R/R Coolant Flange and Serpentine belt

[rjs77]

I have a 2.0 beetle and I have a slight leak from the coolant flange (heart valve). Are there any threads that tell how to remove the flange and replace. I already purchased a new one with the o-ring and seals. I just need to know if I need to drain the coolant to remove/replace this part. Also is the serpentine belt easy to replace myself ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[bobbittle]

I replaced mine (2000 1.8T, don't know if procedure is diff. because of engine) and it was easy enough. We let the engine cool down, pulled the whole air box assembly out of the engine, pulled the flange off and let all the coolant drain out, pulled the hoses, put the new flange on careful not to overtighten the bolts, replaced all the hoses, started the car and topped off with g12 coolant as the level dropped as the car warmed up. Took less than an hour. We didn't quite tighten the bolts tight enough so mine still leaks a little bit (need to retighten, anyone know what to torque them to?), but other than that it was easy. Draining the coolant would probably make the job easier overall but we were on my friends gravel driveway and he didn't feel the need to.

[blue'99]

I don't know where VW came up with the name "flange", as it's the water outlet that also leaked on mine, and I quit when the pipe from the block to the heater had to be removed to get the "flange off. The stealership has it now, and I was quoted $250.00 ot replace it!!!!!
I am still wondering why VW puts the thermostatt at the inlet of the engine (at the end of the lower radiator hose) instead of the outlet (to the top of the radiator) that every car builder has done for 100 years??????
Earl

[blue'99]

Just to add to the last post, the stealer called this A.M. to let me know the water pump is bad (probably caused the overheat that broke the "flange". It,s considered part of the 100,000 mile warrentee extended to the original owner of 1998-1999 2.0 beetles so that won't cost me, but I also griped about noisy lifters, or a worn cam, as the lifters were replaced once before, and I'll bet the intake r&r will be charged to me as part of the "flange" repair even if they had to remove it to look at the cam & lifters
Earl

[blue'99]

Originally Posted by Porkchop

The flange is held on with a couple of 10mm nuts. But that isn't the hard part. The hard part is getting all the hoses off. They'll be "stuck" on. I use a cotter pin puller wedge between the flange and the hose to separate it from the plastic. Then you have to get all of the hoses back on and the spring clamps. It's definitely a DIY sort of thing, but one that will take time and be very frustrating.

On the serpentine belt, you just need a 15mm and ideally you want a helper. Put the 15mm wrench on the square tab on the top of the tensioner and pull back towards yourself. The helper can hold that while you put the new belt on. I recommend taking the skid plate off when you do this since it is easier to work from underneath. Replacement takes 30 seconds. My wife was my helper with the baby in one arm and holding the wrench with the other.

It's a 1 man job from the top with a 12" piece of 3/4"square steel tubing instead of the 15mm wrench, and the use of a hardened pin, a small drift works well, in the holes provided to hold the tensioner in the "loose" position. The holes line up when you take the tension off the belt.
The belt can easily be installed without going under the car!
Earl

[blue'99]

Originally Posted by Porkchop

I did not say it could not be done with one person. But for someone who is asking HOW to put on a serpentine belt, that is not someone who is going to easily do this from the top with one hand hold the tenisoner and the other positioning the belt.

I was offering a suggestion on an easy way to do it with a wrench found in most anyone's toolbox.

I use a 3 foot tensioner tool with a crowfoot socket myself - but there is not reason for anyone to run out and buy a special tool (or to make one as you advocate) for a belt change that happens once every 4 or so years.

Pardon moi, I was only offering an alternate method, from the top, utilizing the mfg'rs holes to facilatate the easy R7R of the belt!
I was not trying to make an issue of "how to" out of it Porkchop, Just as an alternative route to take.
Earl

[blue'99]

Originally Posted by Porkchop

The flange is held on with a couple of 10mm nuts. But that isn't the hard part. The hard part is getting all the hoses off. They'll be "stuck" on. I use a cotter pin puller wedge between the flange and the hose to separate it from the plastic. Then you have to get all of the hoses back on and the spring clamps. It's definitely a DIY sort of thing, but one that will take time and be very frustrating.

On the serpentine belt, you just need a 15mm and ideally you want a helper. Put the 15mm wrench on the square tab on the top of the tensioner and pull back towards yourself. The helper can hold that while you put the new belt on. I recommend taking the skid plate off when you do this since it is easier to work from underneath. Replacement takes 30 seconds. My wife was my helper with the baby in one arm and holding the wrench with the other.

Hey Porkchop, In a previous post you touted using some exotic wrench to change the belt, why did you need the wife "holding the child" to help??? Could it be that you were unaware of the holes for a pin???
Earl

[rjs77]

Thanks to everyone that replied. I appreciate it. Thanks for both methods, just in case I don't have a helper.

I received the flange with both a spare o-ring and 2 rubber rings for the sensors. I was thinking about just replacing the o-ring and not even touch the hoses on the flange. I did not get the new clips for the sensors since they were not available.

By the way, it seems like there are a load of wires/tubes in front of the flange kinda in the way of getting to the nuts. Anyway to move these or just work with them in the way ?

As for the belt, just wondering if this belt is commonly available at a local parts store, AutoZone or Strauss Auto. If not I will just order online.

Thanks again for all your help.
RS

[rjs77]

Well, I got the flange nuts off and successfully moved the coolant hose out of the way. I pulled the flange away from the engine and saw that the o-ring was shot and very soft. I also noticed that there is what seems like a chipped inside flange edge right where it seems like it was losing coolant. I tried unsuccessfully to remove the clamps and hoses. No way I could do it. So I tried the next best thing and just replaced the o-ring.

I know that's not the best thing to do but there was just no way to pull the hoses off without recking something else or it taking all day.

I re-attached the flange and all seems ok now, no leak except for the residual coolant that ran down the engine.

If it leaks again, I will have to take it to a garage to have a Pro do it. Maybe it's worth it.

As for the belt, no problem, took literaly a minute to install with a helper (my lovely wife).

Thanks for all your help.
RS