine, they actually mount from the front with the bumper and what is known as the lock carrier. Now once you realize this, and then look at the vehicle you will see that if you were to simply unbolt the lock carrier and bumper the radiator, condenser, and components will all be held up by only the radiator and condenser hoses, which are not meant to carry the load.

1. Drive your car up onto a set of ramps. Leave the car in gear (or park), parking brake on, and then put a set of blocks on the back tires to ensure it goes nowhere while you work. Safety.
2. Crawl under the car and remove the belly pan, then remove the passenger side skirt and driver side skirts.
3. If you are going to remove the radiator you'll need to drain the coolant. The drain is located to the bottom left of the radiator. I should point out that you have to do this with the car cold, not hot. Hot would be very very bad and maybe kill you with scalding hot coolant. I didn't do this because I was just after the AC system.
4. Disconnect the cable for the hood lock and the electrical connection for the hood open/close sensor. Remove any clips that would hold either to the lock carrier.
5. Remove the bumper, there are four large bolts that use a 13mm socket on the large plates that hold the bumper in place. Additionally these hold the lock carrier in place along with two bolts on top. Once the bolts are undone just pull it forward. It's weighty but not really heavy, it only looks heavy.
6. Grab your jack and a 3 foot length of 2x4, we're going to use this to hold up the weight of the radiator once we remove the lock carrier. Jack up until the wood is touching the bottom of the radiator and able to take the weight. Use a piece of wood like that so you support the radiator across the length and not in one place where the weight might cause damage to the light metal of the radiator as it sits on the jack.
7. Remove the two bolts on the top of the lock carrier. You'll note now that the entire assembly is floating free and held up by the jack.
8. The lock carrier is attached to the radiator/condenser with four torx screws on the front, remove those and pull the lock carrier off.
9. Disconnect the AC lines going to the condenser and to the receiver/dryer which is a cylinder attached to the condenser using a 5mm allen (might be 4mm or 6mm on some bolts). One thing to know and remember is that the dryer is full of desiccant, intended to remove moisture from the AC system. Once you expose it to the environment it will pull moisture from the air and quite rapidly become useless. Oh yah if you didn't remember to get the R134 removed you're gonna get a blast of it on that first bolt you remove.
10. Unscrew the four torx screws holding the condenser to the radiator and pull it off. Be gentle as the radiator is just floating there on your jack.

This is as far as I went with my work, so the next few steps are guesses based on what I saw.

11. Disconnect the radiator hoses and unplug the electrical connections to the fans. The radiator and fans should now be free to remove from the car.
12. Remove the fan carrier from the radiator.

17" Rims from 2012/13 New Beetle.
New In Box
Would like to sell local. No idea how much shipping would be.
can call or TXT
Jason
(510) 301-1999
In MANTECA CA
:cool:

$1100 OBO
Retails for over $2500

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Hi Guys,

Would appreciate any suggestions you may have.

My 2000 2 litre new beetle has really low compression across all 4 cylinders - readings of between 40 and 50 psi. The hand-held diagnostics show a problem on Cylinder 2. The engine fires and runs, albeit rough on idle. Oil light flashes and buzzer sounds at revs above 2000.

What can causes such low compression readings - does this indicate major engine rebuild needed or is there some other reason why the pressure should be so low? There is a coolant leak, likely an internal leak - I had presumed it was the head gasket, but I am not so sure now....

Recently I have changed out the water pump, the thermostat and the timing belt - the leak still persists and it's still pushing vapour out through the exhaust. The cooling system seems to be overly pressurised. I had thought that the flashing oil light was likely due to some water getting into the oil and so proper lubrication was not getting to the top of the engine. .....

Any help/advice would be warmly welcomed!

Thanks,

Rob
Edit/Delete Message

I am an auto detailer by trade and have been trying to come to grips with the ongoing need for headlight restoration. Firstly, there are two types of headlight damage; 1) oxidation and 2) actual surface damage, i.e. rock chips, scratches, etc. With the second type, sanding, polishing and sealing is in order. For the first type, oxidation remover is all that is required. The only product that I am able to find on line or ANYWHERE for that matter is Pittman's Original ALR. They seem to have a monopoly on the market with their product and at $99 for a can or tube, it's WAY too pricy. Have any of you weekend detailers out there heard of an alternative for this very expensive oxidation remover? Thanks! :)

Hi Guys,

Would appreciate any suggestions you may have.

My 2000 2 litre new beetle has really low compression across all 4 cylinders - readings of between 40 and 50 psi. The hand-held diagnostics show a problem on Cylinder 2. The engine fires and runs, albeit rough on idle. Oil light flashes and buzzer sounds at revs above 2000.

What can causes such low compression readings - does this indicate major engine rebuild needed or is there some other reason why the pressure should be so low? There is a coolant leak, likely an internal leak - I had presumed it was the head gasket, but I am not so sure now....

Recently I have changed out the water pump, the thermostat and the timing belt - the leak still persists and it's still pushing vapour out through the exhaust. The cooling system seems to be overly pressurised. I had thought that the flashing oil light was likely due to some water getting into the oil and so proper lubrication was not getting to the top of the engine. .....

Any help/advice would be warmly welcomed!

Thanks,

Rob

I have an 04 Beetle with intermitent ac problem. The ac will work sometimes only on low fan speed as soon as you turn the fan up it cuts out then will not turn back on and just blow hot air. :confused: Any suggestions?

Greetings all. new to the forum.

i just bought my wife a '13 Vert. Wanted to add some Xenon lamps, or Halo lamps to the car as I hate the way Halogen bulbs look.

I've found a bunch of editions for the previous generation, but have not found any for the newer versions. Anyone know if they make a newer set for her car?

I have a new set of rims, and an appointment to smoke the taillight a next week... Will post pics. As well as the integrated radar detector.

Thanks in advance.

Every now and then (about once a monty) my 02 1.8 turbo will not start. Turns over fine but will not fire. The car has to sit for a couple of days then it will crank. Any one else have this problem?

Hello, new to the VW crowd. looking forwaed to chatting with everyone.

Greetings all. I got tagged last Saturday by 02SilverSport who had parked behind me at the local grocery store (nice car!), so I checked out the site and joined. Anyway, here’s my NB story (short version) ... my first car was a 1960 Beetle (36hp) and my second car was a 1966 Beetle (40hp). I’ve been through many, many cars since then but never another VW until this past March 1 when I bought a 1999 New Beetle 2.0 GLS 5 speed. The cyber green machine had 94k and was in need of some love (lots of little things wrong with it but it runs great).

Finally, after many, many years I’m back in a Beetle and loving it. The best part is that when I drive it in L.O.L. mode (LOL = Little Old Lady - no disrespect intended), I get 30+ mpg combined. But it’s hard to drive it that way ‘cause I keep looking for fast, curvy roads to gear through ... it’s a quandry.

I haven’t named the car yet, still trying to figure out if it’s a he or a she and what his/her personality is. I like “Fang” but my eldest sister suggested “Butter bean.” Ugh, not in this life.