raising my engine up?

[Chris333]

Was wondering if it is possible to change my engine mounts to raise up my engine in a 2000 NB 2.0.

I have had the car for 8 years with no problems. It has been lowered most of that time. Now I threw lower profile tires on my stock rims (only lowered the car another 1/2")

Well since the tires I ran over something and put a hole in the oil pan. I patched it right there and bought a new pan. Less than a month later I hit a brick in the road and lost all my oil right there. I got a ride home to the new oil pan that was waiting and installed it.

Today, 2 weeks later, I bottomed out on some tracks and the (brand new) pan is leaking.

I can buy another pan, but I would rather lift my engine than lift my bug.

Can it be done?
Any one do it?
How much can you move it?

Thanks
Chris

[2004NBTURBOS]

Why not put a metal skid pan on it. DieselGeeks has them. I think that would be a lot easier.

[Palmettoguy]

Originally Posted by 2004nbturbos

why not put a metal skid pan on it. Dieselgeeks has them. I think that would be a lot easier.

+1

[SixChuter]

I agree, a skid pan is your best option.

[swift801]

i have read about motor mount spacers. if you google it you can find one company that makes them. i don't have the link available. did you notch your frame already? i want to lift my motor using the motor mount spacers, but its guarantee that i'll have to notch it out even more.

[AbuNigel]

If you don't go with any of those options you could get a hybrid oil pan. It makes it so the bottom section is detachable, so if you crack it its significantly less expensive to get back on the road again.

In the mean time, I mean you say you've been driving it lowered for a while so you probably know this, but make sure to leave more space between you an other cars so if sone **** is in the road you have more time to react accordingly.

[swift801]

lol i feel the same way. you always have to be aware of the road. i look like the worst drunk driver you've ever seen.lol i use all lanes of the road to get past whatevers in my way. the motor lift would be great to take the stress off the axles. i've been listening to brand new axles click for about 1k miles. i just hope they keep working through all the clicking.

[jason m]

install a good skid plate or go back with the correct tire. Raising the engine would also require you to raise the transmission otherwise you would change geometry. The exhaust might be a problem (lack of clearance) underhood clearance might be an issue. IMHO skidplate is the way to go.

[Chris333]

I really think a skid plate would make things worse since it would have to hang down lower. Plus aren't they like $350? Oil pans are only $45 (eBay).

My ultimate fix is raising the engine one or two inches.

BTW it scraped again today in the driverthru grrrrrrrrr. Plus it was -4 degrees here in Ohio last night so I haven't even jacked it up to look at the new damage.

[DZLBUG]

That is the stupidest idea I have ever heard.

[Chris333]

Really ?

My car is lowered so I want to bring my engine back online with my wheels and keep the same lowered look.

Anyways I found pics of the 1" spacer blocks, it looks very easy to make myself. Just need longer bolts.


So should I go 1.5". 2"?

[Tico4Life]

Originally Posted by jason m

install a good skid plate or go back with the correct tire. Raising the engine would also require you to raise the transmission otherwise you would change geometry. The exhaust might be a problem (lack of clearance) underhood clearance might be an issue. IMHO skidplate is the way to go.

OP, did you even read this post? What are you planning to do with the tranny and everything that follows?

I mean 1 or 2 inches is a lot. I lifted my truck with "all the right stuff" and a couple of months later the u joints went because I changed the geometry as stated by Jason, you'd be putting some serious stress on a lot of moving parts. I think you are looking for trouble if you choose to go down that path.

Just my 2 cents

[Chris333]

Probably just go an inch. The spacer kit they sell is to iliminate binding of the axles on lowered cars. So raising the engine actually helps things besides my clearance issues.

[Tico4Life]

You call the shots at the end, I mean its your car, all I am saying is I bought a kit complete with all the necessary parts to eliminate problems from lifting, control arms, coils, bushings, shocks and torsion bar. Well gess what, the u joints were affected, the caster on the front axle was affected and other steering related stuff got affected. Again, you call the shots but if if I were you I'd buy the skid plate or bring the car back to its original stance.

[Palmettoguy]

Originally Posted by Chris333

I really think a skid plate would make things worse since it would have to hang down lower. Plus aren't they like $350? Oil pans are only $45(eBay).

Skid Plate $275.00
Oil Pan $45
Driving w/ no oil in your car after cracking oil pan...PRICELESS

[2004NBTURBOS]

Air-ride is an option. They ain't cheap, but if ya wanna run with the bid dogs ya gotta pay the price. I gotta tell ya, I hate when someone is driving all over the road to avoid stuff I drive over, just cause they want their car to look cool. If your gonna be runnin static then ya gotta pay for the crap that comes with it. Oil pans, axles, balljoints all pay the price so you can get the stance you want. With bags you can adjust the height as required to road conditions.

[swift801]

bags are a terrible investment. name somebody you know with bags that doesn't have to repair it all the time. or somebody with air ride and one shock goes out.air ride is great for a car you don't plan on driving daily.


i'm static. and (fingers crossed) haven't cracked the one on mine yet. my key fob doesn't fit under the oil pan on its side and the control arms are even lower.

if you still have factory aluminum pan. yeah your gonna crack that. stop buying used oem. and just buy the aftermarket steely.

are you guys finding STEEL skidplates or the alum? i really don' tthink either is gonna save you from cracking the pan. maybe from scraping it. but not from cracking it.

and why the hell would you run into something you know you can't go over? i get hung up on uneven pavement. if a road is raised in the center and i cross it, my control arms will hang up on the ground.might as well forget about a speed bump.

the spacers do work. search mk4 motor mount spacers. its the same application as jetta or golf. theres a spacer for the left and right side. if you are dropped atleast 3 inches. it be nice to take 1 inch of that stress off of the suspension and axles. you never hear anybody on shocks/dropsprings complaining about axles. and most of those are 2 inch drops. seems to me that the spacers work to put it back in somewhat the right geometry.

[swift801]

Originally Posted by 2004NBTURBOS

If your gonna be runnin static then ya gotta pay for the crap that comes with it

thats exactly what it comes down to. if you don't wrench on your own car. don't go dropping it unless you got the patience and money. and don't get pissed when you have to cut out your sway bar and notch your frame,listen to your tires rub,swerve every mark in the road and scrape your door on every sidewalk, etc etc etc.....

go buy a 4x4 and stop dodging **** if you don't want to!

[Chris333]

Well I got under it tonight and there is a crack 1/4" above the drain plug. JB welded it for now, this is my daily driver. I have a new pan in the mail.

Still lifting the motor 1"