99 NB, start and running issues, lots of codes

[AndyBees]

This 99 NB will basically start okay when the engine is cold and the engine will rev-up and drive. But, once it reaches full operating temp, the engine dies. It can be started, but it will only idle.

Here are the codes7 Faults Found:

00282 - Throttle Position Actuator (V60)
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal
P0341 - 35-00 - -
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
16506 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low
P0122 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338)
55-10 - Adaptation Not Successful - Intermittent
17988 - Throttle Actuator (Bank 1): Malfunction
P1580 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Using VCDS, I can erase the codes, but the Camshaft Position Sensor (G40), Implausible Signal code comes back immediately. The other codes will show-up again if the engine stalls or is cut-off and restarted.

Cleaning the MAF did not help.
The Coil checked Okay per the Bentley (nice blue spark).
Fuel pump cycles (I have not checked pressure).
New Spark plugs.
Engine has 161k miles on it.

Would you start by replacing the Camshaft sensor! Or can that thing be checked individually?

According to the Bentley, one item/sensor can begin to malfunction and cause others to throw codes.....where do you start?

..........comments and questions welcome!

[D2Beetle]

Off the top of my head, you might need a new throttle body. Have you cleaned the throttle body and its wiring connectors?

[AndyBees]

No, I have not cleaned the Throttle Body. I hope to dig deeper into this NB's problems tomorrow.

I think it so strange that the Bentley manual for the NB doesn't mention anything about the Crankshaft speed sensor. However, the Bentley manual that's specific to the TDI and gasser engines in general actually mentions the Crankshaft speed sensor with location, etc.

I do realize that if one component begins to fail it can cause multipule codes to be thrown. At that point, it becomes a nightmare to sort out the good from the bad!

[AndyBees]

Okay, today when I started the car, it fired right up! The engine would rev-up very smooth.

I then hooked up VAG COM and checked a few things. As the engine began to getting closer to normal operating temp, the idle became erratic. At that point, it would not take throttle. If I pushed on the accelerator pedal the engine would die out.

So, I removed the Throttle Body, took off the black cover for a look inside.....nothing that I could see appeared to be unusual. I used a little compressed air and then some electrical spray cleaner and more air. I also cleaned all plug connections, etc., with compressed air and electrical cleaner. I also checked other connections for good contact and cleaned them as well.

I put it all back together. The car sat for at least two hours because I had to run some errands. So, when I started the car it did just as before.......same thing!

The DTCs were the same as I posted in the initial Thread starter post above.

One thing interesting, I can delete the codes and the code relating to the Camshaft Sensor always pops back up! No matter how many times I delete that code, it will come right back.

So, is the Camshaft Sensor the issue?

Tests indicated that the two Ox sensors are okay.

Where are the Gurus when you need them?

[D2Beetle]

It could be the Cam Sensor, but it could also be a bad Throttle Body or both. You are in a quandary, the cost of a throttle body is high, but the work is easy; however the Cam Sensor is the opposite.

[jason m]

I would suggest you replace the cam sensor and clear teh codes. I think you will find this is the only problem. Sensors can heat soak fail (fail when hot only) if you can get to the sensor with a blow dryer you can heat it up and if it fails you know you are right.

[AndyBees]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

It could be the Cam Sensor, but it could also be a bad Throttle Body or both. You are in a quandary, the cost of a throttle body is high, but the work is easy; however the Cam Sensor is the opposite.

Is there a test for the Camshaft Sensor? Seems it would be possible to test it as opposed to the Throttle Body?

Also, can someone give me a link or name of a parts source for the gasser engines.

Thanks

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[geniushanbiao]

I strongly suspect that the 5V supply is out. Check the 5V supply on the MAF sensor and CAM sensor connector according to Bentley.

Originally Posted by AndyBees

This 99 NB will basically start okay when the engine is cold and the engine will rev-up and drive. But, once it reaches full operating temp, the engine dies. It can be started, but it will only idle.

Here are the codes7 Faults Found:

00282 - Throttle Position Actuator (V60)
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal
P0341 - 35-00 - -
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
16506 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low
P0122 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338)
55-10 - Adaptation Not Successful - Intermittent
17988 - Throttle Actuator (Bank 1): Malfunction
P1580 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Using VCDS, I can erase the codes, but the Camshaft Position Sensor (G40), Implausible Signal code comes back immediately. The other codes will show-up again if the engine stalls or is cut-off and restarted.

Cleaning the MAF did not help.
The Coil checked Okay per the Bentley (nice blue spark).
Fuel pump cycles (I have not checked pressure).
New Spark plugs.
Engine has 161k miles on it.

Would you start by replacing the Camshaft sensor! Or can that thing be checked individually?

According to the Bentley, one item/sensor can begin to malfunction and cause others to throw codes.....where do you start?

..........comments and questions welcome!

[AndyBees]

Originally Posted by geniushanbiao

I strongly suspect that the 5V supply is out. Check the 5V supply on the MAF sensor and CAM sensor connector according to Bentley.

So, I suppose the 5 volt supply can be tested with multi-meter at the connectors? The diagrams in the chapters/sections on the AEG 2.0 gasoline engine doe not provide that info.

I have two Bentley Manuals, one specifically for the New Beetle (1998 thru 2002) that covers the 1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI and the 2.0 gasoline. That manual is almost useless. Example: on the 2.0 AEG engine, there is no identification of the Crankshaft speed sensor in the section on the fuel or ignition.......but it has one!

The other Bentley Manual (1999-2005) covers the 1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI and the 2.0 gasoline has far better info.

So, I would have to assume that the electrical schematics in the back of the manuals will provide the info I need to determine where that 5 volt source originates?

Is that asumption correct?

Well, the Cam Postion Sensor has been ordered and should be here by Monday or Tuesday!

[geniushanbiao]

Yes of course. There are many procedures how to test the MAF sensor on the internet that will tell you to test the 5V wire.

The crankshaft speed sensor is referred to engine speed sensor in Bentley and I don't think it's in the fuel/ignition chapter.

By the way, if you change the Camshaft sensor you have to replace the timing belt, as well as water pump at the same time. The timing belt can't be reused in most of the cases.

Originally Posted by AndyBees

So, I suppose the 5 volt supply can be tested with multi-meter at the connectors? The diagrams in the chapters/sections on the AEG 2.0 gasoline engine doe not provide that info.

I have two Bentley Manuals, one specifically for the New Beetle (1998 thru 2002) that covers the 1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI and the 2.0 gasoline. That manual is almost useless. Example: on the 2.0 AEG engine, there is no identification of the Crankshaft speed sensor in the section on the fuel or ignition.......but it has one!

The other Bentley Manual (1999-2005) covers the 1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI and the 2.0 gasoline has far better info.

So, I would have to assume that the electrical schematics in the back of the manuals will provide the info I need to determine where that 5 volt source originates?

Is that asumption correct?

Well, the Cam Postion Sensor has been ordered and should be here by Monday or Tuesday!

[AndyBees]

Originally Posted by geniushanbiao

Yes of course. There are many procedures how to test the MAF sensor on the internet that will tell you to test the 5V wire.

The crankshaft speed sensor is referred to engine speed sensor in Bentley and I don't think it's in the fuel/ignition chapter.

By the way, if you change the Camshaft sensor you have to replace the timing belt, as well as water pump at the same time. The timing belt can't be reused in most of the cases.

Well, it will be the owner's call in refernece to changing the TB and WP.

I've done lots and lots of TB jobs, more on Diesels than gassers.

I do have the Cam Sensor but it will be next week before I can get back to the job! I'll post results!

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by geniushanbiao

By the way, if you change the Camshaft sensor you have to replace the timing belt, as well as water pump at the same time. The timing belt can't be reused in most of the cases.

There is no technical reason to unless you consider the likelyhood of having to do the job again for either TB, WP or tensioner in the future. The TB has to be removed to get the cam wheel off but replacement depends on the mechanic.

[geniushanbiao]

Well I mean, unless the TB is almost new it's always a good idea to replace it whenever you take it off, considering the cost of labor compared with cost of parts. Also many references don't suggest you reuse the TB unless it's almost new because a reinstalled timing belt will have a shorter life than it's supposed to have and also you have to make sure the rotation direction during reinstallation.

Originally Posted by simonsi

There is no technical reason to unless you consider the likelyhood of having to do the job again for either TB, WP or tensioner in the future. The TB has to be removed to get the cam wheel off but replacement depends on the mechanic.

[AndyBees]

Yes, I am very familiar with TBs and re-using them. If the dude doesn't want to replace it, I'll certainly mark the direction of rotation before removing it.

Throttle Body Alignment.......... anyone do it?
Here is a link to Ross-Tech's web site with a little info on TBA and other comments.
Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by AndyBees

Yes, I am very familiar with TBs and re-using them. If the dude doesn't want to replace it, I'll certainly mark the direction of rotation before removing it.

Throttle Body Alignment.......... anyone do it?
Here is a link to Ross-Tech's web site with a little info on TBA and other comments.
Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki

I have done the adaptation, but I am not certain those steps noted in your link were the ones that I used. I will have to find my notes.

[geniushanbiao]

I always do the adaption whenever I erase the codes or disconnect the battery. Well I heard from some threads that you can do this by switching the key to ON, then VERY SLOWLY depress the gas pedal all the way to floor and then hold for 15 seconds(others say 10 seconds), then VERY SLOWLY release it then it's been adapted. I don't know whether this works.

BTW, I noticed that every time I do the TBA, before I do it when released the TPS reads around 5% and after it reads around 4%. Floored, before was around 77% and after it was 85%. So TBA is required though...

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

I have done the adaptation, but I am not certain those steps noted in your link were the ones that I used. I will have to find my notes.

[AndyBees]

Long overdue update

Problem solved! The Camshaft Sensor magnet had broken off and was "stuck" to the inside back of the CamShaft

The engine runs fine now!

I did do the Throttle Body Alignment, cleared all codes and test drove the vehicle that included several engine off and restarts.

It is not necessary to completely remove the Timing Belt to replace the CamShaft Sensor. Set engine at Top Dead Center (see timing mark thru hole at flywheel), remove the intake, remove the TB top cover (observe Timing mark on CamSprocket and Flywheel at Bell housing), remove the valve cover, loosen the TB tensioner (remove nut and washer), slide the TB off, remove the CamShaft (take CamSprocket off after CamShaft is out using impact gun), loosen two bolts holding CamShaft Sensor & remove, install new CamShaft Sensor, install CamShaft with new seal, install CamSprocket (with lock tight, Torque Bolt), slip TB back on, set tensioner (counterclockwise turn), and then replace all the other items! (Double check the CamShaft Time with Crankshaft at Flywheel.)

To those who gave advice, thanks very much!

I like TDIs much better!