car coughs when accelerating

[fraizoo37]

So here I am again with another problem. This forum was SO helpful when I had my sunroof drain problem so I'm going to give it another shot before taking it to the mechanic.

My car (NB 2000 1.8l ) started making this weird thing when I accelerate. It only does it when I accelerate suddenly (trying to get on the highway or passing somebody...) It's accelerating fine and then coughs for a couple second so I let go of the gas and then keeps accelerating fine...it's done a couple times now, plus another couple times when I was actually trying to make it happen. It seems to happen mainly in 3rd 4th and 5th gear. I have NO idea if it could be related to the fact that for 1st time in a really long time, I got my gas in a different place than usual? I don't think so.

If anybody has any idea what's wrong with it, please help! I'm taking it for an oil change on Tuesday so I might ask them to check, but if I get told it's not a big deal I won't ask cause I know they'll find something expensive to fix :/

Thanks for your help!!!

[IndyTom]

Is it a 5 Speed or Automatic? My guess it is a 5 Speed. And this "coughing" what actually happens? Is it when you accellerate in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear. Do the RPMs go up but the car isn't accellerating? Perhaps only for a second or two and then catches itself?

One word. "Clutch" It is slipping and on it's way out. Usually manifests itself in the upper gears first. 4th or 5th, then the lower gears 3rd, etc.. It will happen more frequently and eventually the clutch will fail completely.
I would have that fixed ASAP. Because if you let it go too long it will put unnecessary strain on the transmission itself and you don't want it to go out. A new Clutch kit including a Pressure Plate, Friction/Clutch Disk and Flyhwheel runs about 300-350 bucks. Installation will depend on where you take it. I know some shops in my area that will do it for around $250. Others may charge a higher fee. I would say about $700-750 installed would be a fair price.

Now just to be sure it is the clutch. Take it on an open less traveled road. Coast around 30mph. Shift into 4th gear and then put the pedal to the Metal. (Floor it). Notice the RPMs.
If they go up rapidly but your car isn't moving any faster then it is definitely your clutch.

If that isn't it then it can be any number of things. Like a vacuum leak, dirty Throttlebody, any number of sensors. (Speedsensor, Coolant Sensor, MAF sensor, etc..)
Is your check engine light on? Have it scanned at your local Autoparts store. They usually scan it for free. Write down the codes and let us know what they are.

Keep us posted. I am curious to what it might be.
I assume your timing belt and waterpump have been already replaced?

[fraizoo37]

thanks for such a fast answer! I haven't noticed any difference in the actual acceleration...i'm not sure the RPMs go up more than usual but I'll definitely keep an eye on it. I intend on selling the car in about 6 months so I sure hope I don't have to throw 800 dollars into it right now

It is a 5 speed. The first time it happened I was already in 5th gear and wanted to pass someone on the highway so I accelerated pretty quick and the car kind of had to catch itself for a second and it felt like it was...coughing. The second time was the next day and I had just put it in 3rd gear, accelerating to get to 4th.

My check engine light has been on ever since I bought the car. I had it checked several times, last time was about a year ago I would say and it wasn't anything serious so I didn't get it fixed.

Timing belt and water pump haven't been replaced in the time I've had the car (I've had it for 2 years) but I don't know if it had been done before. btw I didn't say that I have 109k miles on it.

[fraizoo37]

I took it for a spin around the block and on the highway just for one exit, and it didn't do it. I didn't push it either though. The acceleration seems good to me, the RPMs go up as the car accelerates...I looked around a little bit online and I don't have any of the signs of a clutch slipping :/ I don't know, this is bothering me!!

[IndyTom]

I would have the car scanned again and then post the codes. It will give us a better idea on what might be wrong with the car.

If the timing belt and or waterpump have never been replaced then my friend with over 100k miles on the clock you are on borrowed time. It should have been changed no later than 75k miles. Being at 109k miles with the original timing belt and water pump is very dangerous. Once that timing belt goes the valves will meet the pistons and they will have a very headbanging experience. Then if you are lucky it will only cost you about 3000 Dollars for a rebuilt head. However, if the pistons are damaged then that amount will easily double. Most shops will install a timing belt kit which includes new timing belt, accessory belt, tensioner, pulley, waterpump etc. for about $750 (including parts and labor) Dealers charge between 1100 and 1600 for the same service. That coughing could be your engine telling you it needs some attention. It may be dangerous to ignore it.

Where are you located? Perhaps a fellow Orger can recommend a shop near you.

[fraizoo37]

I don't know if they have been changed or not, that's the problem. I bought the car when it had 97k...so it might have been replaced before...i'm not sure how I could know

I'm in Cincinnati, OH. I like my mechanic but as a woman not knowing much about cars + I'm french so they hear I have an accent, they could tell me anything and I don't want to get fooled!

I've been taking my car to the mechanic at least 20 times since I got it, for minor things like oil change, to bigger and more expensive things...I've had the serpentine belt changed, the air pump, the back brakes and other stuff I can't even think of...so believe me, it has had more attention than it should, which is why I would think that something as big as the timing belt would have gotten noticed? I don't really know how mechanics work but I guess they check major things when you take it in right?

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by fraizoo37

I don't know if they have been changed or not, that's the problem. I bought the car when it had 97k...so it might have been replaced before...i'm not sure how I could know

I'm in Cincinnati, OH. I like my mechanic but as a woman not knowing much about cars + I'm french so they hear I have an accent, they could tell me anything and I don't want to get fooled!

I've been taking my car to the mechanic at least 20 times since I got it, for minor things like oil change, to bigger and more expensive things...I've had the serpentine belt changed, the air pump, the back brakes and other stuff I can't even think of...so believe me, it has had more attention than it should, which is why I would think that something as big as the timing belt would have gotten noticed? I don't really know how mechanics work but I guess they check major things when you take it in right?

You are not too far from me then. I am in Indianapolis. I visit the IKEA in Cincinnati once in a while

There is a very nice shop in Cincinnati called TD Performance.
They did some work on my Audi TT in the Past and did excellent work. The owner or manager is a former VW/Audi/Porsche Mechanic and they do good work on those cars.
Here is a link: TD Performance

I hate to tell you this but there are no warning signs for a timing belt to snap. That is why there is a set schedule for replacement. Usually the rule of thumb is 75k miles or 6 years whatever comes first. However, a lot of people ignore the service schedules or sell just before this service is required in order to avoid paying for it. The timing belt usually is not checked by mechanics unless you specify them to do so. Since you just had your Accessory belt/Serpentine Belt changed that makes me believe that your timing belt needs to be replaced as well since both are usually replaced with the timing belt service. You can ask your mechanic to take off the upper timing belt cover and see how the belt looks. But unless it is frayed or missing a few teeth there isn't a sure way to tell how old this belt really is.
If you don't want put much more money into the car then I would suggest to sell the car now while it is still running that way you will at least still get some money out of it and then get something a little more reliable.

I would still get the car scanned for codes. Autozone or O'Reileys does it for free. Have them mark down the codes and post them here. That way we will have some idea on what is going on.

[fraizoo37]

will do! thanks for the advice. I'm going back to France this summer so I hope the car can hold on until then...if not I'll just sell it and take the bus for a few months haha! I'll ask my mechanic to check the timing belt for me, hopefully he will have good news for me. the serpentine belt was the first thing I ever changed on the car, so that was in february or march 2010.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by fraizoo37

will do! thanks for the advice. I'm going back to France this summer so I hope the car can hold on until then...if not I'll just sell it and take the bus for a few months haha! I'll ask my mechanic to check the timing belt for me, hopefully he will have good news for me. the serpentine belt was the first thing I ever changed on the car, so that was in february or march 2010.

I used to travel a lot to Cergy Pontoise when I was still working for Carlson Wagonlit Travel. We did travel for Johnson Controls and I visited the offices all over Europe twice a year. Cergy Pontoise was one of those Offices. I liked it there. It's the first place I have been to where they have Champagne for lunch

I hope the car will last you a little while longer. If you changed your Serpentine belt in 2010 then I am almost 100% positive that the timing belt has never been changed. The Serpentine belt is part of the Timing belt service and when it is going bad than the timing belt is going bad. Only problem is that the timing belt is more important than the serpentine belt. When the serpentine belt goes the worst thing that can happen is that your alternator stops charging the battery and eventually your car will stall. But when the timing belt breaks your engine will be destroyed. If you ever get a Beetle again buy a 2006 or newer Beetle with a 2.5 engine. Those have a timing chain which never needs to be replaced

I hope your mechanic is experienced in VW's. If he isn't than he may not even know what to look for. Again, there is no real sure way of knowing how old that rubber timing belt is just by looking at it. This the single most important service that needs to be performed on any 1.8 liter engine.

Good Luck to you!

[fraizoo37]

Thanks for all your help! You must have had a fun time travelling all over Europe

I have no idea how to find out if the timing belt has been done already. However, I know something has been done around there because when I had the serpentine belt replaced, it snapped again a week after, so I brought it back to VW (that's where I was going when I first got my car cause I had no idea where to go) and they told me that the poulie it goes around (or something) had been changed before, and it was bigger than what it should be, so the serpentine belt was tighter and that's why it snapped (thanks VW, stupid). So they had to change the poulie and the belt. So I'm thinking somebody had already worked on it before...now that doesn't mean the timing belt was touched but hey, a girl can hope.

I really need my car to hold on for a couple more thousand miles cause I really don't drive it that much. I do around 400 miles a month, and i intend to sell it in about 5 months, so I'm hoping it will survive until then without big money haha

I haven't had a chance to go get the check engine scanned but if I do I will post the codes here. I'm going for an oil change on Tuesday so I'll ask them to check around, who knows...

Thanks again IndyTom!

[Smileybug]

You can get the codes scanned at any auto parts store for free.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by fraizoo37

Thanks for all your help! You must have had a fun time travelling all over Europe

I have no idea how to find out if the timing belt has been done already. However, I know something has been done around there because when I had the serpentine belt replaced, it snapped again a week after, so I brought it back to VW (that's where I was going when I first got my car cause I had no idea where to go) and they told me that the poulie it goes around (or something) had been changed before, and it was bigger than what it should be, so the serpentine belt was tighter and that's why it snapped (thanks VW, stupid). So they had to change the poulie and the belt. So I'm thinking somebody had already worked on it before...now that doesn't mean the timing belt was touched but hey, a girl can hope.

I really need my car to hold on for a couple more thousand miles cause I really don't drive it that much. I do around 400 miles a month, and i intend to sell it in about 5 months, so I'm hoping it will survive until then without big money haha

I haven't had a chance to go get the check engine scanned but if I do I will post the codes here. I'm going for an oil change on Tuesday so I'll ask them to check around, who knows...

Thanks again IndyTom!

You are very Welcome fraizoo37
I hope your car will hold out a little longer for you. Let me know when you are selling the car. I may have a friend here that might be interested.
If you do get it scanned please report back and let us know. I am curious what the codes are. Perhaps they will shed some light onto the mystery.
Have a fun day!

[fraizoo37]

So I know it's been forever but I've been really busy and forgot to come back here to give an update. Mechanic checked a few things but couldn't find another explanation than what i thought: since I'm not an agressive driver, the car's not used to accelerate fast and suddenly, which lead the injection thing to freeze for a second. no biggie according to him.

car has been running fine except for today I checked the coolant level, don't know why, just an intuition, and it's just under the minimum bar :/ it used to be just over it. I'm kind of bummed but i'll take it for a quick top off I guess. The light hasn't been coming on so I guess it's fine

[nitroman]

Originally Posted by fraizoo37

... I'm kind of bummed but i'll take it for a quick top off I guess. The light hasn't been coming on so I guess it's fine ...

Make sure to use only distilled water and/or/with G12 coolant. Unless it was previously flushed out and someone accidentally put in another coolant. The G12 coolant and other off-the-shelf types don't mix well, it will gel up and stuff.

[IndyTom]

Also if you are loosing coolant there has to be a reason. Check for leaks around the water pump are and coolant flange.