Ready to give up

[jenny57446]

Hi All!

I have been a member for a little while. I mostly lurk or research old threads when I am looking for an answer. But this time, I am at my whit's end and ready to give up and sell my bug.

I have a '99 New Beetle, 2.0. I bought her in 2009 with 73K miles on it and it was running well and in great shape. I would say about a year into my ownership, everything just started going wrong with the car. Everything from new belts, new brakes, two new MAF sensors, holes in the intake valves, to replacing the water pump and struts. Two years later and $10,000 later, I am flat broke with a broken down Bug and I can't take it anymore. Every time I took her to the dealer they had another reason for the problems. So would believe them, spend more money that I couldn't afford, and it still wasn't fixed.

After the last not-so-fixed visit, I swore to myself that I wasn't going back. I would just sell it. But I just can't. I LOVE LOVE LOVE my Bug and I really don't want to get rid of it if I can fix it. She is a part of me and I am irrevocably attached.

So here is my dilemma. I am a girl, I don't know how to work on the car nor do I know anyone who can. I am handy when I need to change an air filter or a flat, but that is the extent of my skills. I am inquiring here today to see if anyone knows of any VW Magicians in the Northern VA, Southern MD, DC area. I just want an honest opinion on how bad it is rather than the slack-jawed, nose picking, good for nothing mechanics (loosely given term) at the dealer who can only fix a something when the computers tell them whats wrong. (sorry, didn't meant offend anyone... that was directed specifically to the dealer I have been going to)

Thanks for reading and I look forward to any and all input!

[Smileybug]

What is going on with your car? We can probably help point you in the right direction of things to check.

Here is a list of trusted VW mechanics: https://docs.google.com/a/ncsu.edu/d.../edit?hl=en_US

Looks like there is one in Silver Spring. The list is from TDI Club so these mechanics are trusted to work on the TDIs and usually do work on gassers as well. You can also ask on VWVortex.com in their regional section about mechanics in the area. I grew up in AA County, but I came south for college so I only went to the dealer up there before finding my mechanic here so I don't know of any up there. But I'm sure there are good places there.

But we can also lend a hand here

[IndyTom]

Hi Jenny,

Sorry you are having so much trouble with your Beetle. The dealer is not the best place to take it to since they will take you for everything you have or don't have. They are good with finding new things wrong with your bug and have you pay out of your nose for it.

That said, what is the actual problem or problems with your Beetle? It looks like you already have had them change the timing belt and water pump (which is all one service along with the accessory belt and tensioners and pulleys).
For a 2.0 that service should have been no more than $450 to maybe MAX $750 which is usually only charged for the 1.8 Turbo engine.

Let us know what the actual issues are you are having and we will try and help. It could be something fairly easy that you might be able to do yourself. You just never know.

Also let us know where exactly you are located so we can make some recommendations to a reputable VW Service shops. There are some good ones out there but others are not much better than the dealer. So you have to be careful where you go.

Here is a link where you can search by you Location.

Volkswagen Repair Shops & Mechanics in Maryland | VCarShops.com

VW Repair Shops


Have a great day and I hope you get your issues resolved soon.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

What is going on with your car? We can probably help point you in the right direction of things to check.

Here is a list of trusted VW mechanics: https://docs.google.com/a/ncsu.edu/d.../edit?hl=en_US

Looks like there is one in Silver Spring. The list is from TDI Club so these mechanics are trusted to work on the TDIs and usually do work on gassers as well. You can also ask on VWVortex.com in their regional section about mechanics in the area. I grew up in AA County, but I came south for college so I only went to the dealer up there before finding my mechanic here so I don't know of any up there. But I'm sure there are good places there.

But we can also lend a hand here

Hey Smileybug,

That link doesn't seem to work.

Never mind... I wasn't signed into Google. Once I signed in the link worked just fine.

[Opelmania]

Sorry to hear of your problems with your nB. It sounds like you can probably do more to fix your car than you think. If you can change the air filter and a flat, you are pretty handy. Between asking questions on here about your problem, and one of us helping you through it, we'll get you up and running in no time.

What currently is your problem? Does it start? Does it run like crap after it starts?

I am not from that area, but post on here and there are plenty of knowledgeable people on here that will help you out as much as we can.

[jenny57446]

Thanks everyone!

When I first moved here and was trying to find a mechanic, the non-dealer associated mechanics were more expensive than the dealer. I couldn't find any specialists nearby, so I ended up going to the dealer anyway. And the one thing to point out is that around the DC area, even if it looks like only 10 miles away as the crow flies, it still takes you an hour to get anywhere because of all of the traffic and highways.

Short of going home to pull up the records, I can't name exactly what the latest codes are and what all they replaced. Give me a day or two and I can post those later.

But, it starts. It actually seems to run decently for short distances (decent is also a loose term - its relative to not running at all which is what was happening before my last dealer visit). It sounds like its missing on every cylinder: Shaky and feels like it will stall, but it never does. If the RPM's are up, like while I am accelerating or in neutral and giving it gas, the stalling feeling goes away a bit. But once its been running for a little while (15 minutes), smoke and massive fumes start pouring out of the tail pipe. Also, it consumes gas and oil like its leaking (but its not). I think the last fill up I only got 120 miles out of the full tank.

The last problem and most expensive to date, was a leak in the intake valve. No one could figure it out. The codes kept telling them something else. But finally someone suggested testing for it and voila! But, I have to point out that I think a lot of damage was done in the months of running it that way. Whenever it would rain , I couldn't get it started at all. There were a few occasions when I would get it running, it would start to stutter, vibrate uncontrollably and then the most horrific sound would come from the engine. The only thing I can compare it with is as if someone took two cast iron pans and banged them together over and over again.

That was the last (latest - hopefully) problem. I could go one with more, but I think it was the most significant. Once I get home, I will pull up all of the records and come back with more detail.

I am currently in Alexandria, VA just south of DC. I think trying to get to Silver Spring may pose to be a problem. I don't think the poor girl will make it there and I really don't want to tow it if I can't be certain I wont have to shell out another $1000 of money I really do not have.

Thanks for all of your concern. I would love to get a few more years out of the old gal if I could.

[Smileybug]

Definitely post up the codes. Although driving it around with those kinds of problems can lead to more things going wrong, depending on what it is.

You have us now. Don't let being a female get in the way of getting good service in your car. If you go in there not knowing whats up, you will be taken advantage of. Get us info and we can help figure out things for you to specifically get checked out. Being armed with knowledge is key to getting good service a lot of the time.

Since you say that it gets worse when it rains, my first thought goes to a bad ignition coil. Have you replaced your spark plugs and wires?

A lot of the work that has already been done sounds more like routine maintenance (timing belt/water pump, brakes, suspension bits) which comes with getting a car with 73k on it and 10 years old.

You really do need to get the car looked at and probably should limit your driving if its smoking and running that poorly. You really should check out the regionals on VWVortex. They can help point you in the direction of a trusted shop.

Edit: Here is a list to check out for the Capital Area from the regional section on VW Vortex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...6#post34600417

[jenny57446]

Thanks Smileybug. I have chosen not to drive it. So my poor Yellow Bug sits on my street looking forlorn.

The ignition coil was replaced prior to the intake valve. The rain issue was cleared up. Now its just the inability to run for longer than 20 minutes and the epic smoke pouring out of the tailpipe.

Stay tuned for codes and history.

[nitroman]

Could a bad O2 sensor cause the smoke? I have a 99 Beetle and both mine failed at around the 100000 km mark.

To be honest, I don't really know much and my answer is more random than a diagnostic so don't pay much attention to me. I'm just bumping this thread to provide moral support that's all . These forums are great to help out, so don't give up just yet.

[IndyTom]

Did you say that your dealer did a Valve job on the head? Perhaps they didn't do a very good job of it or perhaps misaligned the head gasket. Sounds to me that the timing is off or there is a massive vacuum leak. That would explain the running rich part and the bad gas mileage but it shouldn't burn excessive oil. Very strange.
Who did the coil, wires and Spark Plug replacement? Also the dealer I assume? Not sure if you are comfortable pulling one of the spark plugs and seeing how it looks.
Keep us posted and hopefully you will get it running again soon.

[05yellowbeetle]

Don't give up girls with yellow bugs stick together. sometimes the simplest things cause huge problems. Changed the plugs on my other bug, broke a wire, the bug wouldn't run.

[jenny57446]

Good morning everyone!

Okay, so here is the list. I also found out that shortly before I bought her, the previous owners had some work done as well. After going through all of the bills, it dawned on me I have more than $12,000 into the car in just 3 years (mind you, this also includes the fees incurred just for the diagnostics). Can you blame me for wanting to give up?

Date Diagnosis/maintenance performed
2008 Replaced large cooling fan and coolant flange; oil leak found and cleaned transmission pan; drain plug found stripped and rethread oil pan
3/27/2009 rear brakes
9/28/2009 check engine light - codes: P0102, B0423
1/30/2010 check engine light - codes: P0341, P0661, P0134, P0172 MAF sensor replaced
2/17/2010 check engine light - replaced comshaft position sensor, timing belt, tensioner pulley, water pump, thermostat
5/29/2010 check engine light - replaced mid assembly exhaust
6/24/2010 check engine light - codes: 17535, 16556, 16684, 16686, 16687, 16687, 16515
6/28/2010 check engine light - Codes: P0300, P0302, P0303 - replaced spark plugs and wires, ignition coil
7/20/2010 both window regulators replaced
10/24/2010 check engine light - code: P0102 - replaced air meter
10/29/2010 check engine light - code: P0172 - replaced air filter hose and pipe
12/11/2010 replaced tie rods
2/22/2011 check engine light - replaced purge valve
5/23/2011 check engine light - replaced MAF sensor (again) and front strut mounts
7/7/2011 check engine light - no codes given except notes indicating MAF sensor fault and ignition fault
9/14/2011 check engine light - dealer noted multiple faults but none given; intake air hose replaced
9/28/2011 check engine light - no codes given; replaced coil pack, spark plug wires, under belly pan, seal at cowl wiper grill area


So what's the consensus?

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by jenny57446

So what's the consensus?

I think the consensus is that if you give up now your dealer will go out of business Seems like they diagnosed and repaired and replaced things and still didn't get anything done. I would never take the car back to them again. They are just ripping you off Big Time.
Personally, you are right. I would be discouraged too after all this mishap and money. You could've almost had a brand new car for what you put in this one.
If there is a reputable Euro/VW shop in your area I would have them at least look at it and give them your list of things that were already done to the car. Perhaps they can actually find what is wrong with it and fix it. If it isn't running right then you won't get anything out of it the way it is if you tried to sell it.

I wish you luck and hope that things will work out for you!

[BluBug48]

Don't give up on your Beetle. I am having a 2001 NB GLS 2.0 with 97K miles rebuilt and repainted. It never had anything done to it before by prior two owners except tires, gas and oil but fortunately was a Florida car most of its life.
About 3.5 to 4 hours from Baltimore here in Lancaster Co. VA is a very reputable automotive repair business which others recommended to me and I have found to be outstanding: Bay Auto Service Inc, 36 American Dr, Kilmarnock, VA. Phone: 804-435-3766. Ask for Jimmy.
It may be a hike for you, but they know what they are doing at Bay and they will treat you like you are their only customer.
Best of luck with your Beetle.
BluBug48 (Lancaster, VA)

[Smileybug]

Looks like you have a lot of codes thrown but the dealer didn't tend to them. The P0102 code showed up early on but wasn't addressed until much later.

I also see a few codes that point to an o2 sensor but doesn't look like it was ever replaced. That can certainly cause issues...not nearly as bad as you have but it can bring down mileage.

It seems like they aren't really doing the right troubleshooting to figure out your problems. You had the spark plugs, wires and coil pack replaced a year apart. The first time, I think it was warranted, but with no codes given the second time, who knows. I would get the car to another shop ASAP. There is definitely something going on and it seems the dealer isn't going to fix it.

Do you have a CEL now? Even if you don't, it might not hurt to try to get your codes read. Autozone etc will do that for free.

[jenny57446]

The work done originally was done by independent mechanics while I was trying to search for someone who knew how to work on the vehicle. I started taking it to the dealer finally because there were so many times I took it to another shop claiming to know how to work on foreign cars yet couldn't explain the codes (or they were horrifically more expensive then the dealer). When I had the work done at the dealer and they couldn't explain the problems, their excuse to me was that the parts done outside of the dealership weren't genuine VW parts and therefore they couldn't guarantee their performance. I was desperate for it to be fixed so I allowed them to replace them.

Yes, the CEL is on now. I really don't drive it unless its raining or I have another reason why I can't walk to work or take the bus. I really miss my car.

So, I am back to my original question: does anyone know (personally) of a mechanic in the Northern VA area who can help me? My next step will to take it to a Pep Boys to get the codes (fingers crossed that it will get there AND back). I will report when I can make that happen. I appreciate the lead BluBug, but the poor car won't make that trip. Being that I "am" handy, I wish there was a shop around here willing to teach me how to work on it myself, that would certainly help with my diminished budget. I can tear apart a computer and put it back together, fix a leaky faucet, and insulate a window with my eyes closed, but internal combustion engines are not part of my repertoire. But taking it yet again to another mechanic who will charge me a couple hundred dollars just to tell me what "may" be wrong with it is not within my short supply of funds. If I can find someone who is reputable and proven, someone I can trust to really tell me how it is, I would make the sacrifice to get another year or so out of the poor thing (BTW - I checked that list. Many look too far away and the ones close claim to be parts distributors, not mechanics, but I will look into them). If not, I am going to have to sell her. Maybe someone out there will be willing to at least give me enough to cover the brand new struts and tie rods.

Thanks all for listening!

[Smileybug]

Get the codes that are there now. Autozone, etc. will read them for free. I also posted both the TDI mechanics link and a link from VWVortex for mechanics in your area. Take a peek and hopefully you can find someone.

[VWTBS]

I'm so sorry to hear what happened to your yellow bug.
I've done some research and came across with a shop in Arlington, which is about 8miles away from Alexandria. The shop is called "Bug & Bunny Clinic Inc", they seem to have good reviews and specialize in VW.
The shop is located in 3902 Wilson Blvd, Arlington, VA. 703-243-2374.You can give them a call and see if they could help you figure out the problems.
I think Mr. Carter is the guy that all the reviewers talked about.
Good luck!

[texvw]

Just wanted to throw in my support. There are good VW mechanics out there. I'm in Dallas and am lucky to have a couple of good ones in the area. I've only gone to the stealership to have a key made and some trim pieces I could not find on Ebay, VW parts sites, etc...

I've already spent over $1000 on mine since I got him in December, so I can feel your pain. And I still have a lot more work to get him the way I would like.

Good Luck!
vicki

[Lnzbug]

Where's Toad?