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Old 01-26-2013, 02:02 AM
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Default A/C issue a/c works but takes forever

I have a 2008 nb with the 2.5 automatic, the car has 47k miles. The issue we are having is, when you turn on the A/C the air coming out is about outside temp. It is not hot for say, it just feels like you have the vent on. After driving the car for 10 to 15 miles and pushing the resuscitation button on and off a few times the A/C will start to work. The A/C blows cold, very cold!! and seems to be fine working once its going. Do I have the bushing issue I have read about that is a PIA to fix or, is it something else I need to look for??
I am a newbe to VW and to the bug Any ideas/help would be great, I will check the thread in the morning...
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:37 AM
Wife's 01 1.8T mechanic
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Car: 01 1.8T Sport, 00 TDI Jetta (and a bunch of GM V8s)
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The AC fuse is likely corroded. Remove and inspect your green fuses on top of the battery. If any of the blades are black, sand to clean, and apply dilectric grease, and reinstall. Of course, if the fuse box is already melted, you need to replace it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:02 PM
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Thank you, I will pass that info along to the dealer (not a VW Dealer) we bought the car from. We just dropped the car off to the dealer since it came with a 3 month/3k mile warrantee. We had to leave it with them since they could not find any issue with the a/c when we were there. They want to leave the car sit for a day so they can try to replicate the problem we have.
If that is not it, where should the next place be to look? The KIA dealer gave us a free loner SUV until they have it fixed.

The other intermittent problem is the drivers side door lock sometimes not locking with the remote. I did a search and found that it is most likely the solder around the 6 pins coming apart.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:36 PM
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Car: 1999 GL 2.0
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You can check the fuse easily yourself. It is under a plastic cover that is right on top of the battery. This is actually a fairly common problem. See:

A/C Fuse Melted

I think you are on the right track with the door latch. The solder joint problem is common.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for all the great info. The car is at the dealer since its under warrantee or I would be checking things my self. I passed on the information I got here to them and they checked the fuse and the fuse box and they are in fine condition. The issue they think is low freon pressure.

Last edited by s2kpuddydad; 01-26-2013 at 10:48 PM..
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:31 AM
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When they checked the A/C system today after the car sat at the dealership overnight it was not working. They put a set of gauges on it and found the pressure being low.

The tech thinks that once the car gets warmed up after driving it awhile the pressure in the A/C system builds enough to get the A/C to engage and work.
The tech added freon to the system and the air is working fine when you turn it on. They are keeping the car another day to be sure it works from a cold start tomorrow.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:04 AM
Wife's 01 1.8T mechanic
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Car: 01 1.8T Sport, 00 TDI Jetta (and a bunch of GM V8s)
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Get them to test for leaks. If it's low on freon, there is a leak.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:37 AM
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Just to clarify something, since the Beetle has the 2.5L engine, the "fuse" issue won't not apply. The 4 cylinder Beetles (gas and diesel) used a Fan Control Module to turn on the AC compressor, and there is a 30A fuse on top of the battery for the Fan Control Module. Due to poor electrical connection of the fuse block on the battery, there would be resistance as the fuse connection. Resistance = heat. Heat = melting fuse block.

The 2.5L engine uses the Fuel Pump Relay (J17) to supply power to fuse S232 (10A) that in turn feeds power to the A/C Compressor Regulator Valve (N280) and is grounded by the Engine Control Module (J220).

Also, freon is a bit of a "use it or loose it" kind of thing. It is possible there is a leak, but an AC system that isn't used is more likely to leak than a system that is used. Also, fun and games in that leak testing often involves pulling a vacuum on the system. This can pull poor fittings, like a bad O-Ring, to tighten up and seal up under vacuum so there are no leaks. But under pressure, connections push away from each other and then a leak might happen. Racoons chewing on AC pressure hoses... that is a leak.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:14 PM
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Thanks again for all the great and very informative tech. The more I know about this car the better life will be for me. Out of all the forums I am a part of this forum is right there at being the best with Great people and good advice. I had a good feeling beetle people would be passionate about their cars

Being here in Florida the A/C is used daily I would think.
I will use a A/C leak sniffer on the car once I get it back to see if it beeps any when I wave it around the system and lines.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:35 PM
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Well...went to go pick up the car today at the dealer and guess what! The A/C still doese not work they said everything was working fine?? I have no reason not to believe them but, at this point I have no clue what can be causing the issue. The A/C works once the car is warmed up and has been driving for a while but for the first 15 to 30 minuets no A/C
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:32 AM
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Car: 1999 GL 2.0
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Try turning the ignition to "run" without starting the engine. Press the A/C button. Do both of the radiator fans come on?
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:07 AM
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The dealer thinks that the A/C compressor is bad. When the car is started cold and the A/C is turned on the pressure on the low side is high and the air does not blow cold but once the car is warmed up and running for a while the pressure becomes normal and the A/C works fine. They say the compressor runs all the time and when you turn on the A/C to use it the switching is not working right.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:09 PM
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Car: '03 Vert GLX 1.8t 6 speed Tip
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May not be your issue, however, on the 1.8t and maybe the 2.0 I think it is possible to not route the belt correctly around the AC pulley and this may cause the pulley to slip?

So before you give in to an expensive repair, check the basics and make sure the belt is properly routed and the compressor comes on when the A/C button is pushed on the dash.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:45 PM
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That is a good idea and I hope they take note to the diagram showing how the belt is routed. The repair(s) are not costing us anything since the car came with a no cost warrantee.

What sucks is we bought the car a week ago today, had it for a little more than a day and it's been back at the dealer ever since. We are not exspecting to get back till maybe Friday
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:15 PM
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I hope to have a answer on this on Monday, dealer still has the car and they replaced the A/C compressor. They want to be sure it is fixed before they give us back the car.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:15 PM
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Had the car back a few days now and everything is working just fine New compressor and a new dryer, evact and recharge seems to have fixed the issue.
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