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Quote:
If anyone is still confused on how this works I will take a picture of the pan I have on the 01M i have sitting here. |
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The small red cap is where a dipstick tube and dipstick would have been, but they changed the design of the transmission, pictures of the inside of the stickless pan in a second...
Last edited by Loosenutbehindthewheel; 10-01-2010 at 05:10 PM.. |
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Imagine this pan on a car.
![]() The red arrow is where the plug is, now once you remove it, fluid might come out, if it doesn't your low. Now in this picture you can plainly see the way they designed it, see how the tube extends higher then the bottom, now if you fill the trans using this, any excess will come back out. Thereby giving you the perfect fluid level. ![]() So to answer everyone's question, the new Beetle has NO trans dipstick, one of the reason's I am switching to a 94 01M trans, Im doing the work today, so by next week maybe I will be able to drive this thing. |
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The info above is flat out wrong. There is a filler plug on the front of the transmission. Take the cap off and fill from there, you'll need a funnel and small hose to fill it.
As long as its not leaking, it should not need fluid. However, it would be a good idea to change the fluid and filter. You need to drain the fluid by removing the plug on the bottom, followed by the red plastic "straw." Be careful with this as it is plastic. Then once that has drained, drop the pan. The filter will likely come off with it, and there will be more fluid in the pan and dripping down from the transmission - so don't have your face underneath it unless you want an ATF facial. Clean out the pan, replace the filter and pan gasket and bolt the pan back up and reinstall the two plugs. Remove the cap from the filler and dump in the new fluid. I can't remember the capacity, but its okay to put in slightly more than you need. Making sure that the car is perfectly level, start the engine and run it through the different gear positions. Let the engine continue to run so that the transmission fluid will get up to temperature. Verify that it has reached the correct temp with VCDS or other scan tool that can read the transmission temperature. I can't recall the exact temp, but 80C rings a bell. Once it has reached temperature, and with the engine STILL RUNNING, remove the metal plug from the transmission pan. If fluid runs out, wait until it stops and then put the plug back in. If fluid does not run out, dump in more transmission fluid until it does. Make sure you use the correct VW spec fluid. Regular or "universal" ATF's (even Amsoil) will kill the transmission.
__________________
2000 New Beetle GLS TDI 5 speed swap w/SBC Stg 3 clutch and Dieselgeek short shifter, RC3, PP520's, Eurojet SMIC, 3 bar map, Dieselgeek skidplate, 2" lift w/VR6 springs, 2.5" turbo-back straight pipe "weedburner" side exhaust, air horn, ABD Cup front bumper, HID retrofit, LED tails, Bernt Pod w/McNally gauges. WISH LIST: VNT 17/22 hybrid turbo, RC5 and other silly stuff. |
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They asked for a way to check it, not change it.
Here is a article on fluid and filter change that a member from here did. "How-To" Change Auto Transmission Fluid Pay special attention to post 17, note that the "plug" you take out of the bottom of the pan is for correct fluid leveling, however the factory uses it as a filling tube, and it's really hard to fill it by the front distick delete hole, funnels dont fit there to well for the advarage guy. |
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The factory does not use the bottom opening as a filler, and its stupid to try and do that. The one up front is not that hard to get to, all you need is a funnel and some tubing that fits snugly over the opening. Fact is the info you provided is flat out wrong. You said nothing about having the engine running or fluid up to temperature. |
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I did not say anything about the temp or having it running, do you think they got time to start the car's on the assembly line, get them up to temp, and then use a funnel and a hose to fill the trans? If my information is incorrect, explain how they drive the cars out of the assembly floor, and why they would start a car in an enclosed building for enough time for the car to heat up, over "X" amount of car's that roll out everyday? |
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No we don't have a problem here, you just don't know what you're talking about.
What you fail to realize is that there is a difference between an initial "dry fill" and filling the transmission back up after changing it...or topping it off as you suggest, which shouldn't be done unless you have a leak. When the factory puts in fluid, the transmission is completely dry. There is an exact quantity of fluid to be filled then. The transmissions get filled with fluid when they are assembled, via the fill tube on the front of the trans. When the transmission gets bolted to the engine at the assembly plant it is all ready to go. When you buy a new transmission from VW, its already filled up and ready to go. When you change the fluid, or "top it off" like you were suggesting...there is still fluid in the guts of the transmission. The torque converter is also half-full. That is an unknown quantity that is variable. The height of that plug is calibrated to the amount that is designed to be in the pan with the engine running and the fluid at operating temperature. Fluid expands as it heats up, and when the engine is running, the pump fills the torque converter with fluid. If you check the fluid level with the fluid cold but the engine running, you will be overfilled. If you check the fluid level with the engine off, whether the fluid is cold or not, the trans will be under-filled by almost a liter. Even on transmissions with dipsticks, (you should be familiar with those...since you are acting like one ) you are supposed to check the level with the engine idling, in park and at operating temperature.Any questions? |
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