[psi]

Bad gas tank lid switch and motor

Hi!
I realize the last post was from 2008, but I thought I'd share anyways.
My 2001 VW Beetle has the same problem.
I used to pull on the lid, play with the switch, pop the trunk and gas lid switches, but it just didn't work well at all.
So, I removed the switch, again, pulled a speak wire over to the the motor so I could short the Bu/Re & Re/Ye wires from the switch remotely and observe the motor operation.
I sprayed silicone lubricant on the latch plunger and the the little white shaft from the motor, but to no avail.
I determined the switch was bad because, even though my DMM said it had 2.1 ohms of resistance when closed, it wouldn't make the clicking sound consistently, which shorting the wires directly would - I'm an electrical engineer, so my gut tells me that though 2 ohms is close enough most of the time, it's not the case here, i.e., the contacts are probably failing on the switch.
My conclusion for the bad motor is that while shorting the release signal consistently actuates the motor, the switch simply fails to consistently deliver the proper amount of force needed to release the lid and at times barely pulls.

So, I'm shopping for a switch and motor with Google as I write this and will proceed to take both the switch and motor apart while I wait for my order to come in. I recall the dealer charged me over $200 for my AC/Vent motor so I'm just hoping I don't have to pay dealer prices for either of these components (I bought an after market side view mirror for about $30 vs. about $80 or $100 from the dealer.

I'm interested in knowing if someone actually has the force specs for the lid release latch, i.e., how many newtons is it suppose to deliver vs. what the nominal force is to release the lid?

Thanks,
Art

 

[GGNB2006]

Anyone (2006-2010 models) got the same problem???

My Beetle (2006 model) got the similar problem as well. Here is the problem I have. The switch /latch works well as the cap is open, indeed; it can come out and go back smoothly, which I watch personally after I pry out the cap and leave it open as shown in the attached picture. Anyway, the fuel cap won't pop out without hard external force. I have to pry it out by force manually( I did not use credit card or screw driver since it will hurt the paint somehow). Anyone got the similar/same problem for those newer (2006-2010) models??? How can we fix it at reasonable
cost??? Best DIY fix it.

Here I attach a picture of the fuel cap mechanism of my Mazda, which has a spring to jack the fuel cap out when the latch retreats. This is a smart design, simple and workable.

Anyone (2006-2010 models) got the same problem???

 

[GGNB2006]

Latch works but the cap won't pop out

I double checked the how latch works today and I found the latch can work well. In other words,
the latch can come out and get back in smoothly, which means both motor and cable work. But the
problem is the cap won't pop out automatically. I asked my friend to help me with pressing the
fuel door switch while I used my hand to open the cap. It was much easier to do so with second
hand. Otherwise I have to pry the cap out after I pressed the switch myself. This tells me the
latch works but it moves in and out too quickly for the cap to pop out.

This is what I figured out. Any advice to fix it???

 

[red99]

I think the problem that these cars have is that the cable between the door release solenoid and the latch gets bent over time and won't transmit enough force to pull the latch open. Here is a thread on how to replace the cable. Note the use of a cardboard tube to prevent the cable from kinking:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...ms/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/47608-fuel-door-latch-diy.html

On my car I just pushed the cable end down into the fender. The door stays closed on its own and is easy to pull open manually. I don't think the door is supposed to spring open on its own like you suggest.

 

[GGNB2006]

I think the problem that these cars have is that the cable between the door release solenoid and the latch gets bent over time and won't transmit enough force to pull the latch open. Here is a thread on how to replace the cable. Note the use of a cardboard tube to prevent the cable from kinking:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...ms/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/47608-fuel-door-latch-diy.html

On my car I just pushed the cable end down into the fender. The door stays closed on its own and is easy to pull open manually. I don't think the door is supposed to spring open on its own like you suggest.

The fuel door won't pop out completely as shown in the pictures. But if the mechanism including cable/latch/switch/motor works correctly, the fuel cap/door should open roughly 1/8 inch and then we can open it up manually easily. I asked someone else to help me with pressing the switch on the driver door side while( at the same time) I can easily open the cap manually. Otherwise, I have to pry it up by hard force manually.

 

[red99]

There is supposed to be a spring inside the little housing on the inside of the fuel door that is at the center right edge of your pictures. It is item 5 in this parts list:

VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE [BE] (USA) 2005: BODY: 80990. FUEL FILLER FLAP