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| Questions, Issues, Concerns, or Problems with the New Beetle General discussion of New Beetle features, problems, and issues. |
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. Mine are shots and it is making the same sound at the moment. I'm hoping to have my new suspension installed by the end of this week. ![]() A simple check you can do is open your rear hatch and push down on that side of the car repeatedly to make it "bounce" somewhat. If you hear the clunking then, then you can know which strut to inspect more closely. I narrowed it down to the rear passengerside. When i removed it myself and pressed down on it, it was shot! BARELY even went back to its standard position.
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Got an Engine or Airbag light but can't afford a Vagcom or trip to the dealership? Need help finding a local mechanic or shop? |
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But that doesn't mean you shouldn't check! Weird things happen when you raise or lower your car! Sometimes, not all parts last as long. Or it could be a simple malfunction too.It's worth checking out! ![]() |
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All the above parts that I stated were newly installed are less than a week old
![]() However, I did follow your advice and tried bouncing it. It's solid with next to no give...the rear springs are wagon springs. I could not duplicate the sounds I hear when driving. |
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I'm curious about 2 things however that are off topic. 1) Why did you choose to raise it? It seems lowering is "in" these days. 2) Why did you choose wagon spring? I'm assuming Jetta Wagon? |
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I live in Mass. The roads from here to Maine can get nasty in the winter so I decided to raise it so I wouldnt have to worry about chunks of ice and/or road debris shattering my oil pan. I'm also installing a panzer plate for extra protection.
Yes, they are Jetta wagon springs These ones The springs provide more lift. Between the lift and new springs, I've gained over 4" of clearance. |
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I currently have a defender tech plate myself. Its also a galvanized steel skidplate! It was also about $100 cheaper than the panzer . It was $190 plus shipping. |
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It ships in 2 packages. On is just the plate and the other is just installation hardware. Thats why shipping is so much. That and the fact they ship from Canada. ![]() |
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That looks good installed...
The Panzer plate is 22lbs. I'll call up the defender company tomorrow and see if they can provide the weight of theirs. Ok...... So anyone out there know what could possibly be causing the sounds? Many Thanks |
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It's these guys
![]() Foto from MJM autohaus catalog Rear axle bushings. After 10 years on my bug there was no rubber at all. It was all beaten up we had to burn them out to install new ones. Forward 2 years, and now I need a new ones cause I was cheep and got aftermarket part ( two sets, the oter one I am installing soon with winter tires ). They are $40 to $50, aftermarket, dunno about OEM. My 2 cents Cheers Last edited by Tesla; 11-03-2010 at 12:12 AM.. |
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Oh, almost forgot
![]() Clonking and banging was completely gone for ... say.... well almost two years. Now it's back, big time. It might have something to do with my stiff lowering setup. I still need to test polyurethane ones. ![]() Photos from ECS tuning catalog ![]() |
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Lol, ok, maybe thats why it sounds louder than when I was driving around with a broken rear spring. Didnt know I had a broke spring till I replaced it.
ECS is out of rear bushings till the 5th. While searching their site, I came across "sway bar bushings". May as well get those since I've got TT front control arm bushings coming in the mail. On the site it lists bushings for 21mm AND 23mm sway bars ![]() Is there a way I can tell what size sway bar I have??? Many Thanks |
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23 mm stock
Check out this place MJM AUTOHAUS. They have lots of everything . While there, you might as well save your self some cash and time if you swipe all bushings at once, or at least some. Do both sides, never reinstall bushings or stretch screews. They are cheap parts and you should have some spare. Well.. I do ![]() Check out my page! Cheers |
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Ok, Great. Thank you very much.
![]() Yeah, I have TT bushings for the control arms coming to me tomorrow. I have new sway bar links as well. You're right, I definately want to do all my bushings at once. Bushings are starting to make my head hurt ![]() I've got front control arm bushing coming - Polyurethane I'd like for the rest of the ones I order to be poly as well. I dont see any poly rear axle bushings or poly sway bar bushings on the MJM site. ECS sells poly rear axle bushings but not poly sway bar bushings that are not part of a kit. Autopartwarehouse sells the poly sway bar bushings but not poly rear bushings.... Now I just read that if I replace anything on the sway bar then I need new sub-frame bolts, the only ones I can fine are on ECS and they are 35 bucks. I guess you can say bushingd AND bolts are making my head hurt now... |
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If you don't want banging, clunking and thudding...DON'T get poly bushings. Stock is best.
With the use of the wagon spring in the rear, you are likely topping out the rear shocks, which will cause the symptoms you describe. The Jetta wagon is very rear end heavy. A New Beetle is very light in the rear, so when you use a wagon spring in the back of your NB it sits even higher. Jetta wagons use a longer shock from the factory. The only aftermarket shock that comes in a longer version for the wagon are Koni Reds. That is the shock I used on my car, and I only used regular VR6 Jetta sedan springs which are not as stiff/tall as the wagon springs.
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2000 New Beetle GLS TDI 5 speed swap w/SBC Stg 3 clutch and Dieselgeek short shifter, RC3, PP520's, Eurojet SMIC, 3 bar map, Dieselgeek skidplate, 2" lift w/VR6 springs, 2.5" turbo-back straight pipe "weedburner" side exhaust, air horn, ABD Cup front bumper, HID retrofit, LED tails, Bernt Pod w/McNally gauges. WISH LIST: VNT 17/22 hybrid turbo, RC5 and other silly stuff. |
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