Want a cute classic Beetle horn but they're just not loud enough? Want a nice loud horn but they're just not cute???
HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT TOO with this nifty How-To!
In this how to, I explain and show you how to wire in a toggle switch and run a new wire so that you can switch between the cute horn and the loud one! OMGLOL!!!
Materials you'll need:
- Classic Beetle Horn
- Loud horn of choice (I chose a Stebel Nautilus 139dB air horn)
- ON-ON Toggle switch of choice (I chose a small round one)
- Connectors (outlined below)
- wire (16ga minimum)
- Crimp-couplers
- Zip ties
Tools you'll need:
- T20 Torx screwdriver
- Phillips screw driver
- small flat head screw driver (in case you need to pry something)
- wire strippers/crimpers
- Drill (for drilling the hole in the dash for the switch)
- Socket set
- Jack
- Hernia medication
Start by jacking up the front driver's side of the car in the air. Remove the driver's side front wheel.
Next remove the wheel well liner. It is held in place by many T20 torx screws. NOTE: there is a hidden torx screw up next to the shock tower at the top.
Horn location (the Classic Beetle horn is installed currently):
Next remove the stock horns. Use a pair of jumper wires to temporarily connect your new horns to make sure they work before spending 4 hours on this project.
If they do, then it's time to tear stuff apart! YAY!
Remove the air box under the hood. This will give you access to the grommet in the firewall that you will run the new wire through.
Next, open the driver's door, remove the fuse panel door, fuse panel trim, and using you T20 torx, remove the lower dash panel. You may need to loosen and pull out the center dash section to allow the lower dash panel to come out. There are 6 screws holding it in place. Two on the side by the fuse panel, 3 under the steering column, and one under the center dash section behind a plastic cover (above the cup holders).
Once this is removed, remove the metal panel behind the lower dash piece. Then remove the panel above the pedals. You should have a pretty good view of everything behind there now. What we're after is the relay panel behind everything. Here's what your poor poor interior should look like:
NOTE: If you're not scratching up all that plastic dash paint while removing everything, than I say you're doing it wrong...and I hate you.
Moving on, there are two nuts holding the relay panel in place. Remove them and gently pull the relay panel out. It's in 2 pieces. The lower section is where the horn relay lives. Shown here:
Coming out of the back of the lower relay panel should be a yellow/black wire. That's the horn power wire. That's what you want. Remove the connector that the yellow/black wire is coming out of from the relay panel (remember that small flat head screw driver?). Shown here:
Once that's off, cut the wire about in the middle between the connector and where it enters the wiring harness. Crimp on jumper wires to the two ends of yellow/black wire. Make sure they're long enough since you're likely to experiment with switch placement. I made mine about 2 feet long.
The other 1/2 of the yellow/black wire:
The wire from the relay will connect to the center pin of your toggle switch (feed) and the other 1/2 of the yellow/black to one of the other pins. This will allow power to flow through the original wiring harness when that position on the switch is selected and the horn is pressed.
It's time to run the new cable.
Make sure your new wire is long enough. ~10ft should get the job done with slack to spare. Run the wire behind the pedals and out of the way.
Locate the firewall grommet above the gas pedal:
Gently push that grommet outward into the engine bay and hope and pray to Osama Bin La......nevermind....just hope that you don't loose it.

Mine fell under the car.
Run your new wire through there and retrieve it under the hood. Run it along the firewall and then down the driver's side of the engine bay, keeping it out of the way as best you can.
Take this opportunity to check on the dog...
Pin attach connectors to all three of the wires under the dash so they can be attached to the switch. Attached the wires to the switch.
Now is the nerve racking part. Drilling a hole into your perfectly cracking, painted, crayon smelling, chipping, scratched, cheaply made piece of German plastic that is the lower dash panel (or where ever you choose to mount it). I really don't have suggestions here on how to find the perfect spot, other than pick one that is comfortable to you, but that also has enough room behind it for the rear of the switch that will stick through. I chose the place I did on the lower dash because it had space behind it.
Drill your hole and press your switch into place.
Next, test fit your panel to make sure the switch doesn't hit anything behind it. Now would be the appropriate time to cuss if you messed this up.
Connect your horns under the car temporarily to their respective connections. I used the stock wiring harness for the Classic Beetle horn and the new wire for the Stebel air horn. Remember: the yellow/black is +12V positive. The orange (or brown) wire on the horn's connector is ground. You may use this (I did) or create a new ground. Your choice. It's also your choice if you do not want to cut the connectors for the stock horns off. I cut one off to use for the Stebel (ground) but kept the other in place and use connector pins instead.
Test your new assembly and make sure both horns work when the switch is put in the correct position.
Now, creatively mount your two new horns. I had to bend the stock horn mounting bracket to allow the Stebel's horn mouth to point toward the ground.
Once all connections are made, clean up the wiring and retest to make sure it works (and to finish pissing off the neighbors). Put everything back together and enjoy your new horns!
Here's a video I made of the horns. My camera mic doesn't do the Stebel justice in the vid but it's almost painful.
