Alternator HELP!!! QUick

[Mr.Yellow]

Ok so i need some quick info. I need a new alternator. but i dont know which altornater to get. does a 2.0L have a 70 amp./ 90 amp./ or a 120 amp. alternator?

[SilverSportNOLA]

It really depends on the options in the car. I would think the 70 would be in the GL with roll up windows, no sunroof nor heated seats. See if you can find a part number on the one in there and put it in 1stvwparts.com to see what it comes up with.

[Mr.Yellow]

its a GLS

[gadgetvise]

I have the 120amp alternator on the '03 NBC because the powered convertable roof, heated seats, AC and Monsoon w/ 6cd changer.

What do you have that draws power? Do you plan on larger stereo amps? Do you plan to put a light-bar on the roof? Will you be putting rallye lights for road racing?

The higher power alternator will supply the current as you need it. The regulator will not fry tour smaller system or battery because of the higher current alternator.

Be sure to get one that has a lifetime guarantee. My Chevy Astro van went through three in 170,000 miles; the second one was on me but it was a Mr. Goodwrench deal when we were on vacation in Utah. So the warranty paid for the third alternator when the airport guy killed the battery and alternator after one of our sub-zero weekends here in Colorado.

[Mr.Yellow]

Well its probably gone out because of my sterio i have aftermarket headunit, speakers. and also the sun roof, and electric windows i just need to know the stock one. if i can get the 120 amp. would it be of any benifit. and to answer your question i aint planning on any lights or subs or lightbar.

[gadgetvise]

You would be safe with the 120 amp unit. You are very sure the alternator is bad? The Bosch alternator has a seperate regulator/rectrifier stack that's a little cheaper to replace (no warranty, however).

While you are doing all this work, check the serpetine belt. Since you have to pull the belt part way off anyways.

Here's a quick tip to isolate battery failure from alternator failure. With a voltmeter across the battery, you should read about 13 volts idle. Rev to 2000 rpm, you may get up to 13.5 to 14 volts. If the alternator fails to get up to 14 volts and stays for a minute, the alternator may be bad.

I recommend a digital voltmeter. They are automatic and does not care which way you connect it (it just reads a minus voltage if you have the red wire on the negative.

A fancier way is to load test the car whith a load tester. I got a cheap one from Harbour Freight for $19.95 on sale. It connects across the battery (red to + and black to -). Flip the switch to test for 10 seconds and you can see the meter indicate recovery if your battery/alternator is good. The loads the battery/alternator with a toaster like wire and shows the alternator kicking in after the load heats up.

Good luck

[Mr.Yellow]

yeah i have already checked and i am sure that its the altornator. and the sepentine belt is fine. so i will go ahead and get the 120 amp.

[Mr.Yellow]

Ok so i opted for the 120 amp. and i have gotten the original altornatior(pain in the butt) now just waiting for pepboys to get the new one from the wearhouse

[SPIRU]

Yeah I have a GL and thought I'd have the 70 amp alt, but turns out I had the 90 amp. I replaced mine today, what did you guys pay? Mine was a duralast from autozone for $178.