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| Technical Modifications The place to discuss technical and performance related modifications for the New Beetle. |
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This thread is for discussing the Sway Bar Bushing Replacement how-to located here: DIY: Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
Last edited by noR; 10-31-2007 at 08:42 PM.. |
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Nice write up, I'm surprised nobody commented on this.
If I wanted to remove the front sway bar, did it seem to you like it would be easy to pull it through when the bushings were off?* **EDIT** I found this write-up "Front H&R 26mm Sway Bar Install - How-To". Looks like I've got a fun weekend ahead -Blake
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'02 Platinum Auto, R520 Nozzles, 1856 Turbo, Alligator Tune @25psi, IPT Valve Body, Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs, 3-Bar MAP, Straight-Through Exhaust, Dog Bone Mod, Bio-Diesel MMMmmm Last edited by BlakeS; 09-21-2007 at 12:21 AM.. |
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And then I can jack up the back of the car and remove the 28mm Neuspeed rear swaybar that at on time I had set to make my car oversteer too much. Now that I have it about where it has little under and now oversteer ... I will leave it alone, unless I put the 25mm Neuspeed bar up front which will allow me to tighten the rear a bit more again. People ... this is not a good idea if you have already installed a rear bar .... and if you haven't, I still don't think it is a good idea since it will introduce more body roll into your car. |
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"What is Handling" The above thread was originally on VWVortex but because of the bickering that went on it got moved to TDIClub.com where there is a lot less name-calling a lot more constructive conversation. If you've read it then awesome, you're entitled to your above opinion, but if you haven't then it may change the way you think about suspension, especially the suspension on our cars. -Blake P.S. I agree that if you've already installed a rear sway bar then you shouldn't take off the front. ![]() Last edited by BlakeS; 09-21-2007 at 06:56 AM.. |
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i'm at work so I didn't read the above article and I appologize if I repeating something already said. But there is a difference between stability and handling. VW installed a front sway on these care for stability reasons, not necessarily handling. INstalling a rear sway to balance the front is a great idea as it keeps the car stable and add balance to the handling. Removing the front all together will introduce oversteer, but will also induce body roll and a floating sensation at higher speeds.
everyone needs to read up and make there own judgement based on what they want and how they drive. |
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Having had my car handle great up to a buck and a half ... I'll keep mine. But I will say ... I had problems with my 28mm rear bar when it was set too tight ... it probably would have been fine with a 25mm front .... or a 25mm rear with the stock 23mm bar ... but the 28mm set stiff with the 23mm front was no fun when the rear would whip out and then correcting would swing it back the other way too much ... I think it would be near the same or worse with a stock rear setup and no front bar.
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it isn't too bad. I used a bench vice and a socket to push the old bushings out. I then used the same vice to clamp the new bushing into place. You need to wiggle the arms a little but they will eventually pop into place.
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Reviving a really old thread....the pictures don't show up (at least for me) from the original DIY. Can anything be done about this?
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Kirk & Pam & "Key Lime" "BUGSTUFF" - Unique New Beetle Accessories Northeast IL VW Association Volkswagen Club of America "Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Crown Royal in one hand - Cigar in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO, What a Kick Ass Ride!" |
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I struggled for at least an hour trying to get the bushing bracket bolt back in. As much as I muscled it i couldn't get the bracket close enough to thread the bolt in. So, I went to the dealer and bought the same bolt, except 1/4 inch longer. 8mm thread (I think) and 13mm head. Old one was 3/4 inch long, new one is 1 inch long. Kind of a PITA job - make sure you have a bit of patience.
While I was under there, I found the inner CV boot on the right axle torn and the splash/heat shield that is above the axle loose and rattling. Fixed the shield but will have to take on the boot later. I have no idea how long the CV has been open to the elements so I might have to replace that as well. ![]() |
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VWVortex.com - DIY - Replacing and/or lubricating the front sway bar bushings on a MKIV Jetta/G Here is a link that I used to help me install my new front sway bar bushings and endlinks. This was done on a MK IV Jetta and the procedure and location are identical to the beetle. Only my endlinks were metal not plastic. I replaced my endlinks and the bushings. Endlinks were about 10 bucks each and the bushings about 5 bucks each. It fixed my clunking sound I had in the front. Those bushings wear out and probably only last 2 or 3 years tops. In order to get the bolt started I used a pair of long needle nose pliers. It worked like a charm and I reused the original OEM bolts with a little blue loctite. Worked like a charm. No more clunking sound in the front. Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions. Tom in Indy PS: You have a 23mm swaybar so you will need 23mm swaybar bushings. |
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