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I read that we must wait for December of 2006 for the recall of the recall.
I lucked out this last time, the dealership didnt charge to "diagnose" I only paid 105.00 for the new sensor and 120.00 for the tow. (I have insurance that kicked in 75.00 for it.)anyways, interesting post, thanks for sharring. ![]() PS: The stealership only charged me 105.00 because my boyfriend happen to have gone to grade school with the service manager (small world) anyways... he said it was normally 150.00.... Crazy.
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My 2001.5 GLS 2.0L Chubby Techno Blue New Beetle "BB" May my Mk III GLX VR6 2.8L Jetta "Fast in Peace" |
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Thanks Phil,just had mine replaced last night under warranty,but I would be willing to bet it won't be the only time it needs replacing,judging from everyones experience here!At least with your clear instructions,I can change mine next time when it's outta warranty!
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I took my car in two weeks ago for this. They didn't have to "diagnose" it, as I told them what to do. I paid $12 (I certainly hope Breez made a typo and didn't pay $105) for the part and $75 for the work... They wouldn't honor the "recall", as there were no "open recalls at this time".
I will write VW and complain about this. They cannot expect us to drive with a faulty brake light switch (meaning no brake lights!) for 6 months before getting it fixed... edit: the switch comes in two versions; a 2-pin and a 4-pin. Make sure you get the right one for your car...
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1998 Red New Beetle 2.0 Automatic Last edited by Lmhansen; 07-21-2006 at 01:55 PM.. |
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Yes, stealerships will charge whatever they think they can get away with. I have mine change the oil, just so I have a record for the powertrain warranty, otherwise stay away, they are pretty shady. Hope this helps with future EPC light/brake light switch problems in the future.
![]() -Audiophil Quote:
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no typo - $105.00 (for a used new beetle I had bought from there dealership two weeks before, and the previous owner did have the first recall done) and they told me I got it discounted.
I was told to contact VWofAmercia after the recall of the recall is anounced in December, they might credit me that amount. This is the only issue I have had with my NB so far, so I won't complain (too much) But if it happens again before the next recall, I will follow the instructions on this thread!!! woo hoo!!! ![]() |
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The switch design itself (even the purple one) is total junk.
It is notorious for failing, and extremely dangerous, so much so that the NHTSA has forced VW to perform (yet another) recall. I got the ESP/Traction Control light again this weekend and noticed my tail-lights were no longer working also. I took this damn switch out and took it apart. The design is a total piece of crap. The whole thing relies on a spring to force a plunger out when the pedal is depressed which slides a set of "shoes" off a set of "cams" on the contacts and allows them to close the circuit (thus let electricity pass) and illuminate the brake lamps. This makes the switch a "fail open" device (when either the spring doesn't generate enough force to move the plunger or the plunger sticks, etc.) which is an extremely unsafe condition, in that the tail-lights will fail to illuminate. I'm posting detail pictures on the guts of the switch of what I am describing: Brake Lamp Switch Assembly {Purple = VW's Second Design Attempt Version}: Disassembled Switch (There was evidence of arcing inside the purple housing and around the outside contacts, see pic 1210 below) Switch Contacts/Black Plastic "Cams" Switch Spring Loaded Plunger w/ "Shoe" (lubricant on shoe) Signs of Arcing Visible Rotation sets shoe in alignment with contact cams... The whole thing needs to be redesigned such that pedal pressure activates the switch directly (switch behind the pedal) and not indirectly (via spring), or the spring force increased significantly, or the entire contacts/cams/shoe internals of the switch itself be redesigned. I'm beginning to think this is why my wife and son were rear-ended last summer. No injuries, but $3k in damage to the bug (rear axle had to be replaced due to off center hit on LR wheel). Can anyone say potential lawsuit? -CKB Last edited by bub; 10-16-2006 at 08:12 PM.. |
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UPDATE: Visited my stealership today. Was told that I would have to buy my own switch, but that there was an "experimental" switch being tried on a few limited cars that I could not buy at this time (it is green and much more substantial looking - no longer Delphi manufactured either).
I had to buy the old purple one (version "E" nontheless - my old one was "D") for around $11. Popped it in myself there at the dealer lot and all is working fine (for now - or for about 10k miles or a year - that's about how long each of the last 3 lasted). I will be sending VW this bill and upgrading to the green switch once the recall becomes effective 12/6/06. It's a safety issue for crissake! -CKB Last edited by bub; 10-17-2006 at 08:14 PM.. |
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Thought I'd give this excellent how-to a bump.
Aphid's switch was replaced under the first recall last summer, and now this switch has crapped out. ![]() If you remove the switch can you drive without brake lights or do you have to have the switch seated to get an automatic out of park? ![]()
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Aphid has been with us since Sept 7, 2002, and even with over 100,000 miles, she's still going strong! |
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Update...if you have an automatic, you must have a working switch to crank & get it out of park or neutral.
![]() Fortunately, we had our Jetta's switch replaced under the first recall about 2 weeks ago, so I popped that switch into Aphid since the Jetta is a 5sp. ![]() Now the problem is in the Jetta, that switch keeps ALL the brake lights on, so when I park, I have to remove it to keep from running the new battery down like the previous faulty switch did. ![]() I guess I can deal with this for a month until the next ones are available. Don't get me wrong...we love our VDubs, but this IS an irritating and potentially dangerous problem, and there is ZERO excuse for VW taking this long to get it right. ![]() |
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Screw this VIN thing and messing around with the dealership...
I just went and bought one...they're cheap...$4.31 list...but I still plan to send the bill to VWoA... Parts guy said they turn harder during the installation "set" than the old ones and have a resistor inside (possibly to minimize the arcing?). At any rate he also said that the instructions (as you can see are included) recommend lubing the tip...you can't make this stuff up... -CKB |
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Wow, thanks bub! I went back to check on this old thread I started and I get to see the new green switch, cool.
"lubing the tip", LOL. That is always good advice, especially if you want to see her a second time... ![]()
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How-To: EPC/Brake light switch fix How-To: Coolant Temp Sensor replacement - p1296 www.ivdub.com/markbug My Bugs: 07 Triple Black Convertible 01 Yellow GL 2.0 (retired) 00 Black GLX 1.8T (retired) 02 Black Turbo S (retired) |
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went to my dearship today and told them what i needed and they all looked at me like i was stupid. They have no idea what i was talking about, even after i show them in my manual what i needed. So can any one hokk my up with a part number? so i can do there work for them.
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Bumping this up because I used these instructions this evening to change my brake light switch myself.
Sparkle, my '99, wouldn't start up for me yesterday evening when me and a friend were leaving the mall. How embarrassing! Dreading the towing bill and the labor bill from the stealership, I decided to search the board for the problem and found it was as easy and buying a $9 brake light switch and changing it myself. (I bought 2 because I was afraid I might break one.) Granted, my brother loaned me his tools and held the flash light for me, but it was one easy solution to a big problem! She started up and shifted out of park perfectly. And it only cost me $18. I LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks!
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More panic than intent; more luck than good judgment. David Gray | "Destroyer" This is Shannon. | This is Sparkle. | This is my (new) MySpace. |
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