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Old 10-25-2016, 06:27 PM
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Default Stalled, cranks but won't start

I have an issue with my 01 beetle. It stalled when I was driving and now won't start again. It does crank over. We got the same codes p0725, p1780, p1850. My question is, if the fuel primes when the door opens (if I hear it) does that mean it isn't the fuel pump? We tried to hook it up tho a fuel pressure gauge (rented from auto store) but not sure if we did it correctly as there was no instructions on how to hook it up, and we got no reading of pressure.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:10 PM
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Car: 02' Turbo S
Default Stalled, cranks but won't start

Your post is in a area; not dedicated to troubleshooting car problems but for suggestions related to this site.

Lets move on to your questions and trouble codes:


http://www.autocodes.com/p0725.html

http://www.autocodes.com/p1780.html

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18258/P1850

The main thing that is a obvious non start problem; is the crank/speed sensor failure, as shown in the trouble code P0725. When purchasing a new one; get a high quality oem Bosch part. You can look up the correct part number here:

https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/

As for the hearing fuel pump turn on; that doesn't necessarily mean, it is a good pump or the fuel pressure is in spec. Let is know, which engine you have and we can give the service manual procedures, for pressure testing.

Hooking up the test gauge is straight forward: connect the "t" style adapter, to the pressure gauge. Then remove the fuel line off of the fuel rail and connect it one aide of the "t". Then, add another piece of hose to the other end and connect it to the fuel rail, extra hose is usually in the test kit or get more from a auto parts store. At that point with the hose clamps tightened sufficiently; you can start the testing process.


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Got a trouble code? Look it up; on the Ross Tech Wiki!
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Then, use google; to find the best prices! :-)

Last edited by billymade; 10-25-2016 at 08:35 PM..
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:26 PM
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The censor would keep it from starting? I know my son did an oil change last week, he said the sensor is next to the oil filter and could have possibly bumped it lose enough to not make connection anymore. Is this possible?

Last edited by Britto; 10-25-2016 at 08:41 PM..
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:37 PM
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It is the 2.0L, automatic trans. Also, everything I have found on this site for the "crankshaft position sensor', states that the cars usually start then stall after 10 minutes or so. I am sure that is not always the case but just checking. Ours won't start at all. It turns over, but acts like there is no fuel. In which we had just filled up and were on the home from the gas station.

Last edited by Britto; 10-25-2016 at 10:49 PM..
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:39 PM
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Default Stalled, cranks but won't start

Anything is possible but they are known to fail. Quick spark check: pull a plug, connect to a spark plug wire, ground it on the head and have a helper turn the engine over, see if there is spark.

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswag...ion/locations/

Getting some staring fluid; could quickly check the fuel situation but a pressure test, would be better. .

Fuel pressure testing:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswag...pecifications/

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Last edited by billymade; 10-25-2016 at 10:53 PM..
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:29 PM
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This may be a newbie question, but can you check the fuel pressure even if the car doesn't start?
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:48 PM
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As you turn the car over; you should get normal fuel pressure and then, fuel pressure should be maintained at specified residual pressure after 10-15 minutes. Check the above link for testing and pressure spec info.


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Old 10-30-2016, 05:01 AM
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So we ordered and replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and still won't start. Not sure if it could be one of the other codes. Any advice?
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:22 AM
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Are you getting spark? Have you checked the fuel pressure or used starter fluid, to confirm a fuel delivery issue?

Last edited by billymade; 11-06-2016 at 10:03 PM..
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:49 PM
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So we took it to a mechanic. He said that he found that it seems to be electrical because the fuse on #10 keeps blowing. Due to his price by the hour, we choose to bring it back home and look for a short or something. We did find that the fuse does not blow oi the ecu is unplugged [suggested by the mechanic to test] any suggestions.
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:08 PM
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I guess, you need to get a good wiring diagram and figure out; all the thing connected to the #10 fuse. Then you could try and disconnect; each device, connected to it. There are also more sophisticated short finder tools; you could try as well: (e.g. power probe ECT2000) among others out there:

https://www.google.com/search?q=shor...hrome&ie=UTF-8


If you end up thinking the ecu is the issue; you could remove it and open it up, look for any visual damage and "smell" test? Many times, you can see burned, melted components and damaged onboard components, will have a distinct electrical burned acrid smell to them. If it is damaged, you should ship it out; to someone, like BBA REMAN, for a rebuild with a lifetime warranty.

http://stores.ebay.com/BBA-Remanufac...p2047675.l2563

Service manuals with wiring diagrams: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/

Last edited by billymade; 11-06-2016 at 10:13 PM..
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:37 PM
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Does a rebuilt edu need to be reprogrammed asset the dealership also. We did not see any visual damage or smell burnt. Hopefully a bad connection. We took the fuse out and had the car completely off and the port for the fuse was still reading 11.50v and when placing a new fuse even a higher amp fuse it still popped.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:46 PM
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Car: 02' Turbo S
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No, that WHY, rebuilding your original ecu; is the best way to go. IF you replaced it with another new or used one; you would have to do some programming and make repairs, cost even more. This is the case, for New Beetles with the immobilizer system (e.g. years 2000 and beyond).
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