Master or Slave???

[manicmekanic]

2000 beetle 1.9L TDI: recently replaced clutch master & slave cyl.'s (both plastic). Trans shifted fine for 10K miles. Now shifting becoming progressively worse. No clutch slippage. How can you tell if it's the master or the slave casuing problem?

[DZLBUG]

Slave/master cylinders on these cars are not common failure points, so my guess is that you have something else going on considering that you replaced them and you still have the problem.

How is the gear oil? Full? Ever been replaced? Have you tried bleeding the clutch again? How did you do it the first time? A power bleeder really works best. How about the shift linkage, ever tried adjusting that? Verified that there aren't any broken/worn parts in the linkages?

If not any of those things, you may be looking at dropping the transmission out. Does it shift any easier if you push in the clutch, and wait a bit before shifting? The clutch may be slow to release, possibly binding on the input shaft. Clutch fork could be bent, pressure plate fingers broken/bent, DMF starting to come apart.

[Smileybug]

When you say shifting is becoming worse, what exactly is going on?

[manicmekanic]

Forgot to mention: I also replaced clutch disc & P/P at the same time as slave & master. Haven't checked gear box (ever). However, symptoms seem curiously identical to problems that led to replacement of all above (except clutch not slipping this time). gears grinding, stiffness in shifter. It seems to shift slightly better if I hesitate after depressing pedal, but still not good enough. I bled the first one the old fashioned way because I couldn't get decdent advice (from this site) on the power bleeder. It was a sudden change from shifting fine to grinding. Shifting fine one day, then difficulty the next. I will check linkage, but all gears seem to be affected equally. Pedal travel feels ok, no sticking, no beeping from the fluid level sensor.

[DZLBUG]

Did you lube the input shaft of the transmission? The fact that it shifts better if you pause indicates to me that either the clutch is not releasing fully or possibly the syncros are wearing out. I strongly advise checking/changing the gear oil. Very simple to do, takes slightly less than 2 liters. VW spec lube (G60 or G70) is best. Check your motor/trans mounts too, particularly the dogbone mount. If the engine/trans are moving around it is going to screw up your shifts.

Lastly, what is your normal driving style like? Are you smooth and easy on the shifts or do you just jam it into gear quick and/or downshift without rev-matching?

[manicmekanic]

Don't know what happened to my post yesterday. I did not lube input shaft. I bought Mobile synth. 75w90. How do you drain, by removing 2 bolts & VW logo plate? is there an allen plug that I'm overlooking? Car tries to move with trans. in gear & clutch on floor.

[DZLBUG]

It definitely sounds like the clutch is dragging then. Try bleeding it again, preferably with a power bleeder. But I fear the lack of lube on the input shaft is causing your problems. The clutch disk needs to be able to slide freely to release.

As for changing the fluid. Take that Mobil 1 back. It is GL5 spec which is NOT what you want, it messes up the syncros. GL4 only, preferably synthetic.

There is a 17mm allen plug back underneath the differential. The diff and trans share fluid and this is the low point of the case. The fill plug is on the front side of the transmission.