Driver's Doorlock AND Driver's Power Mirror not working

[samman11]

Help. Is this just a reset that would solve this? Both the driver's side power doorlock AND the driver's side sideview power mirror stopped working at the SAME TIME on my 2005 Convertible. Is this a fuse? Can this be reset like I once reset my rear window (only went down halfway and was reset by disconnecting battery cables and then reconnecting? Please chime in and let me know before I go to the dealer. Thank you to all.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

There is not a reset of any kind to my knowledge. If it were a fuse there would be a problem on both sides. I'm going to look at the wiring diagram and see what wire or component might be common. Are all other functions door related working properly, e.g. window drop, alarm setting, trunk release, fuel lid release, etc?

[samman11]

Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette

There is not a reset of any kind to my knowledge. If it were a fuse there would be a problem on both sides. I'm going to look at the wiring diagram and see what wire or component might be common. Are all other functions door related working properly, e.g. window drop, alarm setting, trunk release, fuel lid release, etc?

Yes, all else working properly. Just doorlock and mirror on driver's side only.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by samman11

Yes, all else working properly. Just doorlock and mirror on driver's side only.

Not what you want to hear, but the only thing common to both of the components that I can find is the door control module (driver's side), I believe the functions of the module can all be checked with VAG equipment, so it's not just a fix by trial -
.

[samman11]

You mean the Power door lock motor? And that controls the power mirror as well? How much is that?

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by samman11

You mean the Power door lock motor? And that controls the power mirror as well? How much is that?

No, I don't mean the door lock motor. That is actually another module (F220 -Door Lock Module). The Door Control Module shown in my first post, is the component common to both the mirror and the door lock unit pictured here, which contains the motor and five microswitches which control different things. Actually your lock issue sounds like a microswitch issue, but it would have nothing to do with the operation of the mirror, so I am looking elsewhere. Are you sure these incidents occured simultaneously? Or could the mirror control already have been out? These switches are very problematic in these cars, but since your mirror motor went out simultaneously, it leads one to believe it is a failure of a component common to both.

If the Door Control Module requires replacement, it is integral with the window motor (neither is servicableable/replaceable individually. The original components are cheaper to manufacture that way and their repair garners more money. I think the numbers I have seen to replace either the Door Control Module or the Door Lock Module are in the $300-$400 range. As I said, I believe both these modules can be "read" by Vag diagnostic equipment to check their integrity.

Typically failure of these units is caused by abuse (door slamming). Think of dropping your laptop on the floor everytime you go to open it or close it. These doors close very easily and people tend to inadvertently slam them.

I can give you links to how these components work, but I don't think that is the information you are looking for.
.

[samman11]

Damn. I never slam the door, but my son has taken the car now and then. Oh well, I'll know more tomorrow after the dealer looks at it. Yes, both the mirror and the door lock stopped working at the same time.

[Smileybug]

I wouldn't say that failure is due to abuse. I've been around VWs awhile and the microswitch failure is super common in all Mk4 cars, well cared for or not. I think that its a poorly made part that is just prone to failure.

The price is more for the dealer to do it I believe. I paid $450 for the dealer to replace one of my modules. The part should be around $100, certainly less than $150. And its an undertaking but certainly a DIY project.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

somewhat, but to clarify, fyi.

Abuse, may not be the right term. However, NB doors close and latch with very little force required. Don't believe me? Next time you get in your car, try to see just how little closing force you can apply and still close and latch the door. Then compare that to how much force you TYPICALLY apply to close the door. I am always asking people to not slam the doors, generally after hearing the door being slammed. Everyone hold up their hand with broken or cracked interior door pulls, or, if not yet, look at where the pull is welded to the door panel for cracking. Keep slamming the door... just a matter of time.

And this slamming does NOT cause the solder joints to fail, it just exacerbates them once the fractures start. Failure of good solder joints is common after prolonged periods of temperature cycling (it's called fatigue), and is not an indication of poor quality. It is the nature of the beast. No doubt the reason VW has never bellied up to the bar and taken anykind of responsibility for their problematic failure.

SB, you're right, probably a $150 or less part, once it is determined which part has failed. Diagnostics cost money, equipment investment and time, R&R also takes time. Dealers and Independent Shops are in business to make a profit, Independents simply operate with less overhead so they typically don't need as much profit margin.

M.

[ktudor7]

Originally Posted by samman11

Help. Is this just a reset that would solve this? Both the driver's side power doorlock AND the driver's side sideview power mirror stopped working at the SAME TIME on my 2005 Convertible. Is this a fuse? Can this be reset like I once reset my rear window (only went down halfway and was reset by disconnecting battery cables and then reconnecting? Please chime in and let me know before I go to the dealer. Thank you to all.

Just wanted to know if you ever got this fixed, I can't find the part...

Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette

somewhat, but to clarify, fyi.

Abuse, may not be the right term. However, NB doors close and latch with very little force required. Don't believe me? Next time you get in your car, try to see just how little closing force you can apply and still close and latch the door. Then compare that to how much force you TYPICALLY apply to close the door. I am always asking people to not slam the doors, generally after hearing the door being slammed. Everyone hold up their hand with broken or cracked interior door pulls, or, if not yet, look at where the pull is welded to the door panel for cracking. Keep slamming the door... just a matter of time.

And this slamming does NOT cause the solder joints to fail, it just exacerbates them once the fractures start. Failure of good solder joints is common after prolonged periods of temperature cycling (it's called fatigue), and is not an indication of poor quality. It is the nature of the beast. No doubt the reason VW has never bellied up to the bar and taken anykind of responsibility for their problematic failure.

SB, you're right, probably a $150 or less part, once it is determined which part has failed. Diagnostics cost money, equipment investment and time, R&R also takes time. Dealers and Independent Shops are in business to make a profit, Independents simply operate with less overhead so they typically don't need as much profit margin.

M.

Same question- I have looked at the VW dealer online, rockauto, autozone and Advance Auto and can't find the "Door Control Module". Do I need to go to the dealer with my VIN for this part?

Thanks in advance. BTW, my 2004 has the same symptoms, keyless entry stopped working on the driver side and I didn't know the mirror didn't work until I tried using it. Also hadn't put together they both failed at the same time and it was the same component until I read this page.

UPDATE: I called the dealer for the part, the part alone is $377.xx, does that sound right? I thought the part was around $100-$150, or is that just for the door lock actuator?

[ktudor7]

Is it possible a couple of the dip switches got knocked out of place from closing the door to hard? As far as I know a dip switch is a switch that can be moved from one position to another. Anyone?

Can anyone confirm a part number from the dealer on this?

[ktudor7]

How do I take the door panel off?