04 new beetle headlight problem

[stevewp]

The low beam on the left side will not light up when I release the emergency brake and the engine is running.

If I pull back on the pull-to-pass lever, the left low beam will come on (in addition to the right).

I have checked all 4 fuses in use by the headlights with a meter - they are all ok.

Here is what I have ruled out:

1. It is not the light bulb since it lights up with the pull-to-pass lever.
2. It is not the ground wire (brown) since the it lights up with the pull-to-pass lever
3. It is not the fuse for this circuit.

From a previous post, I saw that the positive lead goes thru the ignition switch and then thru the parking brake. Since the right low-beam works fine, I have to deduce the problem is between the common junction of the right/left low beam and the fuse for the left low beam.

Can someone tell me where the common junction after the parking plate is and what color the wire for the left low beam leading into the fuse box?

Thanks a lot. I don't want to take this to the dealer for such a silly thing. In the back of my mind, this worked fine until I took it to the dealer for a recall letter- then my light does not work. I am out of warranty on this car. I am not trying to accuse -but I have had problems getting it back from the dealer and something totally unrelated seems to stop working.


Thanks,

Steven

[ST1300A]

When you flash the lights (pull to pass) you are lighting the high beams, not the low.

In all probability you have a burned out left hand low beam filament. You need to change the bulb (search for instructions).

[stevewp]

Ok - thanks - did not realize that. I am working on the car by myself and only look at the lights against the garage door.

I have replaced the bulb and it did not help. I will check for voltage at the fuse box again for that circuit.

It is quite possible that I had saved an old bulb as a reminder to buy a new one and stuck in the previously burned out bulb. This is why I should carry a sharpie at all times.

I did test continuity on both bulbs in my possession and both checked out fine. I guess I can stick them over in the right side as a test.

Thanks,

Steven

[tklagesse67]

Both of mine did the same thing. Low beam filament burnt out. Simple and easy replacement in five minutes with a five dollar bulb at WalMart.

[stevewp]

I went and purchased another bulb - this makes 3 bulbs. All of them pass a continuity check.

Again - I just wanted to repeat that I have no voltage at the fuse block for the left low beam - but the right low beam works. This makes me think there is a common point for the low beams before they split off and one goes to the left low-beam use and the other one goes to the right low -beam.

Does anyone know where this segment is located or what color the wire is? A schematic would be helpful if anyone knows where a schematic is located.

Steven

[stevewp]

Anybody have any direction on this? I need to get the car inspected and passed for licensing. I would hate to take it to a dealer for such a small thing.

[stevewp]

I finally figured this out - it was the actual bulb.

Here are the steps I went thru to isolate this problem. I will skip the part about taking some screws out on the lower dash and the panel above the pedals as this was a complete waste of time.

To setup the test:

1. Block the wheels so the car will no roll.
2. open the fuse door
3. Take out the headlight canister that has a a problem
4. Obtain an automotive test light ($4.00 at walmart) that is long enough to reach from the battery to the fuse panel. If you test light lead is not long enough, use a wire which has alligator clips on both ends.

5. Connect the test light's wire to the negative side of the battery. (some might think they can just find a piece of metal in the door opening and hold a wire to it to connect to ground - I think this really fooled me - I had the best luck running the lead back to the battery. I knew had a good ground.)
6. Remove the fuse from positions 20 and 21 on the fuse panel (left and right low beam)
7. Turn the ignition to ON and release the parking brake. Both of these must be done for the low beam lights to come on - if one of the low beam lights come on - you know you have the circuit active.
8. Touch the point of the test light to the left side of the fuse slot for both position 20 and position 21 (one at a time). The test light should light. This means at least the circuit is good to the fuse block.
9. If this fails, you need to check your connections between the ignition switch thru the emergency brake. (this was not my problem).
10. If this tests ok (you are getting voltage to the fuse block), put the fuses back in and move to the headlight.
11. Remove the connector of the headlight canister and push the test lead point into the yellow wire connector. The light should come on - this means the low beam positive lead wire is working.
12. If this is working, test the negative lead into the canister by attaching the test light lead to the positive side of the battery and touch the test lead point to the brown wire of the connector. If the light comes on, you have good ground into the connector.
13. If both steps 11 and 12 pass, you should take apart the headlight assembly with a torx screwdriver. Only 1 torx screw on the back of canister needs to come out.

14. Repeat steps 11 and 12 - testing the yellow wire with the test lead to negative. Test the brown wire with the test lead to positive. Both should light - if not your problem is somewhere between the canister connector and the spade lugs within the canister.
15. Lastly, take the bulb out but do not touch the bulb with your fingers. Attach a wire to the negative post with an alligator clip - and connect the other end of the alligator lead to the round base of the bulb. Gently touch the center spade of the bulb to the positive side of the battery. The bulb should light. If not it is a bad bulb.

In all consideration, I should have tested number 15 first. I discovered my bulb was bad and the 2 replacement bulbs I purchased were good. I did replace the bulb first but it did not fix the problem - so I thought my problem was a bad connection or a fuse. I should have done 15 first. I think I did not get the bulb in correctly and it was not making a good ground.

I posted on the internet looking for help, studied a schematic in the haynes manual, drove to Milwaukee and back with a burned out headlight and had 3-4 people tell me I have a burned out headilght. All this for not checking the essentials first.


I hope this helps the next guy.

[D2Beetle]

Nice, thorough and well written... should be a no brainer for the next guy/gal.