"How To" Replace your Pads and Rotors (Front and Rear)

[Fowvay]

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. If you do not have common sense or are sue happy please do not attempt.

Special Thanks Goto, Speedie for contributing a ton of the photos and for the parts he wrote (most of the rear brakes). Don_and_Herbi for his help and UPS for thier timely shipping of parts


Items needed.

New Pads
New Rotors
Metalnerd tool or simalar tool www.germanautoparts.com or www.metalnerd.com.

7mm Hex head socket (allen wrench)
8mm Hex head socket (allen wrench)

Box end wrenches assorted
Sockets set assorted metric.

Anti squel for brake pads
Anti sieze for rotors
Brake Cleaner 2 Cans

Flat head Screw Driver
Hammer

Floor Jack

Time needed 3-5 hours.

Most people jack up the car and set all it up on Jack stands and work on all 4 wheels at once. I personally prefer to do one wheel at a time. The reason I do this is that when I finish one set of pads I get back in the car and push the brake pedal down to set the pads.

The brake resevior will over flow if you press all four calipers in at once if you do just one at a time you elimanate the need to empty the reseviour and avoid having to bleed the brakes at this time.


Now onto the "how to"

Step one.

Jack up the car and remove the front wheel of your choice. ( you should know how to do this. If not have a mechanic change your brakes).

Step 2

Remove anti rattle spring clip from Caliper by prying with the screw driver

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Step 3

Remove both 7mm Hex Bolts

Step 4

Now gently wiggle the Caliper Hat (the thing with the pads in it)

Take that flat head screw driver and Wedge it between the brake pad furthest from you and the Rotor. Pry Back that Caliper piston now. If you can't get it to move now, worry not you can do it later.

Step5

Remove Caliper hat by pulling it away from the rotor (towards the front of the car.)

Step 6
Remove pads ( they will simply slide out)

Step 7
Set the caliper hat on a paint can or similar object to keep stress off of the Brake line.

Step8

Clean everything with Brake cleaner. Dont be afraid to super soak that stuff. ( DO NOT GET ON YOUR PAINT)

Step 9

Remove the two Bolts that hold on the Caliper Carrier. I think they are 15mm but could be 13mm I dont remember off the top of my head.

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Step 10

Insert Phillips Head screw driver into the Rotor centering screw. Hit the screw driver HARD with that hammer several times. This will release the rusty bond between the hub and the screw. Now the screw should simply be able to be removed. I use a high powerd impact electric drill.

Step 11

Hit the Rotor where the yellow X's are in my Photo chopped picture. Keep doing this untill it simply falls off on its own. They tend to rust themselves together because the factory does not use anti sieze...but you will

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Step 12

Paint the back of the rotor (only where it contacts the hub) with anti sieze and put it back on the hub. Replace that retention screw now.

Step 13

Reattatch the Hub carrier

Step 14

You need to still press the caliper piston in, grab a C clamp or use the rear caliper tool and do it now. You can also do it like they do it at the shop. Grab a giant screw driver and simply pry it back as illustrated below.

Step 15

Attatch new lead to the Brake pad sensor. If they do not match up simply cut the wires and mate them together. Using the old lead so as not to permanently screw up the wires. You will only be using the wire on the drivers side so when you do the passenger side simply cut off the entire sensor wire on the brake pad.

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Step 16

Put anti squel on the back of the brake pads. On the one with the sensor paint the anti back on the one in the front put it where indicated in my picture. This way you don't ruin the look of your freshly rebuilt brakes.

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Step 17

Now simply put the caliper back on the caliper carrier and put those pesky 7mm hex bolts back in.

Step 18

Replace the spring clip. I find it easiest to insert both points into the holes and then pry it over the Caliper with that flat head screw driver.

Put the wheel back on Pump the brakes 3-5 times untill the brake pedal is hard and do the other side.

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Ok now onto the rear.

Make sure that you have these self locking bolts (have blue on the threads) before you begin. These bolts connect the rear caliper to the rear carrier. VW and Bentley suggests that you replace the bolts with each change. Since these are your brakes, don't be cheap and buy new ones at $2 a piece from your parts department.

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First you have to disconnect the parking brake cable (make sure the parking brake is not engaged and that you front wheels are chocked). Use a screwdriver to pry off the brake retaining clip.

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Next you need to disconnect the cable. Pess down on the lever and pull the cable out of the lever pocket.

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The cable should hang down.

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Next you need to remove the one time use self locking bolts. They are found on the inboard side on the top and bottom of the caliper. You need to use an open end wrench (15 mm) to hold the guide pin (has rubber boots around it) while using a 14 mm ? ratchet to loosen the bolt. Make sure you have your stand ready to put your caliper on. Once you loosen the bottom bolt, pull the caliper to the rear. The pads may stay on or they may come out with the caliper. You have to pull hard because the pads are adhered to the caliper and they are bedded onto the rotor.

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Next you need to remove the pad retaining springs. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the springs off of the top and bottom. If you are using OEM pads, then you should have a replacement set. If you are using aftermarket pads, they may not have a replacement set (EBC green stuff does not have a replacement). These things are flimsy so be careful with removal if you plan on reusing.

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You should always make sure the caliper retaining clip is clean..I mean super clean and free of any burrs, notches, rust, dirt etc. This is what gives your rear brakes thier smooth action and keeps them from hanging up.

It is critical to remove them everytime you change your pads and clean up the rust on the carrier as indicated in the pics. It would also be wise to apply either a thin layer of high temp grease or anti sieze below the anti rattle clip/ caliper retaining clip.

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Next, clean the caliper housing, pad retaining springs, piston, etc. with brake cleaner and touch up the paint that will not be accessible when the caliper is put together. Next, you have to reset the piston. I can't say this enough, get the piston tool designed for the job!! It may be a little tough resetting the piston at first, but then it should be easy. Screw the piston in all the way until you can no longer move it.

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Here is what the piston looks like reset. Note that the piston for the front caliper is deeply depressed as opposed the rear piston which is not. You need to place the piston reset tool teeth into the teeth on the rear piston (visible in the photo).

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Next you need to add brake disc quiet to the rear pads. Here is where to put it. Note that the rear does not have clips for the piston (the front does), so you need to put the brake disc quiet where it makes contact with the piston.

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Next, put the pad retaining springs back into the top and bottom of the caliper housing. Unlike the front where you had to adhere the pads to the caliper and then put the caliper back onto the carrier...for the rears, you place the pads onto the pad retaining springs. Make sure the pads are flush against the rotor, then simply place the caliper housing onto the pads and screw your new self locking bolts back on. Don't forget to reconnect the parking brake cable and put that parking brake retaining clip back on.

[Fowvay]

Here is the completed set-up. Now is the time to touch up or repaint the calipers.