Prothane Dogbone mount Inserts [review]

[bugasm99]

This past weekend I decided to keep with my maintanance schedule and replace my dieing dogbone mount. I did not want to go with a solid mount but definately wanted something Stiffer. I picked up the Prothane inserts from Black Forest industries for $18.00. Below is the how-to for the install borrowed from Vasillalov on vwvortex as well as my impressions with the prothane inserts.

How - To

DISCLAIMER:

I assume no responsibility about this DIY. This is designed as a mere guide. You can use this guide at your own risk as I assume no responsibility of property and physical damage.. You can deviate from this DIY as much as you like

With that said, lets get started!

TOOLS AND PARTS NEEDED:

1. Complete 3-piece set of dogbone bushings or a complete mount with bushings.
2. Two jack stands
3. Car jack of your choice.
4. 5/8" socket + 13mm socket
5. Wrench, pliers, drill with various bits
6. A can of WD-40 or some soapy water! (Important)

STEP 1 (Preparations):

1. Park the car on a leveled place.
2. Pull the e-brake ALL the way
3. Jack the car up as high as possible and let it sit on the jack stands
4. Make sure it is all safe and dandy!

STEP 2 (Removal):

Here is the dogbone mount location:



1. Using the wrench and the 5/8" socket, remove the two green bolts from the front first!
2. Using the wrench and the 12 mm socket, remove the back two bolts.

Here is how the dogbone mount looks like when removed:



STEP 3 (Disassembling the mount):

1. Using the 5/8" socket and the wrench unscrew the long bolt that at the end of the mount. You may have to step on the mount to keep it in place.

Here is how the mount looks like disassembled:



STEP 4 (Removing the third bushing):

Comments: This is the longest and the most tedious part of the DIY. The third circular bushing is installed in such a way from the factory that it is absolutely impossible to remove without breaking it. If you don't have the complete 3-piece set, then skip this part. I HAD to replace it and I had no other choice!

Here is how the third circular mount looks like:



You can see that the rubber is not continuous.
Using the drill, drill multiple of holes IN THE RUBBER parts of the mount shown above. Take your time. Don't damage the actual aluminum mount! I spent good 2-3 hours drilling and removing piece by tiny piece the little rubber shavings!

Here is how the mount looks like with the third bushing removed:



STEP 5 (Installing new bushings):

Notes: This section has been revised since the original post. This is the latest and the CORRECT way of doing things!

1. Clean the aluminum mount completely
2. Spray some WD-40 or in my case soapy water in the hole where the circular bushing should go
3. Remove the metal bolt guide from the new bushing:



4. Slide the new bushing in by squeezing it in. Make sure it is going evenly on each end or otherwise you will have trouble!



Here is how the third bushing looks like after it has been installed:



5. Install the metal bolt guide for the third bushing:



6. Install the SMALLER of the two remaining bushings first by observing the "nipples" and the "ridges" on the mount and the bushing. They must meet and interlock.



7. Install the metal part by carefully observing its orientation. Here is the correct way:



8. Install the BIGGEST of the bushings last again by observing its orientation and the "nipples" and "ridges" of the mount and the bushing:







9. Install the metal cap and the long bolt that hold things together.

STEP 6 (Reinstalling the dogbone mount):

1. As soon as you try to install the mount back, you will notice that the engine has shifted its position and now the first two green bolts are out of line! Do not be afraid, this is normal!

2. Using the jack, SLOWLY, start lifting the engine on the front end.
3. The engine will move also known as rock on the top engine mounts. Continue to lift the engine at the front till the middle bolt where the third circular mount is located is actually in line.
4. Install the mount by first installing the back two bolts.
5. Align the mount with the middle bolt and screw it in.
6. Finally, screw in the little metal bracket and the front-most bolt.
7. Make sure all bolts are tight!

STEP 7 (Checking work and finalizing):

1. Make sure all bolts are tight
2. Slowly remove the jack that is supporting the engine on the front
3. While still on stands, start the engine in neutral.
4. If its all good then, clean up, grab some beer and read on...

Initial impressions

- upon first starting the car I could feel vibrations in the seat, steering wheel, and pedals. Nothing crazy but I can definately feel the motor inside of the cabin.
- Before the install I would hear a clunking noise as the motor turned over on start-up. This is completely gone with the new inserts.
- The shifting is smoother and more solid. Before the install It felt as if I shifted to nuetral between all gear shifts. Now shifting is direct from gear to gear.
- the motor feel more solid as I release the clutch, although my clutch is on its way out and I cannot take full advantage of this rear mount.
- There is some shuddering when releasing my clutch, but again i attribute this to my dieing clutch.
- I am very pleased with this upgrade. The old bushing was incredible soft in comparison and I cannot imagine having this the old way.

[Toad]

Yup, this is an necessary upgrade for anyone who wants more engine feel.

I love my solid mount, it sorta makes you feel like your riding on the engine. But it's too extreme for 99.999999909% of people. But not me.

[v-dubed]

most say dont use the round polly bushing... it was fine with low power but wehn i starded puting down some mad power in snaped... so idk... i kept snaping them so i built one like toad's

[r0nd3L]

Originally Posted by Toad

Yup, this is an necessary upgrade for anyone who wants more engine feel.

I love my solid mount, it sorta makes you feel like your riding on the engine. But it's too extreme for 99.999999909% of people. But not me.

Wow, that does look extreme, lol. But man I wish I could try it out!!! Wanna make me one

[bugasm99]

I personally do not have the round polly mount but I wanted include that in the how-to for those who may purchase the full kit. My round bushings was still in good condition so I did not order the round bushing.

[Toad]

Originally Posted by r0nd3L

Wow, that does look extreme, lol. But man I wish I could try it out!!! Wanna make me one

I didn't make it, the nuts at Yarrowsport did. THey dont have anyhting on thier website, so send em an email or phone call if your really interested.

Or if you just wanna feel it, maybe someday both of us will both be at hte same Ohio g2g.

[Too Cold NB1.8T]

The poly inserts definitely make a positive performance difference because they don't give like the stock rubber bushings, however the weak link here is the actual cast aluminum portion of the stock Dog Bone mount, they are notorius for snapping.

By replacing the rubber bushings with poly inserts, you reduce the give at the bushing which effectively increase the pressure on the cast aluminum section of the Dog Bone, this will also increase it's chance of snapping.

The best solution is a VF Engineering billet replacement Dog Bone, they are very unlikely to break and the performance improvement over even the poly modified stock mount is amazing.

[Red Rider]

Bugasm99--good write up and helpful pics

I installed the vf engineering dogbone and really like it--as too cold said--makes a big difference.

I got mine on without having to jack up engine. Just lucky things lined up.