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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:13 PM
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Found it...just bought the part at the dealer and will see if it fixes my problem too. The plastic must just be slightly cracked (I can't see a crack in it).

Is This The Thermostat Leaking??
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2010, 12:08 AM
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Hi All
Just had my 2002 NB 2.0L give me a check eng light today.
Stopped at Autozone on way home from work and had them plug in and give me the code. The hand held code reader said 1 of 1.
"P1296" on the first line.
"Fuel Air Metering" on the second line.
This code also has something to do with coolant temp???
Help
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2010, 04:27 PM
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Yes, I ended up changing both the t-stat and the temp sensor because just changing the temp sensor did not solve the check engine light problem. Turned out the t-stat was getting stuck open so the engine was running too cold. Better problem to have than it getting stuck closed!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2010, 02:38 AM
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Default Changed temp sensor 059 919 501A only

Ended up getting and changing the temp sending unit (green one) and the check engine light is now off after about 100 miles. Only lost about 1/2 cup of fluid during the change out and it took about ten minutes. Thanks for your help.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2011, 11:57 PM
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Worked perfect!!
The check engine light was on with the same code P1296.
Thank you Autozone for getting me the code.

Changed the Coolant Temperature sensor and all is well.
Once it was changed the light went off on the first start.

Removed horseshoe clip.
Pulled sensor straight up.
Removed o-ring that was still inside hole.
Put in new sensor (green) with o-ring.
Removing wire harness was a little tricky. Didn't want to break it.
Replaced horseshoe clip.
Put on wire harness.
Piece of cake. Like they said, 15 minutes and very little coolant lost.

Total cost with o-ring $24
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2011, 09:35 PM
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This is a great post that saved me a lot of money in repairs.

My check engine light came on with the P1296 error code. I replaced my temperature sensor and the check engine light has been off ever since. The advice and pictures made the replacement easy. Thanks to all of the contributors to this post.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:53 PM
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Smile ScanGauge

Thanks a ton for the helpful hints on taking care of my error code P1296. Nice to know I can get it back on the road without dealing with the stealership.

I've got an '02 New Beetle Sport (1.8T) which I bought new. It's been pretty error free car, but over the years I've had a few issues which I was able to track down and fix with a reasonably inexpensive ScanGauge I bought on Amazon for about $70.

It is a scan tool which will indicate your trouble codes and then lets you reset them, and it can also work as a supplemental set of digital gauges, giving you access to all kinds of cool information like realtime MPG, battery voltage, and water temp, etc. I usually leave it hooked up and use the gauge function. You can even change the display colors to match your gauges.

Hate to sound like a salesman, but the thing paid for itself right after I bought it. I had just installed a new battery and while squeezing it in I must have pulled the electric smog pump connection slightly loose, so the check engine light would come on every 3 days or so. The service rep was telling me it probably had a short and a new one would be about $600. When I went home to think over the major expense I was about to eat I was able to go back through all of the connections and found the loose one.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 06:24 PM
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Default New sensor or just coolant?

Ok so I got the P1296 code after a stop at autozone too. I checked coolant and it was pretty low. Got coolant and filled it. The cel hasn't gone off. So here's my questions

Does the cel go off if it was just low coolant?

How do I know if I need a new sensor?

How serious is the sensor?
Can I wait for the weekend to replace?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 06:34 PM
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The CEL will never go on for just low coolant. There is a separate light for that. The coolant temp sensor isn't super serious, but I'd definitely get it replaced if its the culprit. Do you notice any weird things going on with your coolant light? Staying on longer than it should? Coming back on after it goes off?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2012, 07:45 PM
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No coolant light (blue light) comes on. Everything seems to be fine. Topped off all the fluids, but the cel is still on.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:46 AM
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Blue coolant light coming on is normal when engine is cold. It should stay on for anywhere between 1-2 miles depending on the outside temp and the type of driving you are doing.

If the coolant is low, I think?? that red coolant light will come on and blink in the morning and/or beep as well??

Coolant sensors are replaced all the time when you get engine temperature codes.

What you need to see is if you can get freeze frame data associated with this code and see what the engine coolant temperate was showing. These engines should run about 200-205F/93-96C.

Theses thermostat fail open very often and people have no idea there is a problem until they get a coolant related trouble code and often they read about the coolant temp sensors and replace only the coolant temp sensor. Since these cars do not have engine temp gauges you have NO IDEA what temp the engine is running. You need to get a scan tool that can read real time data and make sure the engine is running warm enough. My car was running between 160-170F and I was not getting any coolant relate trouble codes. Was not until I replaced the stat was I back up to the 200-205F operating temp.

The other common failure point in these cars is the plastic impeller water pump. The pump vanes can break and the plastic impeller can spin on the pump shaft. The nice thing about most of these engines, you can pull the thermostat and see, feel the water pump impeller so you can decide if you need to replace your water pump. If your car have over 75k miles or is more than 8 years old, timing belt and water pump are HIGHLY recommended.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2012, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buglife View Post
No coolant light (blue light) comes on. Everything seems to be fine. Topped off all the fluids, but the cel is still on.
The "Blue" coolant light actually should always come on after the car has been sitting overnight or even for a few hours if it is "Cold" outside.

Swapping the cooling sensor is the easiest thing you ever can do to your Beetle. One 4 Pin connector, One clip and it's out.
Takes about 20 seconds to change. Well, I would recommend doing it when the engine is cold and has been sitting overnight so there is no pressure in the cooling system. That way you shouldn't hardly lose any coolant when you take the sensor out.

Here is a very expensive one:

Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Search > Coolant Sensor > ES#2535452 Coolant Temperature Sensor With O-Ring & Clip - 4 Pin - 059919501AKTU

Even comes with a new O-Ring and a new Clip.

You said your coolant was low? Check for leaks near the Water Pump and Thermostat housing. When is the last time the timing belt and water pump were replaced?
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