New Bug, New Questions!

[Little Yellow Bug]

Hi everyone,

Just bought a bug for my girlfriend: 2002 GLS 2.0 / yellow w/ auto tranny and 60k on it. Found a "steal-deal" on craigslist.. listed for $4k+ was hit in the front, ran the carfax and indeed original miles with an accident reported: it hit a barrier, so the front bumper and hood was replaced. Ended up knocking the price down to 3k, and drove off. Had minor imperfections here and there that let me do that: for e.g. the hood wouldn't lock with the latch (nightmare to fix but fixed it), leak in exhaust (welded in a new flex pipe), wipers were missing (replaced) and had about a 3" crack in the lower pillar on the right side (patched and repainted), changed tires, all brake pads, alignment etc... so now it's registered and my girlfriend loves it

anyways, here's the issues:

AIRBAG LIGHT IS ON (ARRGHH)
- My guess is that it's the clockspring, since the horn randomly goes off when driving so i pulled the fuse and here's what I get for code:

00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

can anyone help me with that?

Next, is the check engine light. It wasn't on when I bought it, but after poking around under the hood and driving some, i got it with the MAF code. I forgot which code it was, but googling concluded that its MAF sensor. I changed the air filter, cleaned the sensor with the MAF cleaner from adnace auto parts (while battery was unplugged) drove it for 2 days and it came back on just now! Popped the hood, and noticed theres a little hose/tube right under the sensor/air filter assembly that came off and is loose when connected back... ill fix it with a clamp, but could that be the problem?

Also, I wanted to know if the timing belt + water pump should be replaced? Just turned 60k miles. Engine and tranny run really smooth.

That's all i can think of so far.. In advance I want to thank you all for helping me out, I'm looking forward to hearing from you!! Thanks again!!

[Unbeatleble]

yea, mine was a hit also, air bag light is on, I'm assuming the air bags we're replaced? seems that the drivers deployed, the air bag computer is located front center floor, behind where the cups go, I have my air bag computer out, as far as i know, there are some that can reset that computer for you, but up here in canada, i talked with vw dealer, and they can do it for 500 bucks, and that's them programming it and replacing it with a new computer, but if you didnt replace the driver's air bag, probley best to check the connections, cause sometimes when the air bag deployes, it burns and melts the connector to the air bag(steering wheel one)

[Little Yellow Bug]

hey thanks!

my buddy has the whole VAG-COM cable and software, he cleared all codes and what noe, but the light is on. I didn't touch the steering wheel yet, or checked if the airbag's are even there... just hearing from people, everyone's saying that's ts the clockspring since both the horn is going off randomly by itself and the airbag light is on...

[dnyed]

The TB/WP is most likely original. Even with the low miles, the belt is 10 years old. It would be a good idea to change it out.


Thank you for resurrecting that New Beetle. It will give you and/or your girlfriend, many happy, fun miles.

[nitroman]

Also consider changing the auto trans fluid and filter as well If that's the 01M 4 speed automatic it's prone to failure so keeping fresh fluid in there will make it last longer. I think originally VW stated it's "lifetime" fluid which is just BS (even some revised specs say 100K which is probaby still too long).

[IndyTom]

X2 what others have already mentioned.

Timing Belt and Water Pump service needs to be done before you have catastrophic failure.

Also X2 on the Transmission fluid. Flush it now and replace with fresh VW approved fluid. It will make that infamously treadful 01M transmission live a little longer.
Don't forget the Differential fluid which is separate from the Automatic transmission.

Good Luck and Welcome to the Org.

Newbie Welcome Kit!

[Little Yellow Bug]

dang!

so change tranny fluids + filter,

timing belt + water pump??

i thought vw was better than this... my 02 civic has 105k on it and had nothing similar... i think the most expansive thing i did with is is fill up. and even with that, it's amazing on gas.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Little Yellow Bug

dang!

so change tranny fluids + filter,

timing belt + water pump??

i thought vw was better than this... my 02 civic has 105k on it and had nothing similar... i think the most expansive thing i did with is is fill up. and even with that, it's amazing on gas.

The maintenance on an older New Beetle is a lot more intensive than on a Honda or Toyota. But they are fun cars and we who own them don't mind giving them a little more of our attention.

The timing belt, Water pump service is just regular maintenance just as brakes and tires. If you don't replace those in time they can leave you stranded as well. The timing belt is most overlooked since the car will continue to drive normally until it breaks and then your valves meet the pistons and major engine damage occurs which will cost you a few thousand bucks to fix. Rule of thumb is 5 years or 60k miles on the timing belt. Sure you can stretch that to about 75k miles but I wouldn't go much past that. Also people think just because they have low mileage on the engine that timing belt is fine. WRONG. It's made out of rubber and if your car has 40k miles on the engine but is 10years + old then you are living on borrowed time. It's better to pay a little when it's due rather than a lot when it's past due

The Automatic transmission service is just common sense. I mean who would think that that fluid in there would last forever? That is just crazy talk. Use your noodle and think.
Replacing the automatic transmission fluid every 40k miles will make that auto tranny last a lot longer. You wouldn't let your oil sit in the crankcase for 100,000 miles why do you think your transmission fluid would ever last that long?

Any older, high mileage car will have it's issues regardless if it's a VW or a Honda. It just depends on how you take care of the car.

[Little Yellow Bug]

thanks IndyTom,

I definitely agree with you...

anyways, I will be regarding the mentioned issues asap, but in the meantime here's what I got for codes:

P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High Input

P0202
Injector Circuit / Open - Cylinder

P0135
o2 Sensor Heater Bank 1 Sensor 1

Can anyone direct me what to do next/where to start? Really looking forward to get it back in working order.

Thank You so much in advance, and too all you guys with your input so far. Really appreciated.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Little Yellow Bug

thanks IndyTom,

I definitely agree with you...

anyways, I will be regarding the mentioned issues asap, but in the meantime here's what I got for codes:

P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High Input

P0202
Injector Circuit / Open - Cylinder

P0135
o2 Sensor Heater Bank 1 Sensor 1

Can anyone direct me what to do next/where to start? Really looking forward to get it back in working order.

Thank You so much in advance, and too all you guys with your input so far. Really appreciated.

The P0103 is a MAF Sensor code. TAke off the Mass airflow sensor and clean it with some MAF or electronic cleaner.
If that doesn't help you may need to replace it.

Here is a list of MAF sensor depending on your Engine Code:

OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning

The second code P0202 could be because of the faulty MAF but it could also be an issue with one of your fuel injectors. I would check the spark plugs and wires for any problems.

Possible causes

- Fuel Injector 2 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection

- Faulty fuel injector
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Code P0135 points to a faulty O2 sensor. Sensor Number 1 which is the pre cat sensor.

Check the connection to the sensor and also check your Catalytic converter. If it is bad it could throw that code as well. When it goes the ceramic inside superheats and breaks up into smaller pieces and then clogs the exhaust system. You can try and shake it a bit and see if it rattles. If it does it is more than likely toast. If not than it's just your Pre cat O2 sensor.

Good Luck

[Little Yellow Bug]

indyTom thanks!!!

While I was checking the hood, I noticed there's a hose/tube right below the MAF sensor that came off, and needs a clamp or something to be tight... could that be causing any of this?

[Little Yellow Bug]

also is the o2 sensor under the car next to exhaust?

if so,
i remember we disconnecting it (it was under a black plastic cap) when welding the flex pipe in... maybe lose connection?

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Little Yellow Bug

indyTom thanks!!!

While I was checking the hood, I noticed there's a hose/tube right below the MAF sensor that came off, and needs a clamp or something to be tight... could that be causing any of this?

any hose off or loose can cause vacuum leaks so yes. It can cause issues. Not sure which hose you are referring to but I would replace it and see where it takes you.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Little Yellow Bug

also is the o2 sensor under the car next to exhaust?

if so,
i remember we disconnecting it (it was under a black plastic cap) when welding the flex pipe in... maybe lose connection?

There is one that comes right off the exhaust manifold and one that sits right after the cat. The code you have points to the Number 1 O2 sensor (pre cat) but I would check the connections on both.

[Little Yellow Bug]

Thanks, will do tomorrow.


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