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| Technical Modifications The place to discuss technical and performance related modifications for the New Beetle. |
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x2! for a quick fix. But the "not recognizing" sounds like BS to me. I'd talk to an old school automotive locksmith with new school intelligence v. a Dealer, which is where it sounds like you got your information. I assume they have locksmiths down under! (lol) Fing one that's been in business for, oh say, 30-40 years.
This is the best read I have found, with the most definative answers about VW keying, coding, programming, etc. sidewinderkey.com MORAV
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In der Automobil-Scheune '02 NBT, A/T, Moonroof, Platinum Gray, Flannel Gray Leather Interior (Currently on the slab in the morgue, possible ressurection in the offing) '05 NB Convertible, Tip 6sd, Dark Flint Gray Edition, Garnet Red Top, Bordeaux Red Leather Interior '01 Corvette Convertible, Magnetic Red, Light Oak Top, Light Oak Leather Interior '96 Suburban LT 2500, 454BB, Summit White, Neutral Leather Interior '95 Camaro Z28 Convertible, Polo Green, Black Top, Tan Leather Interior Last edited by MyOtherRidesAVette; 01-13-2011 at 06:46 AM.. |
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I don't have the valet key tag as I am not the original owner. Is there another way I can get this code? Cheers |
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MORAV |
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there is another option.
You can take the key top that works and place it inside the steering column, and buy a new blank key top to switch the blade into. The keytop is what lets the immo work. Otherwise this is a full mechanical system. You have a key cut that works the locks, but the immo chip is all that stands in your way... So to me, taking the immo key head and 3M taping it to the inside of the steering column so that the immo computer gets the RFID reading off the chip when it looks for it --regardless of what key was used to physically turn the ignition -- will make your "not working" spare key "work" and you can avoid the high cost of immobilized keys in the future. That's what I'd do.
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Phoenix: 2003 Uni-Red New Beetle GLS TDI 140k former-automatic with a 1998 TDI Manual Transmission swap. |
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8Runs out to car to see if it will work....runs back* how close does the key need to be to the steering wheel?
Also- is there a difference between the DC verses DA? ( refer to my quote) Cheers, |
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I just went thru that with the dealer, they don't need an old key to program, just the vin and they don't cut the key, it comes already cut. Mine was $230 out the door.
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Courage is not the absence of fear, but rather the judgement that something else is more important than fear. —Ambrose Redmoon |
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The existing key works fine no problems but is looking old and raggedy- the VW emblem is scratched off and gauges everywhere- but it works fine. But what is the use of having a spare key if the bugger wont work.
Do you still think that VW would change the key for free even though I purchased it in 2009? At the time I didn't know much about beetles and the bull**** the dealerships spin and so believed them when they said the dash was faulty and decided to leave it be as was not going to fork out the $2000 to get it fixed. It's only now that I have looked into it properly when it has all made sense- I literally put the key in the drawer and forgot about it until now *Faceplant-stupid stupid!* ![]() |
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I bought the car with one key only and no valet so if the mrs or myself loose the only key... well it would not be pretty. I would try to sell it and get the correct one from dealer or a reputable locksmith as MORAV said, the dealer IS NOT your only choice but for me was cheaper than the only locksmith that could cut and program that kind of key. Now if you just want to make it look better then swap the internals like palmettoguy suggested, or they actually sell a case on ebay with new buttons and logo for like $17 free shipping. In my home town the prices from the dealer are $75 fob, $75 key cut from VW and $50 for programming the Fob. Keep in mind these prices vary from different dealers. If you loose the only key you have, towing would be at least that much ![]() EDIT: I still think that the $2000 option was a way for them to make some extra $ and not eat the mistake they made when ordering and, not look like idiots. Otherwise the ECM wouldn't have read and still would not read your existing FOB with out a problem as it does now. Oh boy, the fun I would have had with the service desk at your dealership ![]() Last edited by Tico4Life; 01-14-2011 at 12:26 AM.. |
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Ohh thanks for the key case idea- didn't know you could do that. I didn't think that VW would replace that for me but I will ring and see what they can do for me anyway.
Still don't know the difference between the DC verses the DA version- will ring them and ask- I am in the mood for some dealership bull**** LOL ![]() ![]() |
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Rang and was told to take it in- have booked for tuesday said he would check it out for me. As VW down my way are moving they are actually sharing with Toyota and so far these guys are ten times better than the VW ones I had a few years ago- they were just plain rude. Maybe I will find out the problem after all- Fingers crossed.
No I dont know how to open the key- bit scared to what if I stuff up a good thing with the old key LOL That would be my luck *ooops what just flew out across the room?...Doh!* ![]() |
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The day of truth has finally arrived!! As it happens the original immobilizer had been changed/replaced. The VIN number was not put into the new immobilizer system when it was changed and so when they went to register the new key with VW Australia and VW Germany, there was no information in the system rendering my beetle non-existent-Go figure!!
The original key details stayed in the EMC but was restricting any more keys to be coded. Anyways it cost me $50 (Aust) to get the whole thing re coded and fixed up so now I have 2 working keys and should not *crosses fingers* have any problems in future as all is where it is supposed to be *stupid incompetent immobilizer people!!* Thanks for all your unlimited words of wisdom- very much appreciated!! ![]() ![]() |
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