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Old 02-16-2012, 05:36 PM
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Question Transmission Slipping-2003 VW Beetle Convertible

I have noticed that my car jerks sometimes while shifting gears. Sometimes it revs to 4000 rpm before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. Sometimes it also shudders when the gears downshift from the 3rd to the 2nd gear or from 4th to 3rd gear. I notice this more when the car has been driven for a while as opposed to when it is started cold. It's an automatic and I have had two transmission fluid flush and also replaced the filter once. The mechanic told me that the filter was really dirty. He suggested that I may have to have the transmission rebuilt. Should I try more transmission fluid flushes and filter replacements or go in for the transmission rebuild? The car has about 98K miles on it and drove well before I started noticing the "slip".
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by im_twinkling View Post
I have noticed that my car jerks sometimes while shifting gears. Sometimes it revs to 4000 rpm before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. Sometimes it also shudders when the gears downshift from the 3rd to the 2nd gear or from 4th to 3rd gear. I notice this more when the car has been driven for a while as opposed to when it is started cold. It's an automatic and I have had two transmission fluid flush and also replaced the filter once. The mechanic told me that the filter was really dirty. He suggested that I may have to have the transmission rebuilt. Should I try more transmission fluid flushes and filter replacements or go in for the transmission rebuild? The car has about 98K miles on it and drove well before I started noticing the "slip".
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Ask your mechanic whether he found any LARGE METAL PARTICLES in the pan when he did the fluid change. Also if you can still find the filter he took off from your trans, open the filter and see if you can find a lot of metal particles in the filter. If he found a lot of metal particles in the filter or found large particles in pan, your trans is shot and needs rebuilding. If that's not the case, you probably just have a bad valve body and you can get it rebuilt thus save you a lot of money.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:17 PM
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You are a lucky man. VW extended all their automatic tranmissions warranties to 10 years or 100,000 miles whichever comes first. Your car should still be covered. But don't wait too much longer! Once you go over the 100k threshold even by a mile they will not honor that warranty!

I don't say this very often but go to your VW Dealer and have them fix it for FREE under warranty
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:50 PM
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Default Not so fast...

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Originally Posted by IndyTom View Post
You are a lucky man. VW extended all their automatic tranmissions warranties to 10 years or 100,000 miles whichever comes first. Your car should still be covered. But don't wait too much longer! Once you go over the 100k threshold even by a mile they will not honor that warranty!

I don't say this very often but go to your VW Dealer and have them fix it for FREE under warranty
Not so fast, friend. I'm sorry to report I'm having the exact same problem with my 2003 vert transmission valve body and called VW just an hour ago. They said the warranty was only extended for 7 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first from the delivery date. I received a notice about this warranty extension in November 2010, and as Murphy's Law would have it, my car was just 4 months outside of the 7-year deadline. Shifting wasn't as bad then...

Fast-forward to today, when my transmission is doing everything the original thread poster is talking about and getting worse by the day. I called VW again to see if anything's changed. Nope. They still won't help me (and us) out. I'm filing a complaint with NHTSA and I urge you to do the same.

I'm so sorry to say I'll never buy another VW again. My 2003 vert has been nothing but a money pit for the 4 year's I've had it. I'm also sorry to say my dealer quoted $1850 to fix the valve body, replace the trans fluid and filter. I'm buying a Jeep next.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:30 PM
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I have to say vw just sucks. The 98-02 Honda Accord transmission has extende warranty of 7yr/100kmiles too but a lot of people got theirs covered around 110-120k miles disregard years. I got my '99 at 100k and has a bad cat but vw doesn't wanna cover it....ft


but...but...but...but,....my wife loves beetle very much..what can I say?
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao View Post
Ask your mechanic whether he found any LARGE METAL PARTICLES in the pan when he did the fluid change. Also if you can still find the filter he took off from your trans, open the filter and see if you can find a lot of metal particles in the filter. If he found a lot of metal particles in the filter or found large particles in pan, your trans is shot and needs rebuilding. If that's not the case, you probably just have a bad valve body and you can get it rebuilt thus save you a lot of money.
Thanks for your response. I'll check with the mechanic. What is the difference between rebuilding a valve body and rebuilding the entire transmission?
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao View Post
I have to say vw just sucks. The 98-02 Honda Accord transmission has extende warranty of 7yr/100kmiles too but a lot of people got theirs covered around 110-120k miles disregard years. I got my '99 at 100k and has a bad cat but vw doesn't wanna cover it....ft


but...but...but...but,....my wife loves beetle very much..what can I say?
I had a bad catalytic converter that VW replaced under warranty last year. They have extended the cat warranty for certain engine codes. I would have them check the engine code for your car. Just in case....
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by im_twinkling View Post
I had a bad catalytic converter that VW replaced under warranty last year. They have extended the cat warranty for certain engine codes. I would have them check the engine code for your car. Just in case....

I checked with them. They only have the extended warranty on cats for 10yr/120k miles while my car is a '99 it's been 13 years.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by im_twinkling View Post
Thanks for your response. I'll check with the mechanic. What is the difference between rebuilding a valve body and rebuilding the entire transmission?
Here is a brand new Transmission for 2k

VW 1.8T Automatic Transmission - PartsPlaceInc.com
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by im_twinkling View Post
Thanks for your response. I'll check with the mechanic. What is the difference between rebuilding a valve body and rebuilding the entire transmission?


Rebuilding the entire transmission requires you to take off the transmission from your vehicle, completely disassemble it and inspect every part for wear, tear, and every clearance while replace everything needed. Also valve body needs to be either rebuilt or replaced with a new one during a transmission rebuild. Typically a transmission rebuilding will require a master or banner kit which includes all gaskets and o-rings, all clutch discs and plates, and filter. Also the torque converter will be inspected during rebuilding and replaced with a rebuilt one if needed. So totally it will cost you from $1500-3000 depending on the labor rate and parts needed. Generally a transmission rebuild requires 1-2 days, and a lot of special tools and professions which can't be done by home mechanic.

To rebuild a valve body, you don't have to take the transmission off. Just do what you do for a fluid+filter change. When you take off the filter, you can access the valve body and take it off easily by removing the holding screws. Actually valve body rebuilding is a big topic and you have to choose a RELIABLE man who do it with responsibility and carefully and with proper tools....or you may order a new one from dealer. However to take off and put on valve body is not very difficult and can be done by yourself. Typically rebuilding valve body costs you $400-600 if you take off and put on valve body by yourself.

Rebuilding whole transmission will of course give you a like new transmission but rebuilding valve body you will take the risk that the mechanical parts are bad. Generally speaking if you do rebuild valve body before problem develops then 99% you don't have to rebuild the whole trans while if the problem already exists rebuilding valve body won't help too much...This is why I ask you to make it sure by looking at the pan and filter.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:35 AM
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Default VW transmission question

I have 2003 and the check engine light came on which read P0811. I had the transmission oil and filter changed. Does this mean the tranny is about to go out?

Would it be better to put in a new tranny. Could I check with VW and see if they will extend warranty if it is less than 10 yr or 100000 miles.

I am the 2nd owner of this car. My wife likes it.

Or, should I just sell it and look at another one.

Suggestions--I am a new owner
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:46 PM
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I can't find that code anywhere. Did you get a description of it?
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geniushanbiao View Post
I have to say vw just sucks. The 98-02 Honda Accord transmission has extende warranty of 7yr/100kmiles too but a lot of people got theirs covered around 110-120k miles disregard years. I got my '99 at 100k and has a bad cat but vw doesn't wanna cover it....ft


but...but...but...but,....my wife loves beetle very much..what can I say?
Can you just drop it? Again, we've had problems with our Honda but I certainly don't go around saying "Honda sucks".

Any manufacturer with an extended warranty DOES NOT have to honor it if its outside the period. 1 mile, 1 day, doesn't matter. If its over, they DO NOT have to do anything for you. It sucks, but that's the truth. I've seen things relating to VW, Honda, Ford...really every make that its the same way, not just VW. My cat failed in early 2010 and I had 90k. I asked VW but they wouldn't cover it. I was at 11 years. I didn't expect them to. I then got it replaced at a local muffler shop for less than $200. No big deal.

Oh, and the Honda trans warranty is 10 years/100k. Hubby got the letter a few years ago...under the years but not the mileage (I think he was at 150k or so at the time but having the typical failure symptoms). Would he expect Honda to do anything? Nope.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjoz98 View Post
I have 2003 and the check engine light came on which read P0811. I had the transmission oil and filter changed. Does this mean the tranny is about to go out?

Would it be better to put in a new tranny. Could I check with VW and see if they will extend warranty if it is less than 10 yr or 100000 miles.

I am the 2nd owner of this car. My wife likes it.

Or, should I just sell it and look at another one.

Suggestions--I am a new owner
P0811-Excessive Clutch Slippage

You could get the transmission flushed and fluid/filter changed and see if that would clear the code. Continuing to drive with this problem will just make the issue worse.

Change the fluid and see what happens. You really can't sell it the way it is. It would just make it someone elses problem and they won't like you very much for it.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:15 PM
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To Smileybug: the P0811 trouble code is "automatic transmission, clutch slippage"

I did have the fluid and filter changed and my wife drove it today. Seems to shift well. We will see if the CEL comes back on.

After this little problem, I have become sort of gun-shy. This is a 2003 VW beetle 2.0L auto.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:32 PM
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To Smileybug: OK I drop it now. I just feel Honda dealers are with us while VW dealers are with the manufacturer.

Back to problem: P0811 bears the mechanic that after computer engages a gear the speed sensor signal reflects gear engaged after a period of time which is over the limit. If you notice the slip between gear change then it's really slipping. Generally this slipping can be caused by several possibilities: 1 solenoid not working properly, 2 sticking valve, 3 valve body clogged, 4 accumulator defective, 5 clutch worn out. Also speed sensor can be the cause too. In some rare cases the TCM can be bad. In this case everything is possible. Generally speaking it's like that if the clutches are not worn then you can solve the problem by rebuilding the valve body which costs you $400-600. If the clutches are worn out then it's better to get a new trans(IndyTom has a source of $2000) since rebuiding transmission always cost more than $2000. If you are handy enough then you can rebuild the trans by yourself in this way you can save as much as $1000. To make sure whether clutch is worn you simply look at the magnet in the pan and tear down the filter you changed. If you can find large metal particles or a lot of small metal dust trapped in the filter and attracted by the magnet then the trans needs major rebuilding. If you can only find some black dust, no/very few metal particles then you can consider the clutches are still usable and you may try rebuilding valve body first.

BTW, which trans do you have and how many miles on it?
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjoz98 View Post
To Smileybug: the P0811 trouble code is "automatic transmission, clutch slippage"

I did have the fluid and filter changed and my wife drove it today. Seems to shift well. We will see if the CEL comes back on.

After this little problem, I have become sort of gun-shy. This is a 2003 VW beetle 2.0L auto.
Excellent! Glad it fixed your issue. Sometime fresh hydraulic fluid is all you need.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geniushanbiao View Post
Generally this slipping can be caused by several possibilities:
1 solenoid not working properly,
2 sticking valve,
3 valve body clogged,
4 accumulator defective,
5 clutch worn out.
Also speed sensor can be the cause too.
In some rare cases the TCM can be bad.
What is the Accumulator, my google searches fail to give me useful data on this. Can you supply a link?

My 2001 has been having sporadic shifting problems - somedays it's fine others it just fails, most often it struggles to shift into 4th. Sometimes it won't shift into 4th at all.

I've rebuilt the valve body, things got smoother but shifting still gets confused, especially once the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes.

When I opened the tranny to change the valve body, the oil didn't look (or smell) that bad.

When it starts to eff up, I can manually put the car into 3rd and it works fine, it will shift into 4th but once it starts to act up it seems it doesn't reset itself unless it is left alone overnight. (like it's cooling down but it's not overheating).

Anyway - I'm thinking it's the speed sensor but wanted to research this accumulator.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:29 PM
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Sounds like limp mode to me.
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieClay View Post
What is the Accumulator, my google searches fail to give me useful data on this. Can you supply a link?

My 2001 has been having sporadic shifting problems - somedays it's fine others it just fails, most often it struggles to shift into 4th. Sometimes it won't shift into 4th at all.

I've rebuilt the valve body, things got smoother but shifting still gets confused, especially once the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes.

When I opened the tranny to change the valve body, the oil didn't look (or smell) that bad.

When it starts to eff up, I can manually put the car into 3rd and it works fine, it will shift into 4th but once it starts to act up it seems it doesn't reset itself unless it is left alone overnight. (like it's cooling down but it's not overheating).

Anyway - I'm thinking it's the speed sensor but wanted to research this accumulator.
It's not the speed sensor. It is your valve body and or internal wiring harness. Those are typical symptoms of a worn out valve body. You say you rebuilt the valve body? What exactly did you rebuild? Also I believe the Accumulator is part of the valve body. It is a small piston in the transmission with a spring on one side.
It takes oil into it and slows the application of an element and has a reserve of oil under pressure to slow the release of the element.

It basically provides proper line pressure in order for the transmission to shift gears. If the valve body doesn't do it's job then friction increases since the clutches aren't getting the proper fluid and pressure, the transmission will wear very quickly and eventually fail completely.
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