O2J Transmission DIY

[D2Beetle]

This DIY is for Removing an O2J Transmission; which I choose to do after having this problem.

The Clutch Master Cylinder DIY Thread is here ...
The Clutch Slave Cylinder DIY Thread is here ...

TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY covers model years 98 thru 05, excluding the Turbo S.

DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together or use a cutting torch to get the bad part out and are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong ... AGREED?

These instructions were developed using the following NB...

1) 2000 APH 1.8T liter, 5 speed, O2J-EBQ* 26010 Transmission

EBQ is the Transmission Sub-Type and it identifies the Speedometer and Gear Ratios, Clutch Specifications and Fluid Capacities.
26010 is the date of manufacture, the format is DDMMY; i.e. Jan 26, 2000.

As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author (D2Beetle) when you tell all of your BUG buddies!!

TIME NEEDED: 12 Hours.

ITEMS NEEDED: A eBahn Bentley DVD or Haynes manual.

PROJECT COST: None; unless you break something.

SPECIAL TOOLS: Here is the Engine Support Tool that I am using. Here is the Transmission Jack that I am using.

WARNINGS: You will be working under your NB for 3/4 of this DIY, so take the necessary safety precautions raising your NB; you will need room to work with the transmission jack.

CAUTIONS: You cannot take the transmission out or put it back in by yourself, you will need two helpers. Removing/Re-installation of the nuts, bolts, brackets, hoses and other parts is not difficult. Getting the transmission in and out is where most of your time is vested. You must ensure that nothing is bent, broke or damaged during removal and installation or you will be buying new parts.

So let’s begin...

[D2Beetle]

You need to perform Steps One thru Three in the Salve Cylinder DIY (Click for pics) ... below are the written instructions for Steps 1,2 and 3.

Step One: Remove the engine cover plate [SC DIY 001]. I have noticed that on some cover plates the front two (#1 & #2) bolts are not there, only the rear one (#3). Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the front bolt covers. There is a flat spot on either side to pry from. Remove the bolts from the cover mounts [SC DIY 002]. Bolt (#3) only needs to be loosened and not removed. Lift up on the front to clear the oil cap and pull forward.

Step Two: Remove the top part of the air box [SC DIY 004]. Disconnect the MAF (#1) and disconnect the air intake hose (#2). Now some models may not a Secondary Air Pump (SAP) so you may or may not have to disconnect SAP Intake tube (#3). Loosen screws (#1 & #2) in pic [SC DIY 005]; these screws are not meant to be removed only loosened enough to get the top cover off; afterwards from the backside of the air box pull up and toward the front of the car to removed the air box cover. It is not necessary to remove the air filter.

Step Three: Remove the lower part of the air box. Remove bolt (#3) in pic [SC DIY 005] and bolt (#1) in pic [SC DIY 006]. To remove the air box lift up on the MAF/Intake side of the air box and pull toward the passenger side.

With the air box removed, everything that you can see [O2J DIY 001] is going to be removed or disconnected and moved out of the way.

Step Four: Remove the Battery (if you have not done so already) and Battery Tray. Everyone has probably needed a new battery, so this step should be a piece of cake. The only difference is you must disconnect the power lead from the positive terminal first; [O2J DIY 002] then the positive terminal, then the negative terminal.

Next remove the two bolts securing the wire harness tray [O2J DIY 003]. The with a slight twisting motion [O2J DIY 004] separate the lower wire harness tray from the battery top cover. Be careful or you will break the mounting clips (yellow rectangles). Set the bottom tray aside and move the top cover over to the headlight.

Next remove the battery securing bracket bolt [O2J DIY 005] and take out the battery.

Next remove the power steering fluid reservoir mounting bolt [O2J DIY 006]. DO NOT DISCONNECT any power steering hoses. Secure the power steering reservoir to the left out of the way.

Next remove the five battery tray mounting bolts [O2J DIY 007].

Step Five: Disconnect the Shifter Cables and Bracket [O2J DIY 008].

Step Six: Disconnect the Speed Sensor [O2J DIY 009].

Step Seven: Remove the Shifter Balance Weight (01) and disconnect the Reverse Light Switch (02) [O2J DIY 010]. You need a brace to keep the balance weight from moving to loosen the mounting bolt. I used a 12" Adjustable wrench wedged (green square) up against some metal cap (you can barely see it) that is bolted to the transmission; hold the adjustable wrench as you loosen the mounting bolt.

Step Eight: Remove the Clutch Slave Cylinder [O2J DIY 011]. DO NOT Disconnect the Brake Fluid Line.

Step Nine: Disconnect the Starter Connector (02) and the Ground Connection (01) [O2J DIY 012].

Step Ten: Remove the Starter Cable Retainer (01 and 02)[O2J DIY 013]. This one was confusing as I broke the locking tab (green arrow) on mine. Yes you can bend the Retainer Top like in the picture; just be careful when pushing the locking tab to release the Cable Retainer. Push the locking tab in the direction of the green arrow and slide the Cable Retainer on its bracket.

Technical Note: Unable to determine what Connector (03) is in pic [O2J DIY 013].

Step Eleven: Remove the Starter Cable Retainer Mounting Bracket (01) and the top Starter Bolt (02) [O2J DIY 014]. The mounting bracket bolt (green) is a separate bolt and must be removed first, then the starter bolt (yellow).

[D2Beetle]

Step Twelve: Remove the Power Steering Tube mounting bolts (01 and 02) [O2J DIY 015]. DO NOT Disconnect any power steering hoses or tubes.

Step Thirteen: Remove the Starter [O2J DIY 016]. Disconnect the Power Connector and Remove bolts 01 and 02. Be careful or the Starter will drop out.

Step Fourteen: Install the Engine Support Bridge [O2J DIY 017 thru 020].

Technical Note: You must have an over engine support or you cannot get the transmission out. Supporting it from underneath is NOT RECOMMENDED.

I had to improvise and Pics [O2J DIY 017 and 019] show you the extension that I had to use because I could not line up the support rod to the engine support bracket on the right (passenger) side. The left (driver) side support rod lined up [O2J DIY 018] and worked perfectly. The left rod is used to lower and raise [O2J DIY 020] the engine as needed to get the transmission out.

Step Fifthteen: Disconnect the Drivers Side Drive Shaft [O2J DIY 021 thru 024]. I discovered that I did not need to get a "Triple Square" or "Twelve Point" tool, because I already had one. The "Special Tool" required to remove the original cylinder head bolts on a 1998 AEG is the same "Special Tool" for the drive shaft bolts. There are six bolts [O2J DIY 023] to remove and you must stop the tire from rotating to loosen them; I did this by putting a chair back brace under the tire [O2J DIY 022]. When the tire rotated it pulled the brace under the tire and stopped the rotation.

Technical Note: Pic [O2J DIY 024] is very important; after you have remove all the bolts you must pull the drive shaft up until it will not go any further. The turn the brass side of the drive shaft face up and strap it in place. If you do not do this right it will prevent you from getting the transmission out. I do not have a pic of the proper position, because when I tried to get the transmission out I did not know that the space tolerance was this tight.

Step Sixteen: Disconnect the Passenger Side Drive Shaft [O2J DIY 026 thru 027]. The same methods used for the Drivers Side Shaft is used for the Passenger Side Shaft and there are no clearance issues to be concerned with; however there is a Cover Plate just above the transmission to shaft connection. It is hidden from view and I could not get an angle for a pic, so you will have to feel for it. This Cover Plate must be removed to get the transmission out.

[ljackson]

I started removing my trans on 2000 NB 1.8t today. Going to replace the clutch with this: Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Drivetrain > Clutch > ES#250303 Stage 1 Clutch Kit - With Lightweight Steel Flywheel (20.5lbs) - 06A198002 You need a triple square 10mm to unbolt the axles. I opened the box when the clutch kit arrived. I found the flywheel bolts are 12mm triple square. I found a set at Oreilly's. | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The Bentley manual is pretty good on this.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ljackson

I started removing my trans on 2000 NB 1.8t today. Going to replace the clutch with this: Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Drivetrain > Clutch > ES#250303 Stage 1 Clutch Kit - With Lightweight Steel Flywheel (20.5lbs) - 06A198002 You need a triple square 10mm to unbolt the axles. I opened the box when the clutch kit arrived. I found the flywheel bolts are 12mm triple square. I found a set at Oreilly's. | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The Bentley manual is pretty good on this.

Thanks for the info. I start taking mine apart tomorrow. Not sure what the problem is, but I will put a new clutch in it anyway; already put a new Master/Slave Cylinder in it, why not a new clutch too!

I have the eBahn DVD; excellent resource for any DIY'er.

I found that the 1998 cylinder head bolt tool is the same one for the drive shafts, so I did not have to buy anymore tools.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by ljackson

I started removing my trans on 2000 NB 1.8t today. Going to replace the clutch with this: Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Drivetrain > Clutch > ES#250303 Stage 1 Clutch Kit - With Lightweight Steel Flywheel (20.5lbs) - 06A198002 You need a triple square 10mm to unbolt the axles. I opened the box when the clutch kit arrived. I found the flywheel bolts are 12mm triple square. I found a set at Oreilly's. | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The Bentley manual is pretty good on this.

The triple square I got worked OK but they are really too long. I would get some of these Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more I used 3 of the 4 sizes from the Oreilly set. I put the trans to engine bolts back in and forgot to reinstall the left drive axle drive flange that I had removed to make getting the trans out easier. I had to unbolt and move it back. Using the engine hoist to move the trans was alot easier that using the trans jack. It might not be bad if you have the special VW bracket to hold it. I had to rotate the drive end up while a helper let the hoist down. Also after I went for a test drive, I did not have power to the brakes. I guess the vacuum line to the booster got disconnected when I lowered the engine. I had to remove the air box again the get to it. Harbor Freight sells an engine support. They did not have any. I used a piece of 1 1/4 square tubing. It is 44 1/2" long. I leveled a 2 x 4 block and marked and cut for the curve of the fender. I drilled a 9/16 hole and used 1/2" all thread about 12" long to connect the chain to. Also remember to remove the small inspection plate located above the left drive flange. I hope this info helps.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ljackson

The triple square I got worked OK but they are really too long. I would get some of these Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more I used 3 of the 4 sizes from the Oreilly set. I put the trans to engine bolts back in and forgot to reinstall the left drive axle drive flange that I had removed to make getting the trans out easier. I had to unbolt and move it back. Using the engine hoist to move the trans was alot easier that using the trans jack. It might not be bad if you have the special VW bracket to hold it. I had to rotate the drive end up while a helper let the hoist down. Also after I went for a test drive, I did not have power to the brakes. I guess the vacuum line to the booster got disconnected when I lowered the engine. I had to remove the air box again the get to it. Harbor Freight sells an engine support. They did not have any. I used a piece of 1 1/4 square tubing. It is 44 1/2" long. I leveled a 2 x 4 block and marked and cut for the curve of the fender. I drilled a 9/16 hole and used 1/2" all thread about 12" long to connect the chain to. Also remember to remove the small inspection plate located above the left drive flange. I hope this info helps.

Thanks for the heads up! I went looking for the Triple square bits today and I did not find any; however I did not go to Sears.

I found this Engine support tool in a VW Vortex Thread and someone sent me a message who had used it so I ordered it; here is the Northern Tool link. There is a Northern Tool near me and I am waiting for them to call and let me know it is ready for pickup.

[Krash]

I know my local advance auto parts has triple square sockets, just don't remember the sizes.
If you have a store near you may want to check there.

Krash

[D2Beetle]

Received my Engine Support and Transmission Jack today; so the work resumes.

[IndyTom]

Very nice! I will follow this link with intend to some day replace my own clutch in my 2000 1.8 Beetle. Thanks for doing this DYI.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Very nice! I will follow this link with intend to some day replace my own clutch in my 2000 1.8 Beetle. Thanks for doing this DYI.

Thanks and I will have all the pics posted by the end of second week in November. I will be taking a Thanksgiving break and then it is on to the Clutch DIY.

[D2Beetle]

Place your Transmission Jack under your Transmission.

Step Seventeen: Remove the Pendulum Support; aka "Dog Bone" Engine Mount [O2J DIY 028].

Step Eighteen: Remove the Drivers Side Motor Mount [O2J DIY 029 thru 031]. Here is where your ESB comes in handy; in pic [O2J DIY 030] there are three bolts to remove and the only way to get to them is to lower the drivers side motor/transmission. All I had to do was turn the driver side ESB handle counter clockwise until I could get access to these bolts.

Technical Note: Pic [O2J DIY 031] is a reminder to check the drivers side shaft and make sure that it is properly strapped out of the way.

Step Nineteen: Remove First Transmission Bolt [O2J DIY 032].

Technical Note: Yellow Number 2 Arrow is a reminder to make sure that the Passenger Side Fly Wheel Cover Plate has been removed.

Step Twenty: Remove Second Transmission Bolt [O2J DIY 033].

Step Twenty One: Remove the Lower Three Transmission Bolts [O2J DIY 034].

You are now ready to remove the Transmission from your NB! You will need two helpers to do this last step; attempting to do it WITHOUT HELP IS NOT RECOMMENDED!

Pic [O2J DIY 035] has the pictorial version of these instructions. Pull the Transmission away from the engine gently. You only need to pull it off the engine dowels. After it is off the dowels lower the engine using the ESB, rotate the Transmission and pull it down and out. Sounds easy does it not?

Step Twenty Two: (Optional Removal Step) Pic [O2J DIY 037] is optional; take a look at pic [O2J DIY 027] and just to the lower left of bolt 3 of 6 you will see one of the transmission mount bolts. This mount point is a problem for getting the drive axle flange over and around it. Getting past the flywheel is the same problem. So you can remove the axle flange which solves that problem; remove the 6mm allen head bolt and pull the axle flange out.

Technical Note: If you choose to remove the axle flange, you will need to drain the gear oil first. Also, the internal workings of the transmission gear box is now exposed to the elements. Refill the gear oil after you get the transmission back in and the axle flange is reinstalled.

[D2Beetle]

Here are some close up pics of the Transmission. Now all I have to do is clean it up and make it look new before I go to put back in. I will be stating the Clutch DIY after Thanksgiving.

[D2Beetle]

OK, so I cleaned the transmission and check the Clutch Release Lever and Throwout Bearing. Aside from the fine rusty powder on/in the throwout bearing, no problems were noticed.

I did have one self-inflected problem. I grabbed the transmission to move it and some how I snapped off the Speed Sensor connector ... nothing appeared to be broken; it consisted of a washer, a magnetic wheel spindle and the wire harness connector. so I snapped it all back together and lets hope it still works!

Technical Note: The washer goes in the wire harness connector between it and the spindle top.

I will be ordering the Clutch Kit and Special Tools sometime this week and I will update the Clutch DIY Thread with that information.

Here are those pictures ...

[D2Beetle]

Here are the External Clean Pictures and the Transmission weight ...

[IndyTom]

WOW, Very nice job! Great pics so even a Caveman like myself can do it. Well done!!

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

WOW, Very nice job! Great pics so even a Caveman like myself can do it. Well done!!

Thanks!

[esse10]

I am Totally IMPRESSED! D2BEETLE you are the Man! You are the Man. Great job on this DIY and thanks for sharing with us fellow newbeetle.org members who are not mechanically inclined.
My beetle is not due for a transmission job for another year, but am sure this diy will come in real handy.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by esse10

I am Totally IMPRESSED! D2BEETLE you are the Man! You are the Man. Great job on this DIY and thanks for sharing with us fellow newbeetle.org members who are not mechanically inclined.
My beetle is not due for a transmission job for another year, but am sure this diy will come in real handy.

Thanks!

[D2Beetle]

Technical Update: An optional step has been added; pic [O2J DIY 037]