Slave Cylinder DIY

[D2Beetle]

This DIY is for replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder; which I choose to do after having this problem.

The Master Cylinder DIY Thread is here ...

TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY covers model years 98 thru 05, excluding the Turbo S.

DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together or use a cutting torch to get bad part out and are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong ... AGREED?

These instructions were developed using the following NB...

1) 2000 1.8T liter, 5 speed

As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author (D2Beetle) when you tell all of your BUG buddies!!

TIME NEEDED: 2 Hours. Which includes the bleeding.

ITEMS NEEDED: A eBahn Bentley DVD or Haynes manual.

TOOLS NEEDED: Short and Deep Well Metric Sockets with three six inch extensions and two swivels.

PROJECT COST (German Auto Parts dot Com):
Clutch Slave Cylinder $ 64.85
ATE SL6 Bake Fluid (1 Liter) $ 13.50
MOS2 Grease/Lube $ 8.45

Shipping $ 13.38
Order Total: $ 100.18

Dealer Cost: $ 0.00

SPECIAL TOOLS: None.

WARNINGS: Do Not depress the clutch at any time until you have completed this DIY and are ready to bleed the system.

CAUTIONS: You will need a cap for the Slave Cylinder fluid line or all of your brake fluid will drain out.

So let’s begin...

[D2Beetle]

Step One: Remove the engine cover plate [SC DIY 001]. I have noticed that on some cover plates the front two (#1 & #2) bolts are not there, only the rear one (#3). Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the front bolt covers. There is a flat spot on either side to pry from. Remove the bolts from the cover mounts [SC DIY 002]. Bolt (#3) only needs to be loosened and not removed. Lift up on the front to clear the oil cap and pull forward.

Pic [SC DIY 003] shows you where the Clutch Slave Cylinder is hiding down below.

Step Two: Remove the top part of the air box [SC DIY 004]. Disconnect the MAF (#1) and disconnect the air intake hose (#2). Now some models may not a Secondary Air Pump (SAP) so you may or may not have disconnect SAP Intake tube (#3). Loosen screws (#1 & #2) in pic [SC DIY 005]; these screws are not meant to be removed only loosened enough to get the top cover off; afterwards from the backside of the air box pull up and toward the front of the car to removed the air box cover. It is not necessary to remove the air filter.

Step Three: Remove the lower part of the air box. Remove bolt (#3) in pic [SC DIY 005] and bolt (#1) in pic [SC DIY 006]. To remove the air box lift up on the MAF/Intake side of the air box and pull toward the passenger side. With the air box removed you can see the slave cylinder [SC DIY 007].

Pic [SC DIY 008] shows you another reason why I had to replace it; the bleed spout (which is plastic) has broken off.

Step Four: Disconnect the shift levers [SC DIY 009].

TECHNICAL NOTE: Be sure and mark one of the shift cables and lever so you put the correct cable back on the correct lever. I use red duct tape.

Using a thin/narrow wrench, push it down gently between the shift cable connector and the shift lever at the same time prying away from the engine. It should pop off the "swivel ball". To get the other one [SC DIY 010] is a bit more challenging; I used the AEG Tensioner Tool as a pry bar, because there is and additional motor mount bar (green rectangle) in the way and I could not get my wrench in place. The motor mount bar proved to be a good fulcrum. I pushed down on the opposite end and the cable popped off the swivel ball.

Step Five: Remove the shift cable support bracket [SC DIY 011]. There are three bolts to remove and you will need a swivel and a 12" extension.

Step Six: Disconnect the hydraulic tube [SC DIY 011A].

TECHNICAL NOTE: You will need cap the hydraulic line after you disconnect it or your brake fluid will drain out.

You will need some rags/paper towels to catch the fluid that come out of the tube and slave cylinder when disconnect the tube. Using needle nose pliers pull the retaining clip [SC DIY 011B] from the slave cylinder. Disconnect the hydraulic hose and cap it off [SC DIY 011C]; which shows you what I did to cap the hydraulic line.

Step Seven: Remove the Slave Cylinder [SC DIY 012]. Remove bolts (#1 & #2)

TECHNICAL NOTE: The slave cylinder is spring loaded so be careful when removing the bolts.

You are done!!!!

Although assembly is the reverse of removal the slave cylinder must be bleed before it will work properly; see the next post.

[D2Beetle]

Here is the pic of the new Clutch Slave Cylinder.

[D2Beetle]

Step Eight: Reassemble ...

Step Nine: Bleed Clutch Slave Cylinder [SC DIY 014]. Remove the bleed valve cap [SC DIY 015] and attach a (I used vacuum hose) rubber hose (16" or 40 cm) so that it drains under the car [SC DIY 016 & 017]. Put a plastic container under the hose to catch the bled brake fluid [SC DIY 016]. I used a water bottle.

TECHNICAL NOTE: If at any time during this procedure the clutch peddle goes to the floor and stays there, this may be an indication that your Clutch Master Cylinder may be bad. If during this process you cannot get the recommended amount of fluid to bleed, which is what happened to me; your Clutch Master Cylinder is bad.

Bleeding the slave cylinder requires two people and is a two step process. The first bleed is to drain 100 cm or 3.4 oz. The second bleed is to drain 50 cm or 1.7 oz. The water bottle in pic [SC DIY 018] shows you the amount of fluid you need. The Black Line is the 100 cm or 3.4 oz mark and the Blue Line is the 50 cm or 1.7 oz mark.

Bleed Procedure...

1) Pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times. (I did 15) This will pressurize the slave cylinder.
2) Open the bleed valve to release the pressure.
3) Close the bleed valve before all of the pressure is released.

Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 until you reach the first mark. Empty the bottle or get another one and repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 until you reach the second mark.

Be sure and check the brake fluid reservoir afterwards to make sure that you are within the Min/Max marks.

That is it you are done!!!

The amount of fluid the plastic bottle in pic [SC DIY 018] is all I that I could get to bleed after four bleeding attempts; all it did was make spitting sounds. And the clutch pedal did go to the floor and stay their, twice and I used my hand to pull it back up. When it did the third time I confirmed what I was trying to ignore.