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Old 03-27-2006, 01:58 AM
iScott's Avatar
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Default Pics of my painting and other stuff

These pictures are stupid. But here ya go.

Incase you don't have eyes...
1. The steering wheel without the spoke covers. Easily removed with a flathead.
2. Door handle without the covers.
3. and 4. Tools I used to get rubbery stuff and paint off.
5. Spoke covers with primer.
6. Door handle covers with primer, paint, and clear coat.
7. Spray paint I used.
8. Showing some Apple love.
9. Noir'a at night.
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:27 AM
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good job so far.

i haven't done my spokes yet because i'm afraid i'll break them off the wrong way and them be screwed.

and make sure you throw some polish on your finished pieces before puttin 'em back in the car, even if it's just your regular car wax. triple thick clearcoat shows triple deep scratches. (i speak from experience.)
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:37 AM
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Ok. So just throw a good coat of Maguires on it or something?
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:46 AM
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i haven't ever polished any myself, but Fowvay said after he finished painting, he wet sanded, used a little rubbing compound (which got the paint smooth as glass), and then applied a few coats of Meguiar's No. 7 Show Glaze (which i priced ~$14 a bottle at Pep Boys).

When i paint my next parts (actually finish the ones i have laying on the bar at home waiting for clear), i plan on wet sanding with some crazy-high grit paper, and then a couple coats of either that glaze or my Tech Wax.

here's what his came out like (and what i hope to achieve)...
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:50 AM
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Wet sanded? Won't that just take the paint off? I guess it wouldn't if I used a really fine grain and didn't use too much pressure.

What kind of rubbing compound could I use?
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:55 AM
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wet sanding would take a layer or 2 of clear off, but just put those 2 extra on to begin with.

as for rubbing compound...



my dad used this stuff to strip the spray paint off my little brother's pinewood derby car when he decided he wanted a different color. he was only rubbing as hard as i do when i sand stuff. i don't think i could use it gentle enough to not go through my color coats.
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:57 AM
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the idea is that the rubbing compound is part liquid so it will more evenly sand and smooth the surface. i think my wet sanding should be enough for me.
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:25 AM
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Wet sanding will flatten the clearcoat surface and if done right should not even go through you top clear coat. When you are finished your paintjob will look dull (almost like a matt finish) then you use the rubbing compound to bring out the shine in the clear, and have that deep paint look.
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:29 AM
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well then. sounds like i'll be using all 3 steps.

thanks yelojkt!
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:53 AM
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And this helps me as well. Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:54 AM
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Oh and lookin good Scott.
copycat!
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Old 03-27-2006, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FineExampl
And this helps me as well. Thanks!
Mission accomplished, mate.

What can I say; you inspired me. Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:01 PM
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I dig it all... but you should head over to the missing bite, throw them about $4 and buy an oval euro Apple logo (100% vinyl, easier to remove, and it looks a bit nicer than the standard issue ones). Just something to think about
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcfoxie
I dig it all... but you should head over to the missing bite, throw them about $4 and buy an oval euro Apple logo (100% vinyl, easier to remove, and it looks a bit nicer than the standard issue ones). Just something to think about
Man, this site kicks ace! But I'm not too keen on that oval sticker. Thanks for the site, though.

I'm going to go buy some rubbing compound and do it to those door handles. Then I'll take more pics and let you know how it comes out.

Last edited by iScott; 03-27-2006 at 01:33 PM..
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Old 03-27-2006, 05:55 PM
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One of the paper salesmen we deal with gave me a good tip for post-clear coat sanding. He said that using a really fine steel wool pad would work well, followed by a good wax. A good example is this:

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...r/output_print

I'm gonna grab some of this at Home Depot and use it on my door handles later tonight.
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:09 PM
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Is it safe to assume that this is probably the same things and steps to doing my interior side panels?
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilinaDM101
Is it safe to assume that this is probably the same things and steps to doing my interior side panels?
yup. the process is exactly the same, except on a much bigger scale.

thats why FineExampl has been trying to see which chemicals eat away the rubbery gunk best. he was trying out the different things on his little pieces to find which works best and quickest before moving on to his center dash console.

plus you have to take a lot more care in spraying and finishing big panels like those.
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:57 PM
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Amen. I still havent found anything. Looks to me like it's good old fashioned elbow grease as the best and safest bet.
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manoverboard987
yup. the process is exactly the same, except on a much bigger scale.

thats why FineExampl has been trying to see which chemicals eat away the rubbery gunk best. he was trying out the different things on his little pieces to find which works best and quickest before moving on to his center dash console.

plus you have to take a lot more care in spraying and finishing big panels like those.



Talking about the center dash console....how exactly are you supposed to paint that? does it pop off someway? if so, how?
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXRockyHorrorsXx
Talking about the center dash console....how exactly are you supposed to paint that? does it pop off someway? if so, how?
It's a very involved process from what i understand. I do understand why people just buy the 3D cover instead of painting the stock dash.
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