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| Technical Modifications The place to discuss technical and performance related modifications for the New Beetle. |
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I'm going to install mine tomorrow since I'll have some free time. It's MLK Day!
It has some sort of extension posts that bring a mounting place into accessibility for the front of the plate and the bolts go into inserts. I tried to install it once before but screwed up and had to order another box of inserts so I can start over. |
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You're so cool Jordan, someday I'll grow up and be just like you.
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2000 New Beetle GLS TDI Dieselgeek skidplate, 2" lift w/VR6 springs, 2.5" weedburner side exhaust, HID retro, LED tails, Bernt Pod w/McNally gauges. IN PROCESS: 5 speed swap w/SBC3 clutch and Dieselgeek short shifter, RC3+, PP520 nozzles, 2.5" stainless downpipe, Eurojet SMIC, ABD Cup front bumper. WISH LIST: VNT 17/22 hybrid turbo, RC5 and other silly stuff. |
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don't know if this has been mentioned yet but...
Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Engine > Skid Plate > ES#1876874 Oil Pan Skid Plate - Metal - OEMSKID $50 bucks plus shipping. only thing is it doesn't say what type of 'metal' it is made of.
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'00 1.8t GLS irishyarballs on vwvortex I don't have a badge. I have a laminate. |
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Think about it this way. You bottom out, the force is transmitted through that "shield", through the block, to the motor mounts, etc.
A true skidplate bolts up to the subframe and allows the car to absorb the hit properly through the subframe rather than putting your engine at risk. Why would you want your engine absorbing a hit like that? Does it really count as protection if you pan survives but you break a motor mount or crack your block? |
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Quote:
but if she isn't lowering her car... then really she just needs the basic protection of the stock plate, upgrading to a metal one is going to be even better. me personally, i'm lowering my about 1.5" at most, so i'll definitely get a large one that covers more area. i'm just not so sure if kate needs to do the same. |
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I have been running a panzer plate for 2 winters now.
In addition to that, my ride height is lessened by the weitech 60mm drop springs, and mk3 sized 15" snow tires. [insert smg's ride height pic here] The only issues I have with running this low is high centering. Where I used to be able to bomb through snow without much though, I now have to be wary of how much snow gets packed under the car. Also, I did hit a football sized rock, and that also stopped the car dead in its tracks. If I didnt have the skid plate I would not have a properly formed bellhousing anymore. THe plate took the damage, and saved the engine. Few blows with a 10 lb sledge, and the sp is back on the car. |
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I have torn off the OEM skid pans twice during my cars history. Both times it happened up North during winter driving when once I tried to reverse over an ice and snow drift and the other time I hit some ice clumps on the road. If I drove anywhere that it snowed some or even in Arizona ( main Rd's. are great but some side roads can be gravel with deep ruts and rocks that can screw up a tranny or oil pan very quickly, I would for sure go with a metal one! Dallas has it's fair share of pot holes, missing pavement, etc. so I replaced them both asap. The OEM units are not that much protection at all, but are good enough for this climate and do help the air flow under the car. Both times I had to replace them happened after my car was lowered. As much as I love what the Eibach Pro-Kit did for my handling, lowered cars don't do well in much snow at all. If I ever move up North I'd be tempted to raise my car and definitely get a Metal skid pad from someone. I've never heard any over heating issues regarding these metal replacements. Go for it! JK
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