Fuse Panel box ( on top of battery )

[Swtpepper2]

I have a 2000 beetle and it will not start. It will turn over but that's it. The only lights on are the check engine light and the EPC light.It's not the timing, which we initially thought. But we found that inside the fuse panel box on top of the battery, the first fuse on the left hand side is burnt and melted. Could this be the issue? Ive read several places that the fan will cause this to happen and this is possible because leading up to this happening, the fan was very loud, then the air conditioner started blowing warm air instead of cold, then the very next week it just started jumping like it had bad gas, when we pulled over, it went dead and has not crank since. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this ? How to fix it? I am a single mother, I can not afford to take it to the dealership.

[pencilneck]

The first fuse, usually a 150A fuse is from the alternator and is for charging the battery, so would not have to do with a no start issue. You will need to replace the alternator cable and fuse block all the same. This is a fairly common issue.

A car that cranks but no start can be several different things. I would suggest you scan the car with a dealer level scan tool (like VCDS). You may find some one in your area with this who can do a beer-for-scan exchange:

VWVortex.com - Vag-Com Locator searchable map style! Owners pm me your info requested in the thread

Without more information directly from the car, anything anyone tells you is a complete guess. For example, the following could be the source:

Failed fuel pump.
Some fuse blown.
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) failed.
Failed Fuel Pump Relay.
Failed ECM.
Rodent damage to wiring harness.


I could come up with a few more things if I spent more than 20 seconds on this.... but each of those items COULD be the problem or just plain wrong. Repair with logic, not with wild guesses that people post up.

Start with the basics.... fuses, have you checked all of them? For example, for S232 (fuse #32, 10A on the left side of the dash) is for the fuel injectors.

[Stlbug]

You say that it is the first fuse on the left side, if it is the one with the large black cable, that is the link fuse that runs frome the power output of the altinator. IF that one is melted the car will not crank. There is a possibility that the altinator wiring harness is failing. If the fuse block has not melted too badly, you can try to replace the fuse and see what happens. You will have to get the fuse from the dealer. There are 3 fuses that can go in that place most of the are 150 amp.If it melts again with in a short time you will have to make a new cable to run from the altinator to the fuse block. Generaly that is the wire that is bad and the whole harness need not be replaced.Y ou can get all the parts form a automotive store and the cost is about 20 bucks. There are 2 differnt size ends to the cable . So you will need a 4 gauge cable 49 incnes will be enough and the proper size ends to crimp on. Disconnct the battery , dissconect the two ends of the cable and tape the ends with some good electrical tape. Connect the new cable to the altinator and route the cable to the fuse block, purdy much following the old one, keeping the cable away frome the realy hot parts of the engine.connect the new cable end to the fuse block with the new link fuse, reconnect the battery and your ready to go. Or you can have you favorite mechcanic make and install you one for about 100 bucks. If you need a new fuseblock thats about 180 dollars. If the fuse block is melted where the three green blade fuses are, you will probably have to buy a new fuse block. Those fuses are for the cooling fans.

[Stlbug]

I forgot to mention that I had the same thing happen to me and this was my solution.

[Swtpepper2]

Originally Posted by Swtpepper2

I have a 2000 beetle and it will not start. It will turn over but that's it. The only lights on are the check engine light and the EPC light.It's not the timing, which we initially thought. But we found that inside the fuse panel box on top of the battery, the first fuse on the left hand side is burnt and melted. Could this be the issue? Ive read several places that the fan will cause this to happen and this is possible because leading up to this happening, the fan was very loud, then the air conditioner started blowing warm air instead of cold, then the very next week it just started jumping like it had bad gas, when we pulled over, it went dead and has not crank since. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this ? How to fix it? I am a single mother, I can not afford to take it to the dealership.

Also, the fuel pump isn't working but the guy said some smaller things weren't working either, which is why he thinks it could be the computer.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Excellent advice above. The simple failure of a 150 amp, steel, fusible link is indication of a significant electrical malfunction in that circuit. Fusible links are much more durable than fuses and not as subject to short spikes in current or accidental shorts. Don't expect anything to work properly until that issue is diagnosed and corrected. Correction of this problem may very well clear up all other problems.

Electrical issues are not simple for the DIYer withour the proper diagnostic equipment and the knowledge of how to use them. Trial and error can be a bad (and expensive) way to diagnose electrical problems as typically any electrical part is non-returnable. You will do best to try and find either another "Bugger" in your area who will take you under their wing and give the necessary help or a VW specialty shop that will provide you services equal to those of a Dealer but at a reduced cost.

MORAV

[pencilneck]

Originally Posted by Swtpepper2

Also, the fuel pump isn't working but the guy said some smaller things weren't working either, which is why he thinks it could be the computer.

OK, this might be a good clue...

Gasser engines have what is called a "fuel pump relay". If this relay fails, then as you might guess, the fuel pump doesn't work. But it also allows other items to power up. Now when these fuel pump relays go bad, the ECM can get a bunch of "short to ground" type fault codes in it.

Ross-Tech: VCDS: DTC Comparison

So you might have a bad fuel pump relay, which if that is the case, is good because they are like my sister... cheap and easy. *zing* Thank you thank you... don't forget to tip the bartender folks... I'll be performing here all week!

What of your fuses? Did you check them? Can you get the Engine Control Module scanned for fault codes?

[Stlbug]

After reading the post again she says that the car does turn over but doesnt start,so I don"t think it is the the 150 amp fuse that is in question ,but one of the blade fuses. missed that, I am such an idiot.

[Swtpepper2]

Thank You!!

[Swtpepper2]

Yes, the fuse that is melted goes to the Alt. linkage or whatever it's called.. That's what I was told on the phone. I just ordered the new fuse holder with fuses on ebay from a parts dealer for 38.00, the dealership wanted 148.00. I really hope this fixes the issue. I know there is probably going to be a problem with the cooling fan because it was making such a loud noise, but I think I'm safe to replace this first, then go from there as y'all suggested. The fuse holder that I ordered comes with 3 green fuses, and a new red cable that comes out from the side, and of course all the bolts and everything...would I still need to replace any wires other than the one that's included? Thanks so much for all your replies....you don't know how much I appreciate this.

[Stlbug]

Yes you will have to run a new cable from the altinator to the new fuse block as I descibed before, the red cable goes to the battery. You willhave to get a 150 amp fuse( from the dealership) they are cheap, and change out the other fuses from the damaged fuse block in the same order. the other wires are keyed to the fuse block and can hook up only one way, but I put a piece of tape on each one and numbered them anyway. If you dont run a new cable, you may run the risk of melting the new block and fuse again. Good Luck!

[Swtpepper2]

Update: I ordered the part I needed, ( fuse box) The dealer wanted 148.00 for just the box. I purchased it on ebay from an ebay store, received the box, the fuses, and the wires for 36.00. I really hope this fixes the problem! Will post updates as soon as I get it changed out. Thanks for all the help guys!

[Swtpepper2]

Originally Posted by Swtpepper2

I have a 2000 beetle and it will not start. It will turn over but that's it. The only lights on are the check engine light and the EPC light.It's not the timing, which we initially thought. But we found that inside the fuse panel box on top of the battery, the first fuse on the left hand side is burnt and melted. Could this be the issue? Ive read several places that the fan will cause this to happen and this is possible because leading up to this happening, the fan was very loud, then the air conditioner started blowing warm air instead of cold, then the very next week it just started jumping like it had bad gas, when we pulled over, it went dead and has not crank since. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this ? How to fix it? I am a single mother, I can not afford to take it to the dealership.

UPDATE: the fuse box fixed the voltage problems, however, the car is still not starting, it turns over, but had a guy look at it today... He says it's not firing! What can cause this???

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Bad coil, but you needed to replace the fuse block and fusible link anyway, so that wasn't in vain!

[Swtpepper2]

Originally Posted by Swtpepper2

Update: I ordered the part I needed, ( fuse box) The dealer wanted 148.00 for just the box. I purchased it on ebay from an ebay store, received the box, the fuses, and the wires for 36.00. I really hope this fixes the problem! Will post updates as soon as I get it changed out. Thanks for all the help guys!

Ok... Question! Have a mechanic helping me now, but he hasn't worked on beetles very much. He said he's checked the crank sensor and hd thinks it's sending power to the fuel pump cause it's spinning and he can feel the fuel pump kicking in... But car still isn't starting! As far as the coil....... He said it has 4 of them, if one goes bad... Will it prevent it from cranking or just make it miss?? He's scared to fool with a lot because he doesn't want me buying stuff I dont need and it still not fix it!
Any more suggestions? I'm had to replace the fuse box anyway... So your right, that was money well spent! Y'all don't know how much I appreciate all this help!!

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

If you have coils on each plug, as your mechanic has informed you/us, you have a 1.8L Turbo. Hadn't picked up on that until now. Going to have a look at the Bentley and see what it has for diagnostics for no spark.

Don't remember if this was asked, or if you had commented, has anyone attempted to retrieve any stored codes with a Vag-Com type reader. An SAE code reader will not pull all codes, but even those might help.

Edit: pdf now attached. You might want to also check the Camshaft Position Sensor, .pdf also attached


I believe I read where there is a recall on these and replaced free of charge, don't remember the years involved or which 1.8T engine series.


M.

[Swtpepper2]

Ok...Taking them to him now...THANK YOU!

Wish me luck guys!!