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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2008, 11:07 PM
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Had the same problem with my bug (02). Pulled the release lever, and the door won't pop. I had a friend pull it, and the thing inside the cover pulls all the way in. Replaced the spring (at the dealer), and it still doesn't pop.
Me, I'm just gonna take the thing out so it won't lock. I've never had anyone steal my gas before, I'm not too worried now.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 09:10 PM
AlyRegistered Member Aly is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Unhappy Fuel door club

Seems I'm a new member to this club, read the posts, went out and pulled off the round cover.... pulled on the wire.. and nothing.... will most definitely try the credit card solution .. tried a nail file and no go.... this is really frustrating
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2009, 07:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Default My Fix

Try AeroKroil (penetrating oil) on the latch. Activate the swich repeatedly. This gt my door working like new.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2009, 07:37 PM
in love with my bug :)
 
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Overland Park, KS, USA
Car: I drive a 2003 yellow bug... my DREAM car!
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I started having the same problem last night. I finally got it open after about 20 minutes...i tried using a credit card but i guess i didnt insert it far enough. I probably pulled the opener on the driver door about 20 times, and eventually it opened...I could hear it activating but the door did not pop up...I hope it was only a one-time deal??
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2009, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location:
Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
Car: 2000 NB 2.0L Auto
Smile

I had this same problem, although it was a bit more extreme- Used to take between 50~100 clicks of the lil' fuel release button to actually get the thing to fire off and make the squa-REET noise you normally hear when it opens.

Turns out the problem wasn't the cable or the solenoid or the actuator - it was the switch, or rather the cable plugged into it.

I fixed this problem by taking off the door trim on the drivers side (see this thread http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?p=508129 ) and just to test things I plugged the fuel release control wire in to the boot (trunk) release switch.

It was like magic, suddenly my lil fuel door worked every go again!

Just make sure you give it several tests before putting everything back together.

Only drawback I have is that I have left the switches changed around so I sometimes pop the boot when I actually want to fill up with fuel

Hopefully this fix may work for somone else!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2009, 12:46 AM
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Renton, WA, USA
Car: 2003 Turbo S "Sharona"
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Happened to me today, but stuck open. Went to get fuel and door wouldn't close. Thought something was in the way and then noticed the latch was stuck in. Do you think WD40 would work?
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Last edited by Mutato; 02-11-2009 at 12:57 AM..
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 03:33 PM
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i just started having fuel door issues

1. if you are trying to use the emergency fuel door release in the trunk through the circle access hole, you must pull the cable down not towards you. and you must use much more force than you would expect. it actually works great. you may be required to push on the cable and reset the latch after using it, or atleast i was.

2. when i pull my door switch it does not make a noise at all anymore. im gonna try and switch the trunk / fuel switches this weekend.

3. anyone know what wiring system the fuel door is tied into?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by europk View Post
i just started having fuel door issues

1. if you are trying to use the emergency fuel door release in the trunk through the circle access hole, you must pull the cable down not towards you. and you must use much more force than you would expect. it actually works great. you may be required to push on the cable and reset the latch after using it, or atleast i was...
I've have used the manual fuel door release for the last five or so years. For me it is just not worth the cost, pain and effort to replace the cable. Perhaps someday when I am real bored...
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2009, 06:20 AM
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Honestly it's not worth the money to get it fixed by VW. Just push the door closed without latching it; as long as your fuel cap is screwed on tight, it should be fine. The door itself has a spring in it so unless you're going like 100 mph it shouldn't fly open on the road.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:35 PM
TygerDawg
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location:
Commerce Township, MI, USA
Car: 2000 NB TDI
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I'll add my $0.02's worth.
Same problem, thanks for everyone's posts...very informative & helpful.

After oiling, adjusting the spring clip in the catch on the door, having poor wife click the button many times, I just attributed this as a typical German poor design (too much cutesy, too little common sense). For my 2000 NB, I assume the solenoid has "gotten tired" and just won't actuate as well anymore.

This 51-year old engineer said, "Screw it."

I grabbed my abrasive cutoff wheel, stuck it in my electric drill, and completely removed the plastic catch housing on the door itself. Now, the the solenoid-actuated tongue has nothing to catch on. Door closes OK, opens always, and it **LOOKS" like it is locked.

Good enough for for a 9-year old car. Time for a beer.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2009, 02:26 AM
from Margaritaville...'s Avatar
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Location:
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Car: white '99 2.0 GLS stick
Cool

I'm just cuttin' and pastin' the following post of mine from a different thread from months ago:

"I've had that lousy experience in spring of '08.

To make a long story short, I ended up removing the rear plastic trim panels until I was able to get to the point where the release cable (from the cap lid) meets the actuator. The metal framework for this union was loose from the body. The framework has about 1/4" of play atop the body and the screws had worked loose. I put some red threadlock on the screws threads and re-attached the assembly to the body. No problems since..."
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2009, 04:05 PM
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Default Fuel Door

Don't seem to be anything wrong with my cable. It releases as it should.My problem is that the door wont spring up. Look as if the door should be spring loaded. Mine has no resistance when closing or opening. Any suggestions?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2010, 02:56 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Default Fuel Door

I finally got mine to work. This is what I did. Where the little plastic plunger that that latches the door is, file the plastic piece right above it down about 1/4 in. or until the door works. Not easy, I took screwdriver and held the plunger in while I filed the other piece. Once you get it working put a little grease or oil on it. Mine is now working fine. Don't ask be why all of a sudden that piece that has to be filed needs to be shorten after working for 6 yrs because I don't know!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2010, 06:50 PM
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The copper spring inside the door is probably broken and not "popping" the lid up. Needs to be replaced...
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2010, 08:00 PM
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My spring was fine. As soon as I filed off some of the plastic above the plunger everything worked as good as new. Again don't ask me why, I don't know!
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Unhappy VW New Beetle GL fuel door wont open

OMG, I have the same problem. I just purchased my lil silver 2001 New Beetle and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT! I believe I got a fair price for it but when I went to get gas the switch on the driver's side door doesn't open the gas cap and in my case I can't even see the wire in the access panel in trunk. What should I do?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:48 PM
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I have 2001 New Beelte, I don't see that red cable?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:50 PM
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Default Damge to lid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucktastic View Post
bought my 03 used and its got the same issue. I take my Sams club or any not important credit card type card and slip it under the lid near the latch about 2/3 of the way in. Then hit the switch on the door. That causes the door to pop open.

I know its one extra step but the cost of getting the cable replaced is $145 at my local dealer, so it can wait.

Hope that helps and its alot better then prying up the lid which could just cause more damage.
Some guy tried to force open at gas station and bent more door.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 02:17 PM
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Car: 1999 Techno Blue GL 2.0 5-speed (RIP), 1984 Jetta GL TD, 2003 20th GTI
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If you go into the trunk, there is an access panel basically right behind the taillight. If you pop that off, there should be a cable you can pull to get the door open (pull towards the front of the car). Takes a smidge of effort to pull the door open with it, but its easy. Much easier than replacing what needs to be replaced, which requires tearing apart the interior to get to the cable system. Mine stopped working a few months ago and I've been using the cable in the trunk to open it since. I'll likely fix it once it warms up, but its too dang cold to do that now.

PS- using a credit card didn't work for me. A guy at the gas station was nice enough to help me out using a screwdriver but it chipped my paint a little around the door. The cable is a much better way.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2011, 05:06 PM
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Car: Yellow '98 GLS / Lemon Yellow '99 GLS / Reflex Yellow & Sliver '00 GLX Turbo's
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This thread may be of some interest to those of you with fuel door issues.
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