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Old 02-21-2011, 01:25 AM
Opelmania's Avatar
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Question Alligator Paint on Interior Parts

I'm in the middle of my interior painting project and all was well untill my second coat of paint. After the first coat (2 quick coats), I lightly wet sanded with 600 grit and rinsed off the parts. Let them air dry for a while and wiped dry with a paper towel. Got everything put back onto my hanger holder and shoot a final light coat on the parts. As I was finishing up the final parts, I notice some cracking already.

So where did my problem occur? Not cleaning the parts enough? Not letting them dry long enough? Paper towel? Cold paint can from leaving it in the basement?

And where do I go from here? I was planning on sanding all of it down with 400 to smooth it out. Will that be enough or will I have to go down to 320? Then re-spray again.

The first pic is after the first layer of paint and you can see what happend. I think there might be 2 pieces that look decent. Crazy thing is that it isn't on the whole surface of any single piece.

Thanks in advance for any and all input.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:45 AM
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If you leave one little piece of that rubber stuff on it also armor all will cause the same effect and then spray over it. It will react with the paint

thats why i use a brass bristle brush to get all that rubber stuff out of the cracks and cresses on the panels.

Oh i also used a plastic primer before the top coat..

i hope this helps

Super M
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:19 PM
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The thing is it didn't happen until the second spraying. Plus I waited 24 hours and let the paint dry.
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:32 PM
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Dang man

A few reasons why you had that issue:

Humidity/Temp: All painting should be done within the correct temp/rh range.

Moisture left on parts: I never use water to wipe down before painting for that reason. I use denatured alcohol.

Condensation: If the parts were left in a cold area, then brought into a warm area, the surface will get a micro layer of water droplets .

1st coat not fully cured: Though the paint was dry to touch, it wasn't fully cured. When the first layer dries, it actually shrinks, so the top layer, i.e. second coat will pull away from the bottom coat. Hope the way I explained it makes sense
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:34 PM
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This is only my second painting project and my first one I did in summer time. Didn't even think about that. Looks like my plan to put everything back on this weekend won't happen. I'll just take my time in-between coats. Thanks PG!
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:49 PM
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Anytime

Everybody has their own little tips, tricks, and secrets when it comes to painting.

Most of what I've learned has come from painting boats and buoys oh, and the occasional paint school

When I rattle can something, I keep the part and primer/paint in the same room overnight, so they are the same temp.

When I'm ready to paint, I'll wipe down w/ denatured alcohol and hit it with a tack cloth. Once the primer goes down, I wait the reccomended time till I put the first color coat down, normally between 30-60mins...It varies from primer to primer. Anyhow, I apply the first color coat very light, so light that the primer can still be seen. I'll wait between 20-45mins before the nxt coat, again it varies from paint to paint for the recoat time. Then, I apply another coat [3 coats total}. I then wait a FULL week, sand it w/ 600 grit very lighty, then wipe down w/ denatured alcohol, hit it with a tack cloth and then clear coat it.

Again, the above is just how I do it.

Some people will sand the primer before the top coat...

Some people will apply clear coat 30-45mins after the last top coat...

Some people will sand between top coats...

It's just a matter of preference, lol.

You can always get yourself a 2 liter coke bottle to practice on...It's what I do when I'm using a brand of primer/paint that I've never used bere
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:14 AM
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Got done sanding the parts down with 400. Looks like I got all of it off but I saw some weird spots on them. I'm going to clean it with alcohol and see what it looks like. If it still looks weird, another sanding and maybe bring it down to 280. I figure I'll throw color on again over the weekend. I think I won't sand in between color coats , but I do intend on sanding with 1500 between clear coats.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:33 PM
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1. What brand of paint are you using?
2. Don't sand in between colors/clears
3. PalmettoGuy was correct on the 2 coats working against each other if the first coat isn't fully cured. I used Rustoleum sunrise red and it took longer to cure/dry than any other paint I have ever worked with and it did the same thing! I had to end up baking the part in between coats in the oven, but I was working with metal so melting wasn't an issue. As far as the sanding between coats, it isn't necessary. The only reason you sand a color is to get sand it OFF or sand it SMOOTH. You only care about smooth AFTER the last coat is sprayed and FULLY CURED! If you put 3-4 good coats of clear over your color (you only need 2 good coats of color if you are putting clear over the top) you leave yourself enough clear to wetsand through about 1 coat. But with the size of the pieces you are painting, the clear should level out enough to not have to sand. If you sand, you have to buff and polish out the sanding marks which equals more work.
If I were you, if the paint is fully cured/dry, I would sand it until you think you have most if not all the crinkle out of the paint. Then shoot a heavy coat of high build sandable primer. When the primer dries, wet sand with the 400 grit you already have until you're sure all of your previous sanding marks and crinkle are gone. Then spray again with the red with 2 coats. First coat= very very light. almost just a mist.
Second coat= just heavy enough not to run. The more coats you put on, the greater your risk of having the same problem again.
I wouldn't do a clear for at least a few days with the problem you are having with that paint. Unless you can find an area to put the parts that is around 100 degrees or so till they are fully cured. If you think the paint is fully dry, on an inconspicuous spot, push the corner of your fingernail on the paint, if the paint "dents" where your fingernail was, it isn't ready. Like PalmettoGuy said, everyone has there own technique or way they prefer to do it and this is what I had to go through with the Rustoleum sunrise red. It was a major PITA but worth it in the end. Good luck and sorry I wrote a book on your thread

Last edited by Wingnut_rb; 02-24-2011 at 10:38 PM..
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:18 PM
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I am using Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover Paint. I have primer and clear in the exact same model. I just got done sanding again last night with 220 grit and most of the shiny parts are gone. I'm going to sand again with 220 at lunch today. Then I'll reshoot with the primer and start again with adding color tomorrow waiting about an hour in-between coats. I figure I will clear it either Tuesday or Wednesday night and hopefully have everything back in the car on Saturday. Thanks for all of the advice and kind of glad to see it happened to you as well with the Rust-Oleum. Have you tried Krylon for plastic? A guy at work claims its the bees knees. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:29 PM
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For the most part, I stick with what I know. Up until that particular incident with the red Rustoleum, I never had a problem with that brand so that's what I usually use. I have not tried the Krylon for plastic yet.
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:45 PM
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This is a Candy Apple Red. I love the color and think it is almost a perfect match. The can has 2x coat coverage plastered on the front and I found it at Menard's. I tried to get it at Wally World, but they didn't have that exact one. I think it might be a new type.

Thanks to Super M, PG, and Wingnut for your input and I hope this helps someone else. I'll keep you guys updated.
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:50 PM
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Here is the piece I had paint issues with...this is AFTER the paint issues obviously.
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:50 PM
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Update: Sanded everything down again yesterday with 220. Got home and wiped it all down twice with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Wiped them down with a tack cloth and put the pieces on their hangers and brought them in the basement. I also added a portable heater down there. I just got done putting primer on and will wait just under an hour to put my first coat of color on.
Pic 1: All parts sanded and clean
Pic 2: Bud vase.
Pic 3: Radio surround. You can still see a little shine.
Pic 4: Primed parts. I'll document these with pics between layers. Wish me luck.
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:40 PM
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First coat of color on. Looking good so far. I went light. First time I went light. I closed the window right after I shot them with color because it was cold down there when I put the color on. I hope I'm ok.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:02 PM
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Just emptied the rattle can. I guess I'm done with color. Looking good I think. I thought I saw some primer underneath, but I basically put 4 light coats on the parts. I so want to bring a least one part up to look at it in daylight, but its snowing here anyway. Here is a pic.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:11 PM
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I took a closer look at the parts about 15 minutes after the final coat and if I look close, I could see dark spots with my work light. I brought the pieces upstairs in the somewhat daylight 3 hours later, and they looked like it covered well. Here is a pic of the ps grab handle end outside in the light. This one turned out real nice. Let the curing time begin.
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:31 PM
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Great Job

Those turned out really nice...
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:24 AM
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Looking great!
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:21 PM
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Thanks PG and MiG for the compliments. It means a lot with how much of a PITA this turned out to be. Well after almost 24 hours of dry time, and 12 pieces and the problems I had, I am happy with how they turned out. They are not perfect, but in the car and the overall effect will more than likely hide the imperfections that I see. You are your worst critic. I have a couple of "rough" spots from dust and might lightly sand with 1500 grit on Tuesday night before I clear on top of it. What do you guys think? I took a few pictures but only 1 came out decent of the radio surround. What a difference from the "cracked" look.
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:19 PM
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I think it turned out great.
Once you sand it down and clear coat them, you'll be very happy with the outcome
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