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Check engine light with Code: P0411

8K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  bme 
#1 ·
Please can anyone tell me how to fix this? And how much it may cost to do so?
Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Moost likely cause is the air pump output hose is broke near the back of the motor.

Easy DIY repair, maybe just a screw drive to pry a hose clamp midway on the pipe from a bracket. No tools needed, just finger for either end of pipe.

In the short term duct tape can be used to repair the hose. Best to remove and tape, the reinstall. The hose is a dealer item, online price is about $55-$60 as I recall, list price is like $85?

Tape will hold for a while and code will likely clear itself after 20 starts or so once the pipe is replaced or repaired.

I may have my old pipe still laying around and can probably find the part number as well.

Black hard plastic corrugated pipe from air pump near radiator that is routed back toward the driver side firewall, kind of near the brake master cylinder.
 
#3 ·
secondary air pump

pump itself could be bad or air leakage somewhere's. Double check hose connections, you have to hear the little plastic thingy snap when you put them back on or it's not a good connection. If it's an old car check your Cambi valve for blockage also. Good luck man...........and welcome to newbeelte.org here is a picture of what to look for i believe this is the intake hose
 

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#6 ·
pump itself could be bad or air leakage somewhere's. Double check hose connections, you have to hear the little plastic thingy snap when you put them back on or it's not a good connection. If it's an old car check your Cambi valve for blockage also. Good luck man...........and welcome to newbeelte.org here is a picture of what to look for i believe this is the intake hose
One of those ends from the picture posted is somehow snaped. I will replace that immidiately, what is the part number or original name? Thanks
 
#5 ·
Step one, diagnose it. Reading a fault code is only the beginning.

16795/P0411/001041 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Have you done an Output Test to verify the ECM can operate the Sec Air Inj relay and that the pump comes on? Could the Kombi valve be clogged up with carbon? Bad vacuum line?

While I've seen those charge pipes as shown in the post above go bad, it isn't the most common problem IMHO.

We can all spout out suggestions based on a single fault code, but the correct answer really depends on what the actual failure is.
 
#7 ·
On mine, that I taped with electrical tape, was the end also it was cracked and while trying to fix it it snapped off completely. I then, just like I stated, just taped it and it has been going strong for over 15,000 miles with no codes and no problems. I still need to replace the part to make sure it is fixed correctly but I just keep forgetting about it as it giving me no issues.
 
#10 ·
You can spend anywhere from $25 to $400 very easily.

I would recommend not going much above $100, others will tell you differently.

You can also go to Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, O'Rielly and you can usually borrow a reader.

If you have an Android phone or tablet, the Torque Pro app for $5 along with the ELM327 Bluetooth adapter from Amazon for $15 is a good start.

My favorite stand along generic scan tool is the Launch CReader VI, you can find it for as cheap as about $84 from Asia on ebay, this is where I purchased mine. Otherwise this same tool can cost you as much as $120 from Amazon or other places here in the US. Make sure you get the CReader VI not the cheaper and older CReader V if this is the way you choose to go.
 
#11 ·
LOL the joke is on the voters--not in Kalifornia--the very busy full time legislature has deemed it fit to pass another law restricting the freedoms of its citizens in the realm...the Auto Zones et al are forbidden to loan out the diagnostic computers to the masses...buwahahahaaaa tyranny strikes again!
 
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