New guy with some transmission issues on beetle check the pics

[zr1salvage]

Ok so this is my First VW transmission removal, but not my first rodeo.

we all knew something was wrong with the clutch but my initial trouble shooting led me to believe that the throw out bearing was comprimised.

I have now done a few searches and found that the forks are a week link but please use the picks for future use!


The problem is that the clutch is messed up hard to shift, when depresing clutch it would bind and then pop through the resistance and go to floor.

I get the car and yes the pedel is binding so I figure its something with the throwout bearing.

The car sat for a week and then I pull it into the garage, when I pushed on the clutch I could feel vibrations and there was a hell of a loud noise, so I figured the pressure plate could be broken and the fork is riding one the pressure plate.

Well I got it apart and I was almost correct.

check out the photos sorry phone pics not very good.

Im going on a limb and say that bottom stud doesn't look like it should be that worn because the fork has been rubbing it for some time it is rubbed out in the perfect shape of the fork.
My main question is this, is this trasmission case done or is that stud workable I think that there is enough of that stud but can any of you visually look at the pics and tell me that nothing is missing from that area.

[DZLBUG]

Wow...thats a new one. Never seen that before. If you can get that stud out and a new one in securely, I think it will be fine. Worst case scenario, you could find a good bellhousing off a junkyard parts trans (any 02J trans will work) then you could swap it out. Make sure you grease the new pivot well with some heavy moly grease.

Looks like your rear main seal is leaking too? Or is the DMF puking grease? Either way I would ditch the DMF now and put a SMF clutch kit in. Might not hurt to put in a new rear main seal either.

The new seals are teflon and are on a metal carrier. They also have a plastic insert that aids installation and keeps the seal from rolling or getting nicked. Just push it over the end of the crank and the plastic will pop out. It goes on dry, no grease, and you have to leave it sit undisturbed (no moving the crank) for 6 hours. Be sure to put a thin bead of sealant on the mating surface with the oil pan, and tighten the bolts to the block first, and the two oil pan bolts last.

Make sure you torque everything to spec per Bentley manual. Haynes are junk. Also make sure you get new mount stretch bolts. The big 18mm vertical bolts that join the body mount and transmission mount should be tightened to 74 ft-lbs. The old spec (which is in the Bentley manual) is 60 ft-lbs + 90 degrees IIRC. This is too tight and it will often strip the threads in the aluminum mount.

[zr1salvage]

Do you happen to have part numbers?

for that stud?

and the rear main seal?


This car has a bad leak from the valve cover so im going to replace that, but I still havent gotten the cluth off to see if the rear main is leaking.

If that stud is replacable Ill replace it but it looks like it is part of the casting and not removable.

And does anyone have a how to on the cracking of the transmission if I wanted to swap out the bellhousing half? any special tools need to do it or it is pretty straight forward unbolt and it comes apart? I doubt its that easy.

[DZLBUG]

Home Page > Search > Clutch Fork Pivot > ES#251305 Clutch Pivot Pin - 02A141777B
Home Page > Search > Clutch Fork Pivot > ES#272284 Clutch Release Lever - 02J141719C

You didn't mention which engine you have, so I can't look up the seal. You should be able to find it on that site though.

As far as swapping the bellhousing, I think its pretty straightforward. IIRC the Bentley manual on DVD includes transmission disassembly.

[zr1salvage]

yeah its a 2.0

[zr1salvage]

well I got that clutch pivot pin off, it was so worn out I could barely tell it could come off but it did.

Now its just waiting on parts.

Ok now back to the corvette's paint!