Changing the Battery. Gimme your thoughts!

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

I have to change the battery in my '05 tomorrow. Debating whether to wire a temmporary backup battery into the system, plug in a solar charger, or hook up my trickle charger to maintain all memories while I swap the batteries. I don't have the radio code, number one, and I don't want to have to deal with any other potential resets. I'm a little concerned with voltage spikes hitting the electronics without the battery to buffer if I use either of the last two options. Really think the best bet is to wire in the back-up battery. Thoughts? Whose done what?

Btw, I couldn't find a Die-Hard or Optima made for the NB. Those are Group 35's. The POS, 520 CCA, Advanced Auto store brand is a Group 47xx. What are peoples' experiences with this. I would sure have rather had the D-H with 740 CCA and 48/96 warranty.

M

[CoriBug]

My battery has been unplugged multiple times and replaced once. I've never had to reset anything except my radio stations and the computer reset the trip odometeter at 0. There is something you can get on ebay that saves your radio code.

[Stlbug]

Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette

I have to change the battery in my '05 tomorrow. Debating whether to wire a temmporary backup battery into the system, plug in a solar charger, or hook up my trickle charger to maintain all memories while I swap the batteries. I don't have the radio code, number one, and I don't want to have to deal with any other potential resets. I'm a little concerned with voltage spikes hitting the electronics without the battery to buffer if I use either of the last two options. Really think the best bet is to wire in the back-up battery. Thoughts? Whose done what?

Btw, I couldn't find a Die-Hard or Optima made for the NB. Those are Group 35's. The POS, 520 CCA, Advanced Auto store brand is a Group 47xx. What are peoples' experiences with this. I would sure have rather had the D-H with 740 CCA and 48/96 warranty.

M

I had VW replace my battery in my 05 in case they needed to reset anything. There was no resets. They also told me that the car would rest itself after driving it a week or so if any idiot lights came on. It must be the number of starting cycles that resets it.I didn't persue it any further. I have also disconected the battery many times up to an hour with no problems.

[Blugg]

I used to reset my codes by taking the battery cables off. You need to take them off for 30mins+ to reset the codes fully.
Never, did my radio reset

Now i have VagCom i don't need to use the battery method

[Smileybug]

When I replaced my battery, I went with a Duralast. One was in the car when I got it and it lasted 5 years for me...no clue when it was actually replaced. Convincing enough for me so another one went in!

[IndyTom]

You can probably get the Radio Code from VW or the dealer but I am sure they will charge you for it. I know my 2001 Audi always reset and asked for codes when I disconnected the battery for any sort of work but my 2004 didn't. So I am not sure if the newer model Beetles are the same way and store the radio codes for a little while.

As far as batteries go I believe the Duralast Gold from Autozone has 750 Cranking Amps and 650 Cold Cranking Amps with an 8 year warranty/ 3 year replacement warranty. Which isn't too bad.

Battery | AutoZone.com

Pep Boys actually had a BOSCH Battery with 750/600cca for 107.99 which was the least expensive battery of anyone I could find with a 96 month warranty and 36 month replacement.

Replacement Auto Parts, Replacement Car Parts | Pep Boys

Activant Cover-to-Cover

If I need a replacement for my almost 4 year old battery I will most likely go with that one.

[janitz]

This must be something only in the 98, but the code for the factory radio in my bug can be found on a label in the spare tire well. Not the sticker showing the engine code, within the well with the tire.

Here's a pic, I'm not sure what the top string refers to, the bottom four digits are the code.

I'm also lucky that the 98 is very simple, very few electronics within it. After disconnecting the battery the only thing I need to do is enter the code, set my time, and then roll down fully and up fully the windows to set the distance for the auto up/down.

[Opelmania]

I had an Interstate battery in mine when I got it. Battery was no good and got it warrantied after 2 years. Ended up paying about $60 for a $120 battery. I've had the new one in for almost 2 years now and even with me draining it with my stereo a couple of times, it has never let me down. I also keep a portable jumper in my car. Here is a link for the Interstate batteries for your car M. Interstate Batteries Results Page - Automotive / Truck 2005 Volkswagen Beetle L4/2.0L

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by janitz

This must be something only in the 98, but the code for the factory radio in my bug can be found on a label in the spare tire well.

Here's a pic, I'm not sure what the top string refers to, the bottom four digits are the code.

I'm also lucky that the 98 is very simple, very few electronics within it. After disconnecting the battery the only thing I need to do is enter the code, set my time, and then roll down fully and up fully the windows to set the distance for the auto up/down.

I'm going to bet the top string is the Serial number.

I know that by '05 when the radio is disconnected and reinstalled, the computer scans and matches the radio without any code entry required.

I want to believe that by '05 electronics are sophisticated enough to store everything required whether the computer is powered down or not, but concerned about different resets I have read, including throttle body reset, auto tranny reset, immo issues etc. I'm just going to wire a temporary back-up bat to the system as I'm concerned about voltage spikes from using anything else. Two 12ga leads from 2nd bat to bat terminals.

That said, thank you everyone for your input to date.

I have read through the Bat DIY
Battery Replacement - How-To
and the discussion thread
Battery Replacement - (How-To) Discussion Thread

Lot of information and a lot of contradictory information regarding Group size fitment. And almost all totally useless in doing the replacement of mine. My plastic battery box is totally different. No velcro (what a stupid concept, ). And because of being different, no help as regards Group size either. I have the ability to work through the R&R without a DIY but was hoping for any "tricks" any one had to offer, but as mine is totally different...

Regarding Group size, I didn't take my battery out and take it for comparison, but I did look at it prior to going to pick-up the AutoCraft Gold, Group 45H5, which appears to be the correct size and design. Optima site says Group 35, but Advaned AP fitment info says NO. Die-Hard has Group 35, but for fitment to the '05 also says NO go. When I picked up the 45H5 I physically compared it to the Optima Group 35, and I can see why the Group 35 won't work. As I work through this whole issue, I'm going to do a DIY for my battery box and address the why or why not of the Series 47N5 v. Series 35, and then also have a look at Series 34 as someone suggested in the DIY and discussion threads.

I have already purchased the Advanced AutoCraftGold POS 520CCA battery, and I'm going to install it. Once done I will know exactly what Die-Hard or other manufacturer's batteries will or won't directly interchange, without problems.

I'm seeing this as about a one-hour project without doing DIY pics etc, but am going to take what ever time is required to gain the info required to help others.
Someone is going to have to help me with notating, e.g. circles, arrows, comments, directly onto photographs, i.e. software needed etc. At one point in time, on some computer I had, with some software program, I could do this, I can't seem to find a way to do it on the one I'm now using. I'll put up a request thread when I reach that point. I know there are some computer geeks or techies on here who can help.

M.

[janitz]

The velcro is a battery blanket. I'm guessing that the dealership down in Texas doesn't install this, which is why you don't have that step. My battery blanket goes a step further and is an electric blanket tied in with the block heater to keep the battery as well as the engine core warm. The part where he shows the battery out with the blanket attached still, doesn't happen in my car.

Otherwise that seems to be pretty correct from the DIY. The battery is a PITA to get out, but having done it myself in -30 weather in 15 minutes, I'm pretty sure anyone can do it on a nice sunny day.


I think you should see your process something like this:

1. Connect your little battery to the 12v plug in the car to keep the computer with some power.
2. Disconnect the car's battery.
3. Remove the bolt holding the power steering fluid container.
4. Pull the power steering fluid container towards the engine.
5. Pop the lid up off the plastic shroud around the battery. Doesn't need to be unbolted or removed. Just up and out of the way.
6. Release the bolts holding the plastic shroud in place.
7. Pull the plastic shroud towards the engine, could even go so far as pull it entirely out right now.
8. Unbolt the retaining clip for the battery.
9. Pull the battery in towards the engine and then up and out of the car. You'll likely end up having to rotate upwards and out as I don't think even with the power steering container pulled out of the way there is enough room for the battery to drop straight in or come straight up and out.

The worst part in this is going to be keeping those bolts from falling down. I picked up a telescoping magnet for this part of the job, which I hold against the bolt as I'm loosening it.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Looking closer at the photo's I can see that in the first (from the OPer) this is a thermal blanket, the battery, too, appears to be smaller (probably the reason for the Group 34). There would be no room in my box, for what is more than likely a northern North America or Canadian std equipment or option or a Dealer installed option. Many manufacturers offer the block heater etc as an option, it would never be standard fare for a base model that was built for the entire N Am market. If yours came from the factory with it, I would think the option code would appear on your build sheet and window sticker.

Original post pic showing insulated thermal blanket (the original post is not available to know where this vehicle was located) -


marvins_dad's pics (below) show a completely different type of what he refers to as a "protective sleeve", not insulated, not heated (and his is a TDI), but then he is in Texas also. Mine does not have this sleeve, however much else could well be like mine, although from what I can discern from his first pic, his battery plastic case is designed nothing like mine.




His is a high CCA Die-Hard, and now that I have a p/n I am going to investigate that further for fitment to my '05, even though Die-Hard shows no battery available for the '05.

I failed to bring my metric wrench sets home from the shop, but may have enough misc ones in my box to do this, otherwise it's going to have to wait until tomorrow. 35 mile trip into and across Houston on a Friday afternoon... Not happening!

Btw, no power outlet plug set up for my temp battery rigging, just simply wire sa couple 12 ga leads from battery posts to battery teminal connectors, no biggie! Also need to bring a roll of wire from the shop, that I went off without, yesterday.

M.

[VDubYah]

Morav
An hour is about right when taking your time. I found the biggest PIA was the captured nut on the power steering resevoir.Could not get the bolt to catch,finaly looked and used an awl to put the nut at the hole and the bolt went right in.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by VDubYah

Morav
An hour is about right when taking your time. I found the biggest PIA was the captured nut on the power steering resevoir.Could not get the bolt to catch,finaly looked and used an awl to put the nut at the hole and the bolt went right in.

Hey, thank you, I appreciate the heads up on the bolt. Going to grab a magnet to add into the tool mix also, before starting. Not a total novice here, worked as a paid mechanic during my teen years. Probably take me longer than that hour, as even though all connections in the fuse box etc, all are tight and look clean, I'm going to open, clean and di-electric grease ALL connections with the hope of avoiding the potential dreaded battery fuse box meltdown. Add in pics for a possible DIY or DIY update, I figure a couple, three hours. Maybe do some general cleaning of the area around the Bat while it's out also.

[VDubYah]

Good idea on the general cleaning i could not believe all the dirt under the battery when I took it out.

[janitz]

The battery in my bug is a Group 48 with 690 CCA, from Canadian Tire here. They show me a Group 47 for a 2005 model.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by janitz

The battery in my bug is a Group 48 with 690 CCA, from Canadian Tire here. They show me a Group 47 for a 2005 model.

Yep, that's what the Advanced book shows and what I bought, just couldn't come up with a group 47 from Die-Hard. Gotta check into the Die-Hard "International" (import) one marvins_dad came up with, but not till I have the physical existing bat in hand, and some maximum dimensions inside the box to work with. Not really sure the CCA are all that much of any issue, just used to dealing with big block V8s, and the Advanced bat has a 36/84 warranty. And actually there could be a alternator issue with charging such high CCA batteries.

[janitz]

Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette

Yep, that's what the Advanced book shows and what I bought, just couldn't come up with a group 47 from Die-Hard. Gotta check into the Die-Hard "International" (import) one marvins_dad came up with, but not till I have the physical existing bat in hand, and some maximum dimensions inside the box to work with. Not really sure the CCA are all that much of any issue, just used to dealing with big block V8s, and the Advanced bat has a 36/84 warranty. And actually there could be a alternator issue with charging such high CCA batteries.

Well, the alternator isn't really meant to charge the battery, only maintain the existing charge and supply the vehicle's electric components. Here if the battery gets drained, the alternator is not going to charge it enough to get you started next time after you get a boost from someone. Have to pull the battery and put it on a charger for 8 hours.

We need large CCA values here because the higher the value the more energy in the battery and as such the lower the temperature can drop before the battery cannot crank the starter. So there are batteries at Canadian Tire that have 900 CCA.

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by janitz

Well, the alternator isn't really meant to charge the battery, only maintain the existing charge and supply the vehicle's electric components.

Me thinks you might have that somewhat confused! Trust me, any time an engine is started or components are run without being powered by the aid of the alternator, the battery is drained, and one of the two purposes of the alternator is to charge it back to it's capacity.

[Stlbug]

In hot climates doubling or tripling your CCA is a waste of money,because the extra amps will never be used. A starter will only demand what it needs. In Texas I would think that you would want a battery with High Reserve Capacity or AMP Hours. Heat kills a battery. Up in Canada a good battery will lose 30% of its cranking power right off the bat in really cold conditions. So they need the high CCA. Also a battery should discharge at least 10% when starting anything less and you will eventualy kill the battery. Anything over 80% discharge and you will greatly diminish battery life.

[janitz]

Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette

Me thinks you might have that somewhat confused! Trust me, any time an engine is started or components are run without being powered by the aid of the alternator, the battery is drained, and one of the two purposes of the alternator is to charge it back to it's capacity.

I was told that if the battery dies (insufficient power to start the engine) in winter that after getting a boost don't try to let the alternator charge the battery. So when this has happened to me, I've taken the battery out of the car and brought it inside to warm up and then charge.

I wonder if that's just something to do with charging a cold battery. I would expect the alternator would need to be worked pretty hard to charge the battery siting in the car at -40.