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Old 06-25-2011, 05:06 PM
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Default Drivers Window Won't Work

Here's the problem;
1. drivers window doesn't work either by using the individual switch on the drivers door or the master switch that's supposed to operate all windows simultaneously.
2. none of the other 3 windows work using their respective switch on the drivers door however the passenger window does work using the switch on the passenger door.
3. using the master switch all windows work except the drivers window.
4. the red led's on the drivers door are all out.
5. the switch to lock/unlock the doors on the drivers door does not work.

That's should cover it. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Trshman
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:12 PM
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Start with the basics; have you checked your fuses? Good? Seems like I would check for power going to the wiring in the drivers door (all power to the door, seems to be out) and the window motor using a circuit tester and go from there... window switches and controllers are common failures... what year and model is your beetle?

Last edited by billymade; 06-25-2011 at 05:18 PM..
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:47 PM
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It's an '04 1.8 Turbo conv.
I haven't checked anything yet. It happened on my trip to Miami and I'm still here. My manual and meter are home so I can't really check until I get back but that's where I'll start.
You mention a controller; is that located in the door as well?

I bought the car used and since I got it the driver's window has never worked properly regarding lowering and raising when you open the door. Perhaps that was the beginning of the problem. Also you're right, the drivers side mirrow is out too. Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:55 PM
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I would start with the fuses (pop out the fuses and visually inspect them; you can get fuses at any auto parts store); all the electrics in the door don't seem to work from what you are saying.... so a fuse would make sense and then checking for current in the wiring loom would be next. If your door windows regulator is messed up; that maybe covered on under a recall... call dealer with your VIN# and see if it is... sometimes was a "silent recall" of sorts. Good luck!
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:05 AM
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You can check the fuses, do you know where to find the respective fuses? If it is a fuse there is a reason it's blown, seldom do fuses blow without a short or an overload. Sounds more like broken wire(s), loose plug, bad switch, bad micro switch(es) or a combination there of. You might be able to live with all the other problems for a while, but your top will very quickly become frayed if that feature (slight drop on opening the door) isn't corrected. Lot of electronics going on in the door, and your going to have to open it up. Best to wait until you get home and have access to tools and a meter. We (the Org collectively) can walk you through the procedures for diagnosing and repairing.

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Old 06-26-2011, 02:32 AM
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Guess what ! Everything is working !
About an hour ago I left the motel to pick up some food and discovered everything is now working. All the led's are on; the side mirror and of course the window.

I'm afraid to lower it for fear it will stop working again but it lowers and raises as I open and close the door. Obviously it's not a fuse.
Never having the door panel off I'm guessing a bad or shorted connection. My meter and manual are back home so this will have to wait before I can get into it. Meanwhile I think I'll leave the window up until I get back
Thanks for the help, Trshman
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Old 06-26-2011, 05:10 AM
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:17 PM
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Well I'm home and ready to trace down this problem. My Haynes manual says to remove the negative battery cable but that it might cause problems with other things in the car. Is it really necessary to remove power or can I work on the drivers door electrics without causing any other problems?
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:51 PM
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Never had a problem undoing the battery on my car. Its safer that way if you are going to be working on electric components.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:04 PM
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Smileybug, I agree it's probably safer but without power I'm wondering if I'll be able to trace the wiring to find the problem.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:44 PM
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If your looking for power with a circuit tester; the battery is definitely going to have to be connected! Now if you are removing electrical components; that classic thing is to "disconnect the battery" to eliminate possible damage but if you are tracing wiring, checking for voltage etc, leave it connected. I typically disconnect the battery if I am working on or removing major components like starter alternator etc.
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Old 07-02-2011, 03:15 PM
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Well, I've gone beyond worrying about the battery.
I removed the drivers door panel completely then removed the power window module and the module that controls the trunk and gas cap.
Then, being a clean freak, I sprayed both modules with an electric parts cleaner thinking the contacts might need it. To my great surprise the plastic control switches disintegrated, I mean they just fell apart.
I now need all the power window switches and the switch for the trunk/gas lid. BTW, any idea on how I can open that cap lid without the switch ?
Also any suggestions for where I can get these items other than VW?
I'm going to check my list of "Murphy's Laws" to see if I can find one that applies to this. (It's a good thing I've got 2 other cars
You all have a great weekend. Trshman
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:17 PM
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I've had to replace most if not all of my window switches; so, don't feel bad you are not alone! VW interior switches are not the most durable ones out there... bleah! I tried to find the switches other places for a better deal (ebay. 3rd party vendors etc.) and just ended up getting mine through my dealer with our shop discount; www.1stvwparts.com seemed to have good prices (shipping seems to always kill the better prices on things I always seem to find online); I was worried used or others from unknown sources would just fail early and I would be back to ground zero... again! Good luck!
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:36 PM
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Thanks billymade. I agree, a cheap price isn't the main consideration. I'll just have to wait until Tuesday when my dealer is open again. I re-read the label and discovered what I used was an eletrical parts "degreaser" in a spray can. I thought it was an eletronic parts cleaner. It looks like it reacted with a gray, plastic looking liner inside the buttons. The buttons just broke into pieces when I pressed them. Oh well ! ! Hopefully this will be my biggest foul up this year (probably not). Thanks again, you and yours have a nice 4th of July.
Trshman
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:39 PM
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billymade,

I was wondering if you happen to know which color coded molex type connector goes to which power windwow switch.

I have a black; a red and a yellow molex type connector coming from the wiring harness. I have a power window switch for the front windows; the rear windows and a master switch for all of them but I don't know which color connector goes to which switch.
The VW parts department doesn't know, I'm hoping you might know.
Thanks, trshman.
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:52 PM
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Well I figured out the color coding problem. It seems that VW also made very subtle differences in each connector so that they will only fit into the switch they were meant to work with.

Now that they're installed it seems I still have the same problem; the master control works all windows except the drivers; none of the individual power window switches work; the drivers side mirror doesn't work and the drivers door lock doesn't work.
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:08 PM
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Default Microswitches in Door Latch

I am experiencing the same issue with my wife's 2004 2.0L New Beetle Convertible with some minor additions.
  • When the headlights are turned on I get a continuous warning beep.
  • The interior lights remain always on in the 'open door' mode.
  • The power windows control does not currently function
  • The convertible top mechanism is not currently working. The top is up and I can not bring it down
  • While I can't verify this it seems as though the A/C only vents in outside air or heated air. This is fun in the AZ Monsoon.

After reading several other threads I am guessing that at least some of these stem from the same issue. The door latch microswitches. I believe that my car believes that the passenger side door is permanently open.

VWVortex.com - MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!!
Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!! - TDIClub Forums

You may want to look into it as a potential solution. Let me know what you think.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trshman View Post
Well I figured out the color coding problem. It seems that VW also made very subtle differences in each connector so that they will only fit into the switch they were meant to work with.

Now that they're installed it seems I still have the same problem; the master control works all windows except the drivers; none of the individual power window switches work; the drivers side mirror doesn't work and the drivers door lock doesn't work.
Hi, i am having the same problems here in a 2004 convertible.
Did you ever find what the problem was?

Thnx
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:17 AM
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To those who are still having this issue, I believe the problem is with the door control module that is piggybacked on the window regulator on the driver's side door. My nbc had the same exact problems and a burning smell lead me to this component. Unfortunately the only way I know of to get this module is with a new lift motor, which runs $120 retail where I am.
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