After Putting Gas in the Car, it won't start :(

[BrittanyAndrea]

I just got my car a few weeks ago. Since I got it, I have filled it up 3 times. The first time, it was fine. Since then, every time I filled it up, for 10 minutes afterwards it wouldn't start and the battery light would come on. When I turn the key, it sounds like the battery is dead, but it comes on after like 10 minutes.
Has anyone ever heard of this or know what it could be caused by? Also I noticed that the wheel locked up when it wasn't starting.
Thanks,
Brittany

Edit: I haven't tried just putting a little bit of gas in the car yet to see if that made a difference.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

I have read on here where a Bug won't start if the cap is not on. There is an indicator light to the right side of your cluster that indicates this. I have it on my '05 but have not tried it to see if it actually won't start (I typically don't turn onff the engine when I fuel and it doesn't stall). I can't imagine, however, if this is the case, I would guess the circuit being opened when the gas cap is removed, is causing some sort of malfunction or the sensor is malfunctioning or at least it is related to this.

As a short term fix try fueling with the engine running. No you won't blow up or catch fire! What about that car on the other side of the pump that's running while your fueling. It's kind of a thing like turning off cell phones on a plane, do you really think if there was ANY POSSIBLE danger, that phone would be allowed on the plane?

MORAV

[Smileybug]

My '99 started when I didn't have the cap on.

All I've heard is that if its not tightened all the way or on, you can get a CEL. I didn't get a CEL but I realized my cap wasn't on about 30 seconds later. But my car is also older.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

My '99 started when I didn't have the cap on.

All I've heard is that if its not tightened all the way or on, you can get a CEL. I didn't get a CEL but I realized my cap wasn't on about 30 seconds later. But my car is also older.

Mornin' Smileybug!

Maybe a CEL in your year, but I don't think the sensor was used until an icon was added in the instrument cluster. And I've only read on here that it will prevent starting; don't necessarily believe THAT, but if so, this could definately be related.

MORAV

[fohveh]

That does not sound like a fuel problem. This is a gas car right not a diesel? Your steering wheel locking up when you try to start sounds like something is wrong with the ignition switch area. When you have tried to start it again does the steering wheel unlock normally or does it continue to stay locked up? Unlocking the steering wheel is mechanical not electrical so it should not remain locked up when you turn the key. Try and start the car a few times and confirm that the steering wheel is still locked up or not, we can at least eliminate that possibility. Make sure when you try to turn the key you turn the steering wheel slightly left /right as you turn the key to dislodge the lock mechanism a bit. Sometimes it seems locked but it is just hung up a bit. Other than the ignition assembly your problem could be the fuel filter is clogged significantly, fuel pump has failed or the filter screen in the tank is clogged. To test the fuel pump just unlock and open the drivers door and listen for a humming sound that will last for about three seconds. The sound comes from under the rear seats, its the sound of the fuel pump pressuring the fuel line with fuel. If it hums it is likely not the fuel pump. Let us know what happens with these two tests I mentioned so we can diagnose it a bit better for you.

[jason m]

Originally Posted by BrittanyAndrea

I just got my car a few weeks ago. Since I got it, I have filled it up 3 times. The first time, it was fine. Since then, every time I filled it up, for 10 minutes afterwards it wouldn't start and the battery light would come on. When I turn the key, it sounds like the battery is dead, but it comes on after like 10 minutes.
Has anyone ever heard of this or know what it could be caused by? Also I noticed that the wheel locked up when it wasn't starting.
Thanks,
Brittany

Edit: I haven't tried just putting a little bit of gas in the car yet to see if that made a difference.

When you say the battery is dead for 10 minutes, do you mean it wil not turn over(starteer engage)? Are the lights coming on when this happens?

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by fohveh

That does not sound like a fuel problem. This is a gas car right not a diesel? Your steering wheel locking up when you try to start sounds like something is wrong with the ignition switch area. When you have tried to start it again does the steering wheel unlock normally or does it continue to stay locked up? Unlocking the steering wheel is mechanical not electrical so it should not remain locked up when you turn the key. Try and start the car a few times and confirm that the steering wheel is still locked up or not, we can at least eliminate that possibility. Make sure when you try to turn the key you turn the steering wheel slightly left /right as you turn the key to dislodge the lock mechanism a bit. Sometimes it seems locked but it is just hung up a bit. Other than the ignition assembly your problem could be the fuel filter is clogged significantly, fuel pump has failed or the filter screen in the tank is clogged. To test the fuel pump just unlock and open the drivers door and listen for a humming sound that will last for about three seconds. The sound comes from under the rear seats, its the sound of the fuel pump pressuring the fuel line with fuel. If it hums it is likely not the fuel pump. Let us know what happens with these two tests I mentioned so we can diagnose it a bit better for you.

Originally Posted by jason m

When you say the battery is dead for 10 minutes, do you mean it wil not turn over(starteer engage)? Are the lights coming on when this happens?

Wheel locking issue aside, the OP states the engine is NOT cranking, and only AFTER fueling. This IS electrical and not fuel related, filter, pump, or otherwise. I suspect simply removing the cap and replacing, and not taking on fuel, will yield the same result. Knowing that from the Oper will also help, immensly! Let's keep this moving in the right direction. The fact that it only occurs after fueling, when the fuel cap sensor circuit has been interupted leads one in the direction of the sensor, or a malfunction in what ever VW calls the BCM, and not the ignition switch. Can anyone please confirm or contradict what I have read on here that the ignition system will not operate when the cap is not properly seated, and the warning icon is illuminated? Knowing this is escentual in diagnosing the problem.

Much as many ppl think VW electronics are rocket science, they are not. Just seem to be poor quality components they have used behind great concepts.

MORAV

[Tico4Life]

Before saying anything else, I would like to know (like Jason) if the battery remains dead for 10 minutes, meaning do any of the lights or accessories can be turned on?
Does it only do it once right after fueling and then is fine until you refuel again?

What I was able to understand from the post, after fill up OP cranks and cranks the engine until battery seems dead.
Could it be that something is clogging the pump or filter?

[BrittanyAndrea]

First of all I want to thank you all for the responses! Second of all - I have to warn you, my knowledge of cars, is extremely limited, so I'm sorry if I sound like a moron.

After talking to my dad, I have realized that there is no way the battery was dead. I was frantic and didn't realize this, but apparently the first time it happened when he pulled up my headlights were on and that got me thinking that the only thing it wouldn't do was start. What made me think it was the battery though, was the battery light would either come on or flash(I'm not really sure which, I don't really remember) Yes I do realize that when you start the car all the lights come on, but the battery light was the only light on.

Next...I can say for sure that the cap was definitely on and on snug, that warning is on my car too, and it scared the living daylights out of me.

@fohveh You are correct in assuming that it is gas. I'm wondering if it has to deal with me not straightening out the wheel when I pull into the gas station? Completely random, I know, but my dad yells at me for not doing it when I pull into a parking spot all the time, and I am always able to unlock the wheel. Unless the humming nose isn't very obvious and is very easy to miss, I don't think its there. I didn't hear it.

[Tico4Life]

Originally Posted by BrittanyAndrea

Unless the humming nose isn't very obvious and is very easy to miss, I don't think its there. I didn't hear it.

It is pretty obvious, loud enough to hear every time. That is the gas pump pressurizing the fuel system so that you can have a smooth easy start. I could be wrong but I don't think the ignition switch failing to start the car would also interfere with the steering wheel not unlocking.

Jason M, this may sound stupid but, is there a purge solenoid or valve in our cars that might cause this problem when it fails? Could it be stuck open allowing fuel to seep in to the eng while fueling, flooding the eng on restarts?

OP, did you try to fully press the gas pedal while you crank the engine? Was there a strong raw gasoline smell coming from the engine compartment (I do realize you were at a gas station)

[BrittanyAndrea]

I didn't notice a smell at all

[BUGSTUFF]

I'll throw my .02 cents in here:

#1 - might I suggest that you take your car to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them hook up their code reader to see if there are any trouble codes. Just because the CEL is not on doesn't mean that there aren't any stored codes.

#2 - it might be your Evap Purge Valve (located behind the passenger side headlight). There have been others here that have had a similar non-start issue after refueling and it turned out to be the EPV.

#3 - if your car will not start, you really shouldn't crank it continuously for more than 15-20 seconds. You run the risk of burning out your starter and running down the battery.

#4 - if the steering wheel is locked, and the key will not turn, turn it a bit in the opposite direction that the wheels are turned until you can turn the key.

#5 - other posters have posted about the fuel filter and the fuel pump. If you bought your car used, and you don't know the maintenance history, and if it has more than say, 50,000 miles, I would change the fuel filter. Fuel pump could be a problem, but I'd investigate the other options first.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[jason m]

Originally Posted by BrittanyAndrea

First of all I want to thank you all for the responses! Second of all - I have to warn you, my knowledge of cars, is extremely limited, so I'm sorry if I sound like a moron.

After talking to my dad, I have realized that there is no way the battery was dead. I was frantic and didn't realize this, but apparently the first time it happened when he pulled up my headlights were on and that got me thinking that the only thing it wouldn't do was start. Again I ask did the starter click or not? If you have a manual transmission you have a clutch switch that will not allow the car to start unless the clutch is pushed in. Everything will work but he starter will not engage. What made me think it was the battery though, was the battery light would either come on or flash(I'm not really sure which, I don't really remember) Yes I do realize that when you start the car all the lights come on, but the battery light was the only light on.

Next...I can say for sure that the cap was definitely on and on snug, that warning is on my car too, and it scared the living daylights out of me.

@fohveh You are correct in assuming that it is gas. I'm wondering if it has to deal with me not straightening out the wheel when I pull into the gas station? Completely random, I know, but my dad yells at me for not doing it when I pull into a parking spot all the time, and I am always able to unlock the wheel. Unless the humming nose isn't very obvious and is very easy to miss, I don't think its there. I didn't hear it.

As far as the question about a valve allowiong fuel to seep into the engine, well not really. The car has individual fuel injectors that only fire when the ECM sees a signal from the crank sensor. The exception to this is what is called a cold start injector. I am not sure if this vehicle has a cold start injector, but if it does it will only fire when the engine is in cold, its purpose is obvious is injects fuel into the intake stream when cold to help start vehicle.

[BrittanyAndrea]

Originally Posted by jason m

As far as the question about a valve allowiong fuel to seep into the engine, well not really. The car has individual fuel injectors that only fire when the ECM sees a signal from the crank sensor. The exception to this is what is called a cold start injector. I am not sure if this vehicle has a cold start injector, but if it does it will only fire when the engine is in cold, its purpose is obvious is injects fuel into the intake stream when cold to help start vehicle.

My car is automatic...So I wouldn't have to worry about that. First I'm taking it to a friend of my dad's and he is taking a look at it for me tomorrow, and then I'm going to go to the dealership I bought it from with the results and make them fix it.

I figured it probably wasn't smart to keep trying to start it for a while, so I would do it for like 4 seconds at a time once every 2 minutes or so, I don't know if that was too cautious but I would rather that than ruin it.

Again, thank you all so much.

Edit: just realized I don't think it could be this because when I put gas in it, I've usually been driving for a while so the engine isn't cold yet.
Editting again, just realized I still didn't answer part of your question. It sounded like it was trying to start, I guess it was like a clicking noise.

[fohveh]

Sure sounds like the fuel pump or battery. Even if the fuel filter is clogged the pump will still prime and make th humming sound. Also thees cars require a certain amount of current to start and if they don't have it from the battery they simply do what your car is doing, everything on; lights, radio, interior lights, but when you turn the key the relay just clicks under the dash. Clickity click, clickity click, every time you turn the key to the start position. The battery light is always on when you turn the key to start or the engine stalls out so the symbol is pretty useless to diagnose anything. Try listening for the humming sound when you open the drivers door again if it is really absent something is up with the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is kaput then the engine receives no gas so no start. These cars are really simplistic. The car also does not store many codes like if your battery is low etc...Even the failure of the crank sensor throws no code. That would have been another one I would have suggested looking at BUT the symptoms of that failing are stalls just as the car comes to a stop at a stop sign or red light and erratic idling. Your problem is pretty straight forward though. Keep us posted hopefully with the aid of all these posts you and your dad and figure out whats going on. I would really suggest trying out a second battery these cars are power hungry.

[BrittanyAndrea]

Okay so sorry it took me so long to respond but, everything is all set now!
They replaced the battery in my car about a week ago, and I wanted to make sure it was okay before I posted.
Everything has been working great since the battery was replaced and I'm quite happy. Thank you all so much for your help.

[VDubYah]

Originally Posted by vicjerry007

sounds like you still have a big leak somewhere or possibly a bad MAF. after 10 years the vacuum lines get brittle and snap and you just have to replace them all. they are cheap though, you can get 20 feet of replacement line at any buy car parts store for like $5-10. you could also have another leak in an intake pipe, or your crankcase rebreather tube likes to break as well, its under the intake manifold. even a moderate leak wouldnt throw a code very often.

Reported

[BrittanyAndrea]

Just thought I'd give you guys an update...
The car dealer I bought my car from really screwed me over.
Turns out they didn't even replace the battery, they just told me they did. Every time my check engine light came on, I would take it in, they would blame it on something ridiculous like me letting my gas get to low and reset it. Fast forward 8 months, I give up on them and take it to someone else, I needed to replace 2 o2 sensors, a mass airflow sensor, and some evap thing(can't remember, it was a while ago)
The mechanic told me they had literally glued one of my o2 sensors and it stripped it. (I also may be explaining this wrong, but there was glue involved.)

Anyway, long story short, it was awful.

[Supercharged98]

My NB did the same thing. It wouldn't restart after fill up. It was the EVAP purge valve. Not to expensive part to replace. Try to use a Bosch part, not a china (CRAP) part. So, it's sounds like your mechanic is on the right track.

[Supercharged98]

My NB did the same thing. It wouldn't restart after fill up. It was the EVAP purge valve. Not to expensive part to replace. Try to use a Bosch part, not a china (CRAP) part. So, it's sounds like your mechanic is on the right track.