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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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Over the christmas holidays I decided to do the timing belt, water pump and tensioner.I couldn't get the balancer bolts out so while I had it apart I changed the pump and tensioner and had to put it back together as I couldn't get a new center crank bolt in time for her to go back to school.I picked up the crank bolt and the dealer told me the torque was 90 lb's + quarter turn.This seems high to me does any one have any suggestions.Also any advice on removing and installing
the crank bolt.I also picked up a front seal any help with with that would be appreciated.Thanks for the help. |
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The Bentley's shows 90 N-m (66 ft-lb) + 1/4 turn.
They also show using a tool that attaches to the tapped holes in the timing belt sprocket to hold the crank as the center bolt is removed. There is also a special seal removal tool. I've never done a main oil seal myself, so maybe someone else can jump in. |
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Incidentally, if you are experiencing an oil leak at the main seal the problem could be the crankcase vent hose is plugged, and not that the seal is bad. See:
Yellow goo? What to do. I found that the leak in my rear main oil seal stopped when I cleaned out the vent hose. |
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The tool used is like this one from metalnerd. It holds the crank still while the bolt is removed.
Specialty Bits and Drivers - VW Engine Tools from Metalnerd They also sell a impact socket that fits the bolt. |
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The problem I got is I can't get the smaller balancer bolts out.I'm going to have to remove the balancer and gear as one unit by taking out the centre bolt.Is it okay to use an impact to remove the bolt?How would I hold the crank to torque the new bolt?Thanks
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I've heard of people engaging a pry bar into the teeth of the starter ring on the flywheel to hold the crank. Not sure if it is advisable here...
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That could be the only problem with the seal. Just saying...
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