No heat of a/c

[SAMPO]

Does anybody know which relay would control the blower for a 2.0 5peed, and if possible could you provide some insight on what could be happening... I lost my cooling during the summer, and now my heat is gone...basically no air is coming out of my vents. Yes I made sure they were all open...
Thanks in advance for all the help.

[Beetlemania]

I'm looking through my service manual, but I'm not finding it right now. Sorry!

But welcome to the .org! There's a guy at work I call Sampo. I heard the name in an episode of Mystery Science Theater 3000.

There are some people on here that really know their stuff. I just have some of the infomation in print, but I'm not always good at finding it. Do you hear the blower working? Does your recirculation button do anything?

[hako]

I've also misplaced the manual but first I'd check those big fuses and connectors situated on top of the battery - they can and do fail causing cooling and heating problems. Also check your other fuses inside the drivers door opening on the side of the dashboard.

[SAMPO]

I hear the recirculator opening and closing and when I am at high enough speed I get air coming in when the recirculator is turned off, as far as the cooling fans are concerned they are fine, I'll check the fuses in engine bay also.
Thanks again.

[dvious]

My A/C went out on my DYCC and they replaced the whole fuse box on top of the battery. It was under warranty though so I didn't have to diagnose it myself.

[Beetlemania]

I just had to pay to have that fuse box replace (bad battery cable, not the fuse box, but they're all connected on my car) and it ran me just under $200. So if that's the fix, there's the price.

[rabsol1]

Hi Folks! Newbie to the forum, glad to be here...

Same problem here, 99 2.0 Auto, no blower fan on a/c or heat. Blower motor checks fine, no power on blower or resistor circuits. Fuses on Dr. side of dash seem to all check out good. The fuse panel/box on top of the battery concerns me though. All of the large bolt-in fuse strips check good, but one of the 3 blade-type fuses has been rather warm, evident by the deterioration of the material surrounding the fuse socket. Looks like it has been so warm that the battery cover/plate that the fuse panel snaps onto even has a light trace of heat damage.

So, the panel is most likely to need replaced? I believe the blade-type fuse that shows heat/resistance problems is the one closest to the bolt-in strips (sorry, prior owner must have discarded the cover for this fuse panel, I am unsure ) Would this happen to be a fuse for the blower motor???

Not meaning to hijack, but actually to add even more depth to the topic, since it seems to be a potential area of problem. Thanks for your time in advance, and Have a Great Day!

[hako]

I'm not sure if those fuses are the ones for the blower but they will need refurbishing anyway before they fail (if they haven't already!) Fuses can look OK but the real test is whether they can carry their rated load....cheap blade fuses use mild steel instead of brass for the blade part and these will corrode quicktime.

[SAMPO]

I know for a fact that one of the "Green" fuses inside the engine bay control the ABS system, so I wouldn't wait to long to replace that box if it already has signs of heat damage, you don't want the car catching fire, I think there is a guy on the ORG. that had it happen to him and his bug was burnt to a crisp. I actually had my ABS system go bad, and the first thing the stealership did was replace that box...I mean that was the main problem.

[rabsol1]

Thanks for the info, folks! Just ordered a new battery-top fuse panel. Sad about the one that caught fire & burnt. So, I take it this is an frequent problem?

And yet, I am still wondering if one of the fuses in that panel would be the "probable" source of having no blower motor power?

Regardless, that fuse panel is being replaced...I'm just one who tends to be a bit obsessive over electrical diagnosis...LOL

Thanks again!

[SAMPO]

It would be really nice to know if one of those green fuses did control the blower, I would love if someone could post something in regards to what they control, like I said, I know one of them, the middle I think controls the ABS system.

[hako]

According to my Haynes (not too highly regarded!), the 110amp one is first in line to the blower - so if its cactus the blower is too. Next is fuse 25 (25amp). Hope this helps.

[SAMPO]

I don't mean to be a dunce or anything but when I pulled out the fuses last night they all had 30's on them, which I assume is indicative of the amperage, but I feel that they info you just gave me is right on the money, I'm a visual person, can someone provide some pics maybe as to which one specifically is the 110amp. Thanks a heap.

[rabsol1]

Just an quick update:

Battery-top fuse panel has been replaced with a NEW panel (Ebay, $80 + $7 shipping).

Still NO blower fan, at all. A/C does not come on either.

Still diagnosing as best I can...will keep you posted.

Any thoughts or suggestions???

Thanks in advance!

[HungLo]

to sort of answer everyone's question... I had the same exact issue... No blown fuses, etc etc... One fine day I decided to take apart the dash, and the heater controls.. Turns out that when I last painted the knobs, when I pulled the middle one which controls the power for the whole system, the contacts on the inside got dislodged somehow. So, I removed the front plate, and made sure that the flat metal peice attached to the black circular peice where the knob attaches, that has to be inbetween the two metal surfaces inside the hvac controls. When you hack up the dash, and remove the front plate it makes sense... I wish I had taken pictures... Once I moved that peice back to the proper spot, my heat and ac worked again... Probably took less than 30 minutes to do...

[hako]

Sampo - here are the pix of the fuses.
Regards

[schipster]

This is exactly what happened to me this past weekend.....I went to turn up the heat, and it felt as if the switch jumped off track and now i have no control of the heat or a/c. I will be ripping apart the dash asap. I also have the a/c button jammed somehow. Must have been my attitude after the heat did not blow. I wish we can go back to standard non-digital. Give me something i can bang on.

[Jeremy Toaster]

Originally Posted by HungLo

to sort of answer everyone's question... I had the same exact issue... No blown fuses, etc etc... One fine day I decided to take apart the dash, and the heater controls.. Turns out that when I last painted the knobs, when I pulled the middle one which controls the power for the whole system, the contacts on the inside got dislodged somehow. So, I removed the front plate, and made sure that the flat metal peice attached to the black circular peice where the knob attaches, that has to be inbetween the two metal surfaces inside the hvac controls. When you hack up the dash, and remove the front plate it makes sense... I wish I had taken pictures... Once I moved that peice back to the proper spot, my heat and ac worked again... Probably took less than 30 minutes to do...

Can you be more specific as to what you adjusted? Are you talking about the knob that controls the fan speed? The 1 2 3 4 knob? If so, you are saying on the back of that knob there are some metal connectors that send juice to the controls and they just weren't touching properly?

Cause I just replaced my entire blower motor behind the glove box and still no blowing...

Also, on the battery terminal fuses. I have a 98 gas, I only have one Green fuse inserted. Should there be more? I had my fuse box replaced as well cause it melted...

[DanielComp]

The terminals in my fuse block (above the battery) shorted and burned a hole in the block. I replaced the block. I still don't have a heater fan or AC. I do have radiator cooling fans. I'm told that replacing the fan relay (below the battery) will do the trick. hasa anyone confirmed this? The parts $150+ to experiment with.

[HungLo]

It is not the blower motor itself. The HVAC control unit has the knobs attached to it. The actual knob for the 1-2-3-4 is connected to a black circular piece inside the hvac unit. This black circular piece has a small flat plate attached. This piece needs to be inbetween the copper pieces. When mine was not working it was outside the fittings. The black circular piece with the flat silver piece needs to be in contact with BOTH copper pieces... I know it sucks without pictures. It might be easier to just replace the actual control module where you select the temperatures. Did you remove the knobs prior to the malfunction to paint the knobs or anything like that? Thats how mine got messed up.